Advantages to using same chain on all saws?

[doubletrouble]

I have not tried a 3/8lp on the Timberpro yet but so far I am very happy with the way it cuts using the .325 Oregon chain. I think the 3/8lp may be a bit on the small side since I run a 20" and a 24" bar on that saw.

 

[NSEric]

I find my timberpro front heavy with the 20 inch bar, it balances nicely with the normal 16 inch bar or 18 inch light weight speed cut bar.
I'd never run a 24 on such a small saw, its basicly a 50 cc saw both size and power wise, its not a 60cc class saw at all.

 

[KiwiBro]

261, 7900, 395. All 3/8. One chain roll, one type of straps/ties. Simple is good.

 

[Colt Marlington]

I'd put 3/8lp on the timberpro.
Stihl 025 3/8 lp bars fit the Chinese saws but you may need a link longer chain. I have a 14 inch stihl bar on the 52cc Chinese saw but needed a 52 link chain not a 50 like the stihl spec's. I could've ground the end of the bar down a bit and made the shorter chain fit if I wanted to but had a bunch of 52 link lp chains so I didn't bother. I also drilled the oil hole out a bit so it oils better, the cheap Chinese bar had a tiny oil hole. The 3/8 lp poulan bars will fit the timberpro as well if you drill a oil hole in it, I had one on my 52 for a bit but the stihl bar has a larger tip which holds up better and throws the chain less.
My ported 52cc Chinese saw which will spank the stock timberpro cuts faster with 3/8lp than .325 and the chains only cost half as much too.

I paid five bucks a piece for my last two .325 Oregon chains.

I have both 20" regular .325, and 18" narrow kerf.

Kinda makes it hard to switch until I run out of good .325 chains. But I wouldn't mind trying a 3/8lp on my 50cc Echo....some day. A 16" pro-lite might be real nice.

 

[doubletrouble]

NCEric, I'm not sure which saw you have but mine seems to do pretty well for what it is. Granted it may not run as well as a name brand 62cc saw but we mainly cut Ash around here. It seems to go through it pretty well with a 20". I also had the 24" on once and cut into oak just to see how she did. It did struggle a little but if I didn't try to force it she did ok. That was with the cheap China chain even. Don't know how it'll do with a decent 24" chain.
This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway since I'm not in the garage to check myself, will a 3/8lp run on a standard 3/8 setup?

 

[doubletrouble]

BTW, Eric. I don't know if you've modded yours at all. I discovered a while back that mine had a very restrictive cat muffler on it. I changed it out for a non cat. That seemed to help quite a bit. Definitely a noticable difference.

 

[Wyrdman]

Makes it a little easier sharpening. only need one file size. only need one grinding wheel.

 

[farmer steve]

NCEric, I'm not sure which saw you have but mine seems to do pretty well for what it is. Granted it may not run as well as a name brand 62cc saw but we mainly cut Ash around here. It seems to go through it pretty well with a 20". I also had the 24" on once and cut into oak just to see how she did. It did struggle a little but if I didn't try to force it she did ok. That was with the cheap China chain even. Don't know how it'll do with a decent 24" chain.
This may be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway since I'm not in the garage to check myself, will a 3/8lp run on a standard 3/8 setup?

will not work DT.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

All my climbing saws run 3/8 lp 42 to 62cc huskys are on 18 inch 325 and my 361's, 440's, 460's, 660's and 661's are running on 22 inch 3/8. Keeps it really simple.

 

[KiwiBro]

All my climbing saws run 3/8 lp 42 to 62cc huskys are on 18 inch 325 and my 361's, 440's, 460's, 660's and 661's are running on 22 inch 3/8. Keeps it really simple.

Well paint me stoopider because having three different chains, sets of strap and ties, two different grinding wheels isn't what this amoeba considers "really simple". Piss poor planning would lead me to having to shorten a 3/8 loop on site but only finding .325 straps, or needing to make up another .325 loop but only finding rolls of LP or 3/8, or leaving my thinner grinding wheel behind, etc. I think I've done all those things in the past and decided to compromise a bit of performance to keep it my version of really simple.

But horses for courses, and I don't climb. Loved LP but love super simple even more.

 

[NSEric]

BTW, Eric. I don't know if you've modded yours at all. I discovered a while back that mine had a very restrictive cat muffler on it. I changed it out for a non cat. That seemed to help quite a bit. Definitely a noticable difference.

I did a whole thread on porting mine lol. I also did a few videos.
My timberpro turns 12000 rpm in the cut with a .325 chain and 8 tooth sprocket, stock it was 8000-9000 rpm with a 7 tooth.
The saw will pull a 24 inch bar/chain ok it just feels wrong as the saw is small and balances nicely with a 16 inch bar. These are bored out 50 cc saws, treat it like one and you will be happy, no one runs over 20 inch bars on 50cc saws.
Here's my latest vid.

