Accurately Measuring Tree Height

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Yes! I was just going to go look this up! Nice find.. This video seemed pretty well presented & accurate to his theory.. I haven't been able to try it yet though... ***wishing this snow away isn't working***
Just watched this actually. However what happens if the surface area around the tree and where I want to make sure it is going (or not going) is not level? For example this tree is at the bottom of a very steep hill. I am going to fell it on flat level ground but if it does fall the wrong direction (towards home) it will be going up an extremely steep hill near the house. I guess I could use the "Stick Trick" on the level part of the ground and then measure how far that distance is. Then carry the measuring tape up the hill and see how close to the house it is.
 
I guess I could use the "Stick Trick" on the level part of the ground and then measure how far that distance is. Then carry the measuring tape up the hill and see how close to the house it is.

Will there ya go.. You answered your own question..

What was the issue with climbing & piecing down? What do you mean, to big without equipment?
 
Will there ya go.. You answered your own question..

What was the issue with climbing & piecing down? What do you mean, to big without equipment?

Well the height of the trunk is pretty large. For example I am 5'10" and if I jump beside the tree as high as I can I would not even come close to the first limb. It is all one solid piece until you get pretty high up. So I would need to sort of lasso a rope up around one of these limbs to even start getting in the tree. Basically it would be a huge pain. I have pieced down a few trees before and I am guessing you have as well... my opinion is it is not fun... I will continue to do it when I need to, but in this instance it would definitely be the worst I have ever dealt with.

The ones I did before I just climbed up in them and started sawing with no climbing equipment. I would imagine that for this instance I would have to purchase some climbing equipment and get acquainted with it. Which is not a bad idea I just do not want to start my climbing career (if I ever do) with this particular project. I would rather start out in a smaller tree closer to someones house. One that I know I could handle and would not be dropping any limbs on their house.

My rules are I will not drop or even rope down a limp if it could potentially cause (by dropping) any property damage and I will not go near a project that I think may damage property (felling a large tree). This one is different because I am certain it will not make it to the house. Just there is that tiny curl in my stomach that is telling me to be safe and not screwed in the @$$ later...
 
So basically I knew that this time would come and need a way to deal with it. This is also a good time for practice on any "tricks" or skills needed to estimate where it will fall. Because I am probably going to find that it is like a massive 50 feet away from the house or something but if I found that it was around 10 feet since I do not a lot of experience with any of these methods I would probably just pass. So if I am ever in doubt again I can measure and know my limits.
 
Oh.. My bad man. I thought you had spikes & what not.. Yeah, getting up into a tree with out that type of stuff isn't something I would suggest.. especially swinging a saw around.. Wood is a funny creature, it can do odd things that will jamm u up bad when in the tree. Especially if you aren't tied in when it does, well.. that's not going to be a fun experience. In not preaching here but, no insurance, climbing with no gear?? Phew... Count your blessing man, I think were only allowed so many.

Now without contradicting what I just said, if I was in your shoes & was concerned about where it was going to land, I would climb it without plans to cut (in other words just you, no saw), get a rope in it some how and use a winch of sorts to pull it over. How do you get in it to do so? Use a ladder, a truck or something you can stand on.

Oh wait.. I just re-read something... I'm confused.. Are you saying the first limb is 10ft high & no other limbs until it gets up there? In other words nothing to climb after the first limb until the top?

If it is unclimbable without gear, you could always try one of those sling shots to set a line. Just make sure you wrap the trunk. Shoot it through one side, go grab it & send it back the other way, use a running bowline & cinch it up.

As far as property damage goes, obviously miss the house.. But your always going to have damage to the turf if your dropping it in full spread on a lawn. Homeowners need to expect that or have it explained before hand.

Regardless of all the above, take it on man, it's the only way you will learn. Definitely get yourself some gear pronto! Maybe just some simple rigging equipment, a saddle & set of spikes. Before you know it you dislike of rigging trees down will be in the past & you'll be able to take more jobs as you won't have to worry about room to lay it out. Eventually you'll laugh at the stuff you thought was risky.

Honestly though, if you want some good advice on rigging it down or risks involved, take a few pictures of it & post them up. It's hard to comprehend the job without seeing it.
 
Oh.. My bad man. I thought you had spikes & what not.. Yeah, getting up into a tree with out that type of stuff isn't something I would suggest.. especially swinging a saw around.. Wood is a funny creature, it can do odd things that will jamm u up bad when in the tree. Especially if you aren't tied in when it does, well.. that's not going to be a fun experience. In not preaching here but, no insurance, climbing with no gear?? Phew... Count your blessing man, I think were only allowed so many.

Now without contradicting what I just said, if I was in your shoes & was concerned about where it was going to land, I would climb it without plans to cut (in other words just you, no saw), get a rope in it some how and use a winch of sorts to pull it over. How do you get in it to do so? Use a ladder, a truck or something you can stand on.

