A saw filing question

[Lewis Brander]

To Derek:

Hi Derek. I don't know how to do the quote thing unless I import the whole message or thread, but you basically said the same thing I did by using a 7/32 (.219") file on 3/8 chain and after the tooth is worn down to go to 13/64 (.203") file. I usually switch size after abut 2/3rds of the tooth is gone.

As far as raker clearance I maintain the same raker clearance that I'm comfortable with through out the life of the chain. Checked after I'm done filling the chain. I figure that as the chain wears (or is filed) down and the tooth lenght is shorter and the width narrower, there should be a bit less drag on the chain ( but who really cares). So I keep the raker height the same, but probably could lower it, but why would I. If you lower the raker height, the bigger the bie of the tooth, thus more wood in the channel to try and clear out which I figure leads to problems such as creating more heat and inefficientcy, especially for smaller cubed saws.

These are JMO's and not trying to critisize anyone's thinking or start a chitfight. I value everyone's opinion here. There's alot of knowledge here. I've read a lot of threads and other materials on chain sharpening, some I can see and understand and some raises more questions than ansures.. I'm by no means an expert or pretend to be. OK, talk later. Lewis.

 

[Stumper]

Derek, Carlton is definitely independent. Oregon owns Windsor. I used to start with a 7/32 and finish the last half with a 3/16ths. I've started using 13/64ths to start. Both work.

 

[Derek]

Originally posted by Stumper
Derek, Carlton is definitely independent. Oregon owns Windsor. I used to start with a 7/32 and finish the last half with a 3/16ths. I've started using 13/64ths to start. Both work.

I smell a "conspericy" reps must be getting more commission from selling windsor chains!!

Thanks for clearing that up, the rest is as clear as mud


Hey Lewis, mabey I was confussing you with the "more bite" I ment the tree not the chain, and your right you do go down in size 5.5mm to 5.2 mm..Rakres are a funny thing, I have to have them just right on a climbing saw..
I tend to use the back side of the saw alot, if the rakers are down to much, it "chatters" away at the wood..

Im a bit greedy with the 088, i tend not to use a raker gauge on a chain ( more than half gone) I file them to eye, dead flat, wait till its the same "shine" as the last one ,and continue..
( the last stroke I put a litte "antikick back" on it)[ie roll the end down]


I love the way it sucks you in to the wood, it still spits it out just fine (IOM)...
You have some interesting points on the chip escape..

In my ripping days (posts) i used the 88 with a 12'' bar, 10 degree cutting angle, no side cover, and no rakers (barly) at all.

When the chain got down a little i would take the rest of the raker off with an angle grinder....How I dident kill my self , I''never know..But did cut 200 a day, looked like a jet ski with the 10' strips it sent out!!

BTW just C& P the bits you wont to quote, while your replying..
By Lewis
"Hi Derek. I don't know how to do the quote thing unless I import the whole message or thread"...like that!!

Art sums it up well.

Art Wrote:
"There has been so many threads about filing chisel bit chain and about all the different angles, beaks, hooks positive slopes, negative slopes, gullets, rakers, depth gauges, inside side plates, top outside plates, etc. When you add to that all the different opinions, types of wood, plunge cuts, boring cuts, kickbacks, undercuts, Dutchmen, hingewood, etc. it's no wonder that so many people are confused.

Personaly I cant wait to get to one of these climbing comps over there, Ill get to see someone eles sharpin a chain, somthing else that I dont see real often..

That info from ART came from "Art Martin, will the real logger please stand up", Its way toward the end...Have fun looking at the pics while your there.. Keep posting your thoughts on it...Derek..

 

[ballonknott]

Treeco, who knows what he's talking about, but a set figure will not work for all applications. How your chain feeds in the wood is how you should gauge your raker height. Everything makes a variable, size of saw, wood, bar lenght, ect. So trial and error is your best bet, and that becomes the experience you need to make things work the best.

 

[stihltech]

file

13/64 has always been the correct file for a Stihl 3/8 chain. As far as a work chain, Stihl will out last, IMHO.

I go by my customers comments. Stihl lasts longest, Oregon easier to file. I tested this theory by giving some operators a 13/64 Stihl file. All reported the chained filed much easier and lasted longer. Then they went back to Oregon.
Why?
They can buy cheap files to sharpen it.

Go figure.

 

[John Ellison]

I am sure not a saw racer, but for me, cutting i.e. working in this area, angles much sharper than those such as sug. in the Madsens diaghram just dont last. I like em toward the sharper end instead of the "stay sharp" end, but I dont want to have to touch up the chain every time that I limb a tree. I am sure it all depends on what you are going to cut, how long you expect the edge to last and how much time you are willing toput into it.

John