91VX or VXL?

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I was told that VXL replaced the M-Series (M91VX). I believe the Oregon M-series chains had the hard chromed cutters, I could be wrong.
But Oregon has phased out all their M-series chains from my understanding.

I believe the M-series have thicker chrome, but never heard before that it was harder. Most chain cutters are chromed (not the carbide etc ones), and I believe all chrome is hard?

Also, it sounds really strange if the 91VXL replaced the M91VX, as their special features (over 91VX) isn't for the same purpose.
 
i run VXL on all my lo-pro stuff...best lo-pro out there. didnt even know what i was getting. ordered a roll of whatever was cheapest and non safety and never looked back. turned out to be VXL. we sell PX at work not a bad chain at all for the average person. but in no way shape or form anything like VXL or the stihl chain...but stick with the oregon stays sharper way longer. you look like pop eye after ur done filing the stihl chain while you could be singing along with the VXL
 
I concur. 90S is a bit faster than 61PMM3. However, I think that 63PS3 is the best thing going for small saws.

It is just that the sad "3" kills all exitement over the first chisel chan in 3/8" low profile. Even if it doesn't matter much for just crosscutting with short bars, that usually isn't the only thing you want do use with the saws that chain is suiteble for.
 
I believe the M-series have thicker chrome, but never heard before that it was harder.

As an Oregon rep told me, it is good for abrasive conditions - won't help you if you hit a rock.

From the Oregon website:

If you cut abrasive woods such as railroad ties, skidded wood, fire damaged areas, partially logged areas after a skidder, or any place where wood is dirty, we recommend you use the MultiCut versions of OREGON® chains. MultiCut chains have extra-heavy-duty chrome plating applied with an advanced plating process to withstand these kinds of tough, dirty conditions.

Philbert
 
As an Oregon rep told me, it is good for abrasive conditions - won't help you if you hit a rock.

From the Oregon website:



Philbert

Yes, that is what I have read!

An obvious consequense of the chrome being thicker is that the chain can't get as sharp.
 
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After a few sharpening` s,with the cutters 1/2 to 2/3rds shorter the VXL is one wicked cutting chain, although I`ve had good results from Windsor lp chain but as it`s all Blount owned it is probably similar[ I use Windsor as in my area it is available locally & is very reasonably priced
 
It is just that the sad "3" kills all exitement over the first chisel chan in 3/8" low profile. Even if it doesn't matter much for just crosscutting with short bars, that usually isn't the only thing you want do use with the saws that chain is suiteble for.

I know there's no way you'll believe this, but I'll write it anyway. Stihl "3" chain will bore cut respectably even with a small nose green reduced kickback bar. At the moment half my fleet is running "3" chain, and for the 45cc and under class it's just fine. However, I feel like my 50cc could benefit from a new loop of RS or PM.
 
I could be wrong as this is a very old photo I took now but this is Oregon 91VS vs Carlton N1. The Carlton cutters are a LOT longer. If I remember correctly the "L" designation indicated a longer cutter to match opposition chains such as N1 etc. I think the VX was the same length as the VS...

Oregon91VSagainstCarltonN13-8LP.jpg
 
I believe the M-series have thicker chrome, but never heard before that it was harder. Most chain cutters are chromed (not the carbide etc ones), and I believe all chrome is hard?

Also, it sounds really strange if the 91VXL replaced the M91VX, as their special features (over 91VX) isn't for the same purpose.

I think you're right about the chrome being thicker.
All I know is we've tried to order M91VX and they tell us it's now 91VXL.
Same with all M-series like M72, M73, etc. It's all under new names.
 
I could be wrong as this is a very old photo I took now but this is Oregon 91VS vs Carlton N1. The Carlton cutters are a LOT longer. If I remember correctly the "L" designation indicated a longer cutter to match opposition chains such as N1 etc. I think the VX was the same length as the VS...

Oregon91VSagainstCarltonN13-8LP.jpg

Is that my pic? I remember putting up one like it a long time ago.

I also scared this thread up from 4 years ago, and wonder if this site had anything to do with the vxl production, it would be good to know if anyone listens to the guys here.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/59697.htm
 
Is that my pic? I remember putting up one like it a long time ago.

