A fix for your shakin splitter(w pic's)

[michigander]

My splitter has the 9HP Robin Subaru motor on it. The motor when running about half throttle seemed to shake the whole splitter. The push plate would shake a lot on the beam. With a tip from Kevin J, I picked up 4 vibration isolators at Grainger Supply. Part #5XK44. The first picture shows how it used to be mounted, directly to frame. Second picture shows the motor removed and I had to drill the original holes from 3/8 to a 3/4 hole to install the two piece isolator. The frame where I drilled the holes was 1/4inch thick, with the size of the spacer in the middle of the isolator. If you had anything thinner you would have to take up some space with an extra 3/4 inch thick flat washer. I would think you could use these easily on up to 3/8 thick steel. The last picture shows the motor put back on top of isolators with longer bolts. There is a spacer in middle of isolator to keep from over tightening them down. I forgot to bring lock washers along with me. I might have to install longer bolts to put them on. I was very suprised when I started this up. It removed about almost all of the shake. I can live with what remains. The whole install only took about 45 min. It depends how you have your suction hooked up, it only raises your motor about 3/8 inch. You might have to readjust your inlet. Happy Splitting!

 

[Zodiac45]

Way too go. Be interesting too see if it fixes the problem. I think they all vibrate at certain rpm's. It's a sympathetic harmonic vibration issue. On mine, if I find it, I just change the throttle(frequency) till it stops. :greenchainsaw:

 

[cabinman]

isolaters

My splitter has the 9HP Robin Subaru motor on it. The motor when running about half throttle seemed to shake the whole splitter. The push plate would shake a lot on the beam. With a tip from Kevin J, I picked up 4 vibration isolators at Grainger Supply. Part #5XK44. The first picture shows how it used to be mounted, directly to frame. Second picture shows the motor removed and I had to drill the original holes from 3/8 to a 3/4 hole to install the two piece isolator. The frame where I drilled the holes was 1/4inch thick, with the size of the spacer in the middle of the isolator. If you had anything thinner you would have to take up some space with an extra 3/4 inch thick flat washer. I would think you could use these easily on up to 3/8 thick steel. The last picture shows the motor put back on top of isolators with longer bolts. There is a spacer in middle of isolator to keep from over tightening them down. I forgot to bring lock washers along with me. I might have to install longer bolts to put them on. I was very suprised when I started this up. It removed about almost all of the shake. I can live with what remains. The whole install only took about 45 min. It depends how you have your suction hooked up, it only raises your motor about 3/8 inch. You might have to readjust your inlet. Happy Splitting!

EVERYTHING,.. will last longer on your splitter now, Good update, E,J,

 

[cabinman]

holes

EVERYTHING,.. will last longer on your splitter now, Good update, E,J,

You should debur the holes so they dont chew the rubber, E,J,

 

[mga]

i use a vertical shaft engine, so i need it to remain aligned with the pump at all times. (pump is mounted separate of the engine)

but...not a bad idea at all.

on second thought, after looking at the pictures, your vibration might be more pronounced because you have the engine mounted on two different planes with nothing in between them. it looks like the front mount plate would allow vibration.

just my opinion.

 

[cabinman]

I agree

i use a vertical shaft engine, so i need it to remain aligned with the pump at all times. (pump is mounted separate of the engine)

but...not a bad idea at all.

on second thought, after looking at the pictures, your vibration might be more pronounced because you have the engine mounted on two different planes with nothing in between them. it looks like the front mount plate would allow vibration.

just my opinion.

MGA, I agree, the single bar stock cross member should be braced, adding more control,. As far as the verticle engines, they offer the same bell housing as the horz engines, E,J,

 

[mga]

MGA, I agree, the single bar stock cross member should be braced, adding more control,. As far as the verticle engines, they offer the same bell housing as the horz engines, E,J,

there were no mounting holes on my B/S engine to mount a pump adapter so, i had to rig my own mounts. my pump is separate from the engine and the only thing connecting them is the love joy couplings. remember, it came off a lawn tractor, so they only tapped engine mount holes.

but, i think if he beefed up that front plate most of his vibration issues would be gone.

 

[cabinman]

there were no mounting holes on my B/S engine to mount a pump adapter so, i had to rig my own mounts. my pump is separate from the engine and the only thing connecting them is the love joy couplings. remember, it came off a lawn tractor, so they only tapped engine mount holes.

but, i think if he beefed up that front plate most of his vibration issues would be gone.

No, I didnt realize it was a lawn mower engine, Got it E,J,

 

[michigander]

I am very happy the way it is right now. I dont think I will change a thing. Even if I had the braces previous, I think it would have still shook. It might be able to help it a little more, maybe I can put the brace on when I paint it this summer. Maybe! Thanks for the tip! Michigander