 

[NSEric]

To put 3/8lp on my 52cc Chinese saw I bought a 3/8 rim sprocket, there is no 3/8 lp rim sprocket for these saws, the regular 3/8 one works fine.
Then I bought a 3/8 lp stihl 025, 180,etc bar, I like short bars so I got the 14, im running a 52 link Oregon chain not the 50 link the bar came with, I have a bunch of these as that's what my old poulan ran. You can get a 16 inch 3/8 lp bar with 3 chains for 25 bucks on aliexpress, they have rim sprockets too, they're a couple bucks.

 

[doubletrouble]

NSEric, looks like I spoke to soon. I didn't realize you had souch experience with a Timberpro. I found your thread on porting it. Sounds real good in the vid you posted. How long has it been since all the mods? Is it holding up to the rpm well? I though I saw somewhere that the bearings we're a weak spot. Not sure where I read that though. I will go back and re-read your build thread. I don't need mine to be quite what you have but I wouldn't mind a little more grunt from it.
I run a 20" on mine mainly because that's what it came with, I replaced the original with an Oregon bar/chain combo of the same size. I rarely run the 24" bar since I really don't need to. I have it for when do need it.

 

[NSEric]

I've put 2-3 gallons of gas through it since porting it, the only issues were the bucking spike screws kept coming loose until I put locktite on them.
If your sticking with the stock carb/intake and running a long bar build it a little different than mine.
IE don't raise the ports for more rpm, just widen the exhaust and enlarge the exhaust port at the muller flange along with the muffler inlet and gasket. Ditching the base gasket reduced the squish by .012 on mine not .020 like other saws so your pretty safe running with out it, I hogged the transfers out but if your after tq not rpm that's not that important. IMO enlarging the exhaust at the muffler is the most important part of porting these, its tiny for a 60 cc saw, the exhaust port is straight off the 45 cc version, the intake is larger than the 45's tho.

 

[doubletrouble]

I've never ported a 2cycle engine. I have thought about it though and your right on. I'd rather port for torque. RPM is fine where it's at for what I do. What did you use in place of the base gasket? yamabond? If you have any close up pics of the porting on the exhaust side could you post them? Thanks.

 

[Philbert]

I am considering using the same pitch chain on all 3 of my main saws.

I looked into this when managing a 'fleet' of 26 saws (MS 021 to MS 660). Couple of things:
- as noted, some saws are 'optimized' to work with a specific chain. Just because you can fit a different chain on it, does not mean that you will get the best performance from those saws;
- you will probably have to replace a number of drive sprockets and guide bars ($$). Might consider doing this when those wear out from use, and need replacement anyways;
- in the end, it is not that hard to manage a few different chains (usually different loop lengths anyways).

It’s a lot cheaper to buy a roll vs loops in the long run, you’re at one price vs it going up and up with by the loop.

Sometimes.
Often just as cheap to by pre-made loops on sale (e.g. Bailey's 10 loops for $100 sales).

I was considering buying rolls and a chain breaker . . . Might be handy to have a breaker/spinner to fix the occasional broken chain . . .

Chain spinner / breaker set is very empowering. Aside from making up loops, and repairs as noted, it also lets me re-size loops, which means that I can pick up used ones cheap (or for free) at garage sales, buy loops that 'almost fit' from local home centers (often have the best price on Oregon chain), run different size bars on the same powerhead, etc. Good to have whatever you choose to do.

Philbert

 

[NSEric]

I used threebond 1184 but yamabond would be fine too.
Its super easy to port the exhaust port. Widen it by 1/4 inch on each side, leaving it a bit rounded, its pretty square stock, I took a piece if sand paper to the edges to get rid of the sharp edge grinding leaves.
I took close to 1/8 off all 4 sides of the exhaust port at the muffler flange then smoothed out the port from cylinder to flange.
This video shows the enlarged exhaust port and hogged out transfers, there's not much to look at really, the shape doesn't change too much your just making it bigger.

 

[doubletrouble]

Thanks! I may try this in the spring. Been using it fairly regular here lately. I have a Dremel just have to get the correct bits to do the job.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

For what it's worth, my Echo 490 is a light saber running 3/8LP on an 18" bar. It came set up for 0.325 with a 20" bar. Maybe it's the 7 point drive that changes the gearing, maybe it's the chain, maybe it's a combination of the 2. Either way, the thing throws chips like a boss. And yes, you do need to add 1 extra drive link to what is specified on the bar. I guess the assumption is that 3/8LP runs on a 6 point drive, the Oregon drive rims for 3/8 are 7 point. According to Oregon, you can use their standard 3/8 drive rim for 3/8LP.