Added the auger to owb stack

[brenndatomu]

every time I read one of these threads I am thinking energy hogs deluxe. Someone must make one that isn't a woodgas guzzler.

They do, gassifiers. But they work best with heat storage (large insulated tank) so that they can be fired up and run wide open until out of wood. That just works better indoors, although there are a few outdoors models made. A lot of people just don't wanna fool with all that. The people that do go to the trouble seem to LOVE 'em though

 

[Poston5]

With a gasifier you need smaller wood and it also needs to be seasoned. Seasoned wood isn't always an option.

 

[Steve Horn]

Something I thought of... I notice that when the fire is really roaring the 6" diameter hole for the chimney looks like a vacuum sucking up the heat and flame. What if you added a section of pipe (say 4" long) that stuck down into the firebox from the chimney? I'm hypothesizing the effect would be that the heat that travels to the top of the box would not have a direct path through to the chimney and would then absorb more heat into the water jacket. The downside is you would have to use more caution when filling.

Thoughts?

 

[H-Ranch]

Something I thought of... I notice that when the fire is really roaring the 6" diameter hole for the chimney looks like a vacuum sucking up the heat and flame. What if you added a section of pipe (say 4" long) that stuck down into the firebox from the chimney? I'm hypothesizing the effect would be that the heat that travels to the top of the box would not have a direct path through to the chimney and would then absorb more heat into the water jacket. The downside is you would have to use more caution when filling.

Thoughts?

I think several commercial manufacturers do something along those lines. I had the same thoughts when I built mine to maximize heat and minimize smoke and sparks. With the baffle and the extended pipe it's probably 16" below the top of the firebox:

 

[Dogsout]

Just so I am understanding right your firebox exhaust directly up to the chimney? If this is the case I would suspect that you draft heat out of your chimney at a great rate. This set up would not work for me as my exhaust exits through 11 tubes that go front to back through the water jacket then to the chimney. I have a bunch more area to steal heat before it leaves the OWB, but it cools fast when it goes up the chimney (Note I do have a draft fan that kicks on and off to maintain water temp). With this in mind if I tried to slow the gases exiting the burner up the chimney I would have such a creosote mess I probably would not be able to pull the auger out of the stack.

 

[ziggo_2]

Seems like it could be a PITA to clean.

FWIW, it seems like a bandage applied to a situation where a barometric damper is needed to limit draft.

If you had the motor still attached to the auger you could just turn it on and it will clean itself. . . lol

 

[Whitespider]

...or you could get the thing crankin' and burn the stack out to clean it.
Can ya' see it?? Twenty foot flames and smoke belching like a pile of burnin' rubber.
*

 

[Poston5]

Something I thought of... I notice that when the fire is really roaring the 6" diameter hole for the chimney looks like a vacuum sucking up the heat and flame. What if you added a section of pipe (say 4" long) that stuck down into the firebox from the chimney? I'm hypothesizing the effect would be that the heat that travels to the top of the box would not have a direct path through to the chimney and would then absorb more heat into the water jacket. The downside is you would have to use more caution when filling.

Thoughts?

Sounds like a plan. Try it out and let me know if you think it works. When we built my buddies we turned down a 90 on the exhaust side to make the smoke/heat go down to exit. The flame hits the top of the firebox and then gets sucked down to the inlet of the 90 and then exit. He has a lot of stove pipe and has a great draft since it is so high. He uses the hardy h4 fan on his boiler.