I also scared this thread up from 4 years ago, and wonder if this site had anything to do with the vxl production, it would be good to know if anyone listens to the guys here.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/59697.htm

No not this one. I took this one not long after I joined AS to show the difference and why I wouldn't touch 91VS. It was one of the first photos I ever uploaded to Photobucket.
 
I could be wrong as this is a very old photo I took now but this is Oregon 91VS vs Carlton N1. The Carlton cutters are a LOT longer. If I remember correctly the "L" designation indicated a longer cutter to match opposition chains such as N1 etc. I think the VX was the same length as the VS...

Oregon91VSagainstCarltonN13-8LP.jpg

There is no doubt in my mind that you are 100,00% right about that. :msp_thumbsup:
 
I think you're right about the chrome being thicker.
All I know is we've tried to order M91VX and they tell us it's now 91VXL.
Same with all M-series like M72, M73, etc. It's all under new names.

Maybe VXL replaced VX after some time when both were sold, but it surely doesn't have the thicker chrome of the "M"-series chain.

VX chain does have one advantage over VXL, that may make the VX better suited in a few situations - it is lighter (when both are eqally new).
 
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Maybe VXL replaced VX after some time when both were sold, but it surely doesn't have the thicker chrome of the "M"-series chain.

VX chain does have one advantage over VXL, that may make the VX better suited in a few situations - it is lighter (when both are eqally new).

Looking at the Oregon web-site, both 91VX and 91VXL still are listed - so there hardly was any replacement going on, just a supplement in the selection! :msp_biggrin:
 
Ran my first loop of 91VXL on my CS-400 today and I am hooked. Cuts like butter and stays sharp longer than anything else I have used so far. I am getting quite a bit of binding though (and basically have had none previously with the cheap safety chains). Is that a consequence of the "non-safety" type chains or might I suddenly be doing something wrong? I am a total newbie to the chainsaw world, so pardon my ignorance on what may seem like simple subjects. I am very safety conscious though and read both the owners and safety manuals that came with the saw (as well as a lot of other material) before I got started. Anyway, great chain and if anyone has any input on the binding I am experiencing, would love to hear it.

Cheers
C
 
Some have said they find vxl chatters. When you say binding, do you mean the cutter is digging in and the saw can't handle it, or the chips are not clearing and the the chain clogs and loads up the saw too much? I haven't compared the back end of the vxl cutter with other LP chains but perhaps it's tighter there. Some have taken to filing/grinding the back end of the vxl cutters, presumably to help with chip clearance. I've never needed to though, but do have plans to take a new loop and cut a dry gum log, file the rakers down until I experience problems, then grind the back of the cutters and see what if anything, this does to relieve the problems.
 
Hey KiwiBro, thanks for the quick reply. The chips are clearing, no chain clog. Saw gets stuck in the wood. Maybe it is because it does not have enough power, but it happened about 10 times today in 10 minutes of actual cutting time. I have not yet muff modded my CS-400, but I know some of the cuts I was making were not in anything thick with zero possibility of binding from pinch and I had done similar cuts on the same wood with the other chains and had I think one binding in 7 tanks of gas on this saw. That said, the stuff I am cutting (iron wood of some variety) was dulling the other chains at an alarming rate (like 5 minutes of cut time and I would have to sharpen or change chains) so I will take the binding over sharpening every 5 minutes.

Let me know if more details/explanation would help and if you can think of anything I may be doing wrong that would cause such a situation.

Cheers!
C
 
There are a few gums with fibres that seem to cling to the bar and chain in the kerf. It's not like sap, just the cut fibres seem to expand in the kerf and stop the chain from spinning. If that's what's happening, I haven't really found a solution sorry, other than more torque and I did find skip tooth chain helped. If you mean the cutter is biting into the wood but not creating a chip or the chip isn't breaking off and the chain just grabs and stops, then all I can think of is to file the cutters without filing the rakers and this will help them take smaller bites.

Otherwise, hopefully someone with more experience will come along to help.
 

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