Adding electric start to wood splitter...

[Billy_Bob]

I'm having an electric start added to my wood splitter. It is a 34 ton with a 10.5 OHV B&S engine.

I've had too many "kickbacks" when trying to start it. And when it kicks back when pulling on the starting cable, it does so with a LOT of force. So much so that I was worried I might break a finger or something...

Well I poked around on the internet and darned if there were a lot of stories of people being injured by starting large engines like this. Some broke fingers or bones in their hand/arm.

I am starting the engine per the directions, pulling slowly till it gets to a compression stroke, then returning cable to reel, then pulling with a fast stroke. But it still kicks back sometimes.

Adding the electric start will cost around $400.00, but I figure this will be a LOT less than medical bills if I break something.

 

[beerman6]

I'm with ya on that.I'd like to do the same thing.2 things I do to help reduce the kickback.

The night before I'm going to use it I slap a magnetic block heater on the hyd. tank to warm up the oil.

Bungee the hyd. valve handle in the down position.

It helps a little.Once it's running I dont shut it off till every piece is split.

 

[046]

to avoid kickback .... do it the old starting Harley method

slowly crank your engine until it's set at top of compression stroke
then give a mighty kick.... err ... pull

it's MUCH less likely to kickback when started this way!

doing it wrong on a old Harley means getting thrown over the handlebars

 

[Wirenut2266]

If you go through with this, sweeet. Also, At this point I would add a charger/rectifier assembly if that engine will allow, I'll assume it would. Then at same time it is keeping battery charged and warm in winter, you can also add a lighting kit! You may not split at night, but lights may stiill be nice to have!

 

[Patrick62]

Momentum

Think about it like the old farm tractors of yesteryear.
With those things you turned the engine backwards until you found the compression stoke. Then with ALL your might spin the flywheel forward and it might be enough.... -bang- thump, thump -bang-

Anyway I always grab the rope and giving a stiff yank, The momentum (energy) stored in the flywheel will help carry it over compression and possibly start. When you "sneak" up on one you run the risk of the ignition firing off the cylinder BEFORE top dead center. Resulting in the engine going in reverse as high speed with your arm attached to the pull rope.
You can't win that battle!

-Pat

 

[drivadesl]

I have an 11 HP Honda generator, pull start. I wanted to add electric start to it, but I was told by Honda the E-start models had a different flywheel so it wasn't worth it cost wise. Not a problem with the honda, it pretty much starts in a couple pulls. So for my wood splitter I made sure to get an e-start up front and it is a pleasure to use. This is a 12 HP B&S and it starts right up, though I don't have more than 30 hours on it. I can pull start it to, but the e-start is the way to go upwards of 8 HP engines IMHO.

 

[gink595]

This is funny, I just acquired a 11hp Briggs from a friend that came out of a riding mower vert. shaft, it has all the electric start crap on it. I'm going to use it on my log splitter I just want to get the pull starter for it, and forget about batteries, starters, solenoids, switches, rectifers and all that garbage

 

[Wirenut2266]

HHMMM......That is kinda funny. One wants latest and greatest, one wants old school....Me, I love old school everything I do. Less is more they say.............