Oh wait.. I just re-read something... I'm confused.. Are you saying the first limb is 10ft high & no other limbs until it gets up there? In other words nothing to climb after the first limb until the top?

If it is unclimbable without gear, you could always try one of those sling shots to set a line. Just make sure you wrap the trunk. Shoot it through one side, go grab it & send it back the other way, use a running bowline & cinch it up.

As far as property damage goes, obviously miss the house.. But your always going to have damage to the turf if your dropping it in full spread on a lawn. Homeowners need to expect that or have it explained before hand.

Regardless of all the above, take it on man, it's the only way you will learn. Definitely get yourself some gear pronto! Maybe just some simple rigging equipment, a saddle & set of spikes. Before you know it you dislike of rigging trees down will be in the past & you'll be able to take more jobs as you won't have to worry about room to lay it out. Eventually you'll laugh at the stuff you thought was risky.

Honestly though, if you want some good advice on rigging it down or risks involved, take a few pictures of it & post them up. It's hard to comprehend the job without seeing it.

I was just thinking the same about the pictures. I guess I could stop by sometime and snap a quick picture or two. About the height climbing stuff you had it right the first time. After I can reach the first limb I guess I would have more movement through it. I will have to try and get a picture of it. I am thinking about waiting to see if she is 100% serious about having it taken out. I know she wants it removed but better make sure before I take it any further.
 
Do your height measurement where the ground is level from the tree (cross the slope). Once you know the height of the tree, you can then measure that distance up the hill toward the house.

I get the impression that the house is 90* to where you want to fall it, but you are afraid the tree is going to spin toward the house. If this is the case, then you need to learn about hinges, wedges and rope.

Lots of information on the net describing how to define your hinge, undercuts, back cuts, use of wedges etc.

Best one I know of is the Worksafe BC Falling Manual
http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati.../assets/pdf/bc_faller_training_standard_1.pdf
http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati.../assets/pdf/bc_faller_training_standard_2.pdf
 
Like I said I have done very, very well in the past by making sure to not take jobs that are liabilities.
You're felling trees with a chainsaw.... every job you take is gonna have inherent liability. Play it safe, measure using the stick method and use the Tree Fall Zone (TFZ) or 1.5 x tree height.
 
If the accuracy or application of your instrument is in question, perhaps you know someone who surveys. A basic transit is much more reliable than the processes mentioned, however I have had good results with the stick trick. Remember when looking to the horizontal point, that is the point on the tree where the cut is made. If you are up hill or down hill you still must sight horizontal/level and add or subtract to adjust to your actual cutting point. Sorry if I made it sound confusing.
 
I am sure all of you guy-es techniques and formulas are really good and work swell though they hurt my brain. I just move around the jobsite, looking and feeling to get an idea of what will fit where. As far as actually knowing the exact height of a tree is to much work to obtain since after a while of doing this work you automatically start knowing heights of the trees just when you walk up to one.

Hey, if you need to get a point from which to judge because you are a newby then go ahead and figure out the formula or get a scope ( which would be cool anyway) but don't get caught out there with a protractor, jeez, what a field day.

100 feet looks and is very high but laying on the ground isn't that long.

Also some people look at 65 feet high and think its 125.
 
100 feet looks and is very high but laying on the ground isn't that long.

Also some people look at 65 feet high and think its 125.

Very true!

but don't get caught out there with a protractor, jeez, what a field day.

Hahahaha! Um..Um..Yes... I...I...I believe you have my stapler..

Great Scott Marty! 1.21 Gigawatts!!
 
So you do tree removal for a living?
Questionably equipped, questionably trained, can't afford insurance. Hope OP isn't one of the reasons arborist insurance is so expensive. I am not throwing stones, Fox, just confirming the need to be very careful. Carefully Climbing, limbing, and topping with proper equipment and skills are the right way to handle a questionable tree. I actually passed an "Arborist" in a subdivision falling a large pine after Gustaf. Just from intuition I did not like his front cut and the height of the tree. I stopped and offered to climb, limb, and top it for him, but he insisted on doing it "His" way. It cost him all his profits for a week of hard work to repair the drive way and a mail box. Yes, a large limb from the pine went all the way through the concrete of the drive way. I have also seen trees "Throw" broken limbs out in front of them as they hit the ground, damaging such things as windows further out than their height. And of course, as you guessed, most of the methods described in this thread depend on a level sighting plane, but also a good field of view. If there is a tall limb or spar on the back side of the tree that you do not see when you use the "Stick Trick", hidden by parallax, it can reach farther than you estimate.
 
I have also seen trees "Throw" broken limbs out in front of them as they hit the ground, damaging such things as windows further out than their height. If there is a tall limb or spar on the back side of the tree that you do not see when you use the "Stick Trick", hidden by parallax, it can reach farther than you estimate.
Word.
 
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