Adding weight to the x27?

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blkcloud

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Got my new x27 in monday, its a really nice well made splitter, I split about half a load of hackberry yesterday with it, everything went smooth.. no problems, I havent quite figured out the "wrist snap" but that will come..I split some with round house blows, some with the chopping motion and some with the angle chop.. the only thing I would like better is if the head was a wee bit heavier..(i think) have any of you added weight or though about it or should I just leave it alone.. I'm one of those types that has to start working on everything I buy as soon as I get it..lol.. thanks!
 
I have owned my x-27 since june of 2011 and have split well over 10 cords with.

I am 6 foot tall and have had great results with the splitter just swinging naturally.

Dont over think it, let the tool do the work
 
I bought my x27 for among other reasons, the light weight. I suppose you could put a lead filled collar around the head end of the handle, and I suppose you could put a pair of back doors on a Corvette if you wanted to.
 
Got my new x27 in monday, its a really nice well made splitter, I split about half a load of hackberry yesterday with it, everything went smooth.. no problems, I havent quite figured out the "wrist snap" but that will come..I split some with round house blows, some with the chopping motion and some with the angle chop.. the only thing I would like better is if the head was a wee bit heavier..(i think) have any of you added weight or though about it or should I just leave it alone.. I'm one of those types that has to start working on everything I buy as soon as I get it..lol.. thanks!

It's heavy enough. I'd say get used to the different swing first, then you won't really want the extra weight.

Dont over think it, let the tool do the work

Good advice for many different "situations".....:D
 
It is all about technique with the x27. I have had great luck using a low stump as a base and placing the round as it grew(top side up) and working around the sides first, removing all the splits with bark and then working the middle. This technique works for me as I sell the perfect (no bark) perfect looking pieces as vanity wood for the weekender that wants a few clean pieces for a romance fire or as a decoration on their porch. At $100 a pallet for ash and $150 for oak, I'm not complaining, they get wood with no crumbs and I burn the rest in my shop.
 
Got my new x27 in monday, its a really nice well made splitter, I split about half a load of hackberry yesterday with it, everything went smooth.. no problems, I havent quite figured out the "wrist snap" but that will come..I split some with round house blows, some with the chopping motion and some with the angle chop.. the only thing I would like better is if the head was a wee bit heavier..(i think) have any of you added weight or though about it or should I just leave it alone.. I'm one of those types that has to start working on everything I buy as soon as I get it..lol.. thanks!

maybe a lb..but..not needed either. You get the same results once your muscles and muscle memory switch from heavy maul swings to much faster splitting axe swings. Speed works better with this style axe. There really isn't much brute force needed. And swing straight overhead for most strikes, not off to the side like with a maul.

Really, once you get your speed up faster and get the techniques better, your production volume will increase and the effort level will drop even more.

IMO, fiskars is amazing when you first try it, and after a few cords it gets better. Almost like breaking in a new saw.
 
Kinetic Energy = 1/2 (Mass) (Velocity)[SUP]2[/SUP]

so, if you can just swing it faster, you'll be doing more good than increasing the weight, which is likely going to slow down your swing, or at least require more effort out of you!
 
I think you need to weld an additional X27 head to the one you have -doubling the weight - be kind of like stacking diesel performance chips/programmers :rock: ......... hmm bet I know where an extra x27 is just for this.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
If they only sold them in the U.S. :mad:

Or I had a few thousand dollars to spare to start a grey market importing business for them :D

We have overseas/ European and elsewhere members here. See if one of those guys would get you one and ship it here. I'd like one, too ,just not at this time, buck$$$. Same with a leveraxe, which I would like to try first over a splatterhammer.

And who knows, Fiskars reads these threads. when the first SS came out, guys were saying "I'd get one IF it had a 36" handle..a year and small change later, on the market in the US.

Here's mine ...hey fiskars, original SS designed head, narrow, like a splitting wedge, not flared like a chopping axe, around 1/2 lb heavier, bevelled and rounded wedge wings, no sharp corners, angled in a little more towards the handle, say 5 degrees more, 30" handle. Not 28, not 36, 30.

I want it angled in because a swing is always an arc, it is isn't straight up and down like a guillotine. make it angled, it will strike and enter the wood surface straighter most of the time. (the way I do it, this is just my personal wish list) This will transfer splitting shock uniformly. This is for splitting on a short block.

Call it the supersplit compact magnum.....make the sharpener built into the handle carrier somehow...
 
Count me in for a +1 on what Zogger said. x27 handle with the original SS head. Call it the something like "x1776" or "x76" for sale in the US only.
 
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