Abraded Axe Handles

[Chris-PA]

I split my wood mostly with axes with wooden handles. That's how I like to do it and I will continue to. I've replaced a lot of axe handles over the years, and I've gotten quite good at setting them properly so they do not loosen. Usually I can swing accurately enough that I don't break them. However, the biggest problem I have is that over time they get abraded away right below the head. I've tried wrapping them with fitted pieces of stove pipe and other methods to act a as a shield, but these did not hold up well.

Does anyone else have this problem? If not, maybe it's just something I'm doing wrong. If so, have you found a solution? This is what kills most of my handles - if I could find a way to prevent it they would last a lot longer. Plus, I hate swinging an axe that looks like heck.

 

[Fifelaker]

Wrap with rope then duct tape is what I did. When worn tear off and redo.

 

[Chris-PA]

Wrap with rope then duct tape is what I did. When worn tear off and redo.

I had considered that, but I never wanted to get duct tape stickum all over it!:msp_biggrin: I also considered wrapping copper wire around in a tight bundle, but I never figured out how to terminate it.

 

[Fifelaker]

The duct tape stays on the rope.

 

[les-or-more]

I had considered that, but I never wanted to get duct tape stickum all over it!:msp_biggrin: I also considered wrapping copper wire around in a tight bundle, but I never figured out how to terminate it.

How about a light switch?:msp_tongue:

 

[Fifelaker]

How many amps would this electric pull with a 100' cord?

 

[Deets066]

I'm an ironworker so I use a 8lb beater a lot. I wrap tiewire (for rebar) around it and then friction tape. To wrap tiewire make a long skinny loop with long dead end. Run vertical or with the handle, make the loop as long as you want your wraps to be. Wrap the wire tightly around handle and over top of the loop, when you get to the top run the wire through the loop and cut it leaving an inch sticking through. Now on the bottom of the wraps use pliers and pull the dead end of the loop which will tighten up the top. Now wrap tightly with friction tape, if you don't have any... buy some it works better than anything else.

hope this makes sense, it works great for me.

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm an ironworker so I use a 8lb beater a lot. I wrap tiewire (for rebar) around it and then friction tape. To wrap tiewire make a long skinny loop with long dead end. Run vertical or with the handle, make the loop as long as you want your wraps to be. Wrap the wire tightly around handle and over top of the loop, when you get to the top run the wire through the loop and cut it leaving an inch sticking through. Now on the bottom of the wraps use pliers and pull the dead end of the loop which will tighten up the top. Now wrap tightly with friction tape, if you don't have any... buy some it works better than anything else.

hope this makes sense, it works great for me.

Thanks - that sounds like what I'm looking for. Now I'm going to have some beer and read that over until I understand it properly.:msp_unsure:

 

[rwoods]

You need a heavier metal shield than stove pipe. I don't know how to attach it but if you're good at changing handles I am sure you can figure it out. I am not a very good aim but I have used one of these for years and haven't broken a handle yet (I have broke more handles on my 8# maul than I care to remember - it uses a sledge hammer handle so it is none too big and doesn't have room for reinforcement - it usually breaks off even with the head):

Ron

 

[fdoberman]

3 or 4" long piece of radiator hose works well and lasts quite a while.
Worst case if you have to install with the handle in place use some Gorilla Glue between the hose & handle, slit the hose, and tack it in place with small box nails or carpet tacks.