Advice - 266XP First saw, needs repairs.

[Pheadrus]

Hi Everyone
I was just given my first real chainsaw, a Husqvarna 266XP. It has the aluminum tag with serial #3274861 so I'm guessing 1993 and it was made at Tomos. It's suppose to be low hours but can't say for sure. Looking at it, I'd say it's been used pretty good. But this is my first real saw. I have a little Poulan 2150 that was also given to me, but I need something bigger for tree cutting around my yard. I have an infestation of Box Elders and I need to get rid of them asap. I never tore a saw apart before, but have worked on cars, snow blowers, lawn mowers, etc. I'm looking for advice on how to proceed with the saw. As you can see in the pics, the pull cord is hanging out and it only moves about 2-3 inches when I try and pull it. Even in that small distance, it seems to have compression. I'm concerned about the gap between the handle and the main body. When you pull the brake, the brake doesn't seem to go fully back and the plastic handle section flexs and closes the gap. it seems pretty flimsy but I don't know if this is an issue or normal. The saw needs to be disassembled and cleaned. But any red flags anyone sees before I did in? Advice on the pull cord? If it has good compression, I would run it as is. But having no money in it to begin with, I don't mind spending $200-$300 for upgrades. Should I put a p and c kit on it while I have it disassembled for cleaning?
Thanks for any advice or knowledge.

 

[cbfarmall]

If it were my saw, I'd strip it down to the cylinder and start cleaning. Only way to know what you have. The starter thing may be as simple as a short rope, or it may be a bad crank bearing or anything in between. The handle wear on the cover is either a loose handle or AV mounts. The brake cover looks too modern for that particular saw, but should be OK.

 

[Pheadrus]

What about the size of the gap between the handle and main body and the flex between the two? I also just realize it may be a 266, not a 266XP judging by the serial tag. Would it say 266XP instead of 266?

 

[president]

some of the 266, from the tomos factory were
actually 66 s Only made for a few years and supperceded
by the more powerfull 266se/xp versions the tomo,s saws had smaller intakes
and smaller flowing carbs

 

[Pheadrus]

What would be the way to tell the difference? Being made in 93, wouldn't that have been near the end of the 266 production?

 

[Huskybill]

I assume it’s an older 266 because it doesn’t say 266SE? Maybe ignition points.? I’m not sure about the first 266’s.

 

[jp233]

Looks like it was run hard, appears to be a homemade "spike" with no spikes..... the case near the bar is a bit knackered like it's been worked. The AV mounts might be what's causing the flex.

First thing would be to remove the muffler and look at the piston. If it's scored badly, it needs a full rebuild.

Recoil could be a simple fix, just pop that off and see what's up with the recoil spring and rope.

Sort that out first and do a compression test on it? Make sure it's viable as-is potentially...

 

[Woodslasher]

Looks like it was run hard, appears to be a homemade "spike" with no spikes..... the case near the bar is a bit knackered like it's been worked.

That’s a factory Husky “bumper” for people who don’t like spikes.

 

[Pheadrus]

I thought the first number in the serial was the year it was built. My serial starts with a 3. Based on what I've read, a black serial tag would indicate the 80's and an aluminum tag indicates the 90's. So mine should be 1993. Is this incorrect? I thought 266's were made until about the mid 90's making this near the end of production which is why I thought it was a XP. But the serial tag says 266.
Tomorrow I'm pulling the muffler and the recoil. I'll take pics.

 

[Pheadrus]

If you're talking about below the muffler being knackered, it's not. It's a clump of oily grass dried on there. But the metal handle has worn through the plastic as you can see in the one pic.

 

[Ronie]

First thing I'd do is pull the starter and see if It's jammed up. If it's good to go, rotate the fly wheel by hand. I'd also pull the muffler and take a look at the piston to make sure it's in good condition. The gap at the handle and body is normal.

Normal gap at handle.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I assume it’s an older 266 because it doesn’t say 266SE? Maybe ignition points.? I’m not sure about the first 266’s.

No points on any 162 and derivatives. Not physically possible.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

I thought the first number in the serial was the year it was built. My serial starts with a 3. Based on what I've read, a black serial tag would indicate the 80's and an aluminum tag indicates the 90's. So mine should be 1993. Is this incorrect? I thought 266's were made until about the mid 90's making this near the end of production which is why I thought it was a XP. But the serial tag says 266.
Tomorrow I'm pulling the muffler and the recoil. I'll take pics.

Shiny aluminium tags were before black-anodised tags.
I don't know if the Slovenian plant followed the Swedish number convention but '83 would be about right.
Chainbrake is not original.
They made a 66 with a Gilardoni cylinder as well but I don't know if a Tomos 266 wold have a Mahle cylinder like it's Swedish cousin.

 

[Pheadrus]

I'm in the midst of disassembly right now so I'll post pics later. I'll take pics of the cylinder, carb, etc.

The recoil would get stuck after being pulled a couple of inches. When removed. It still had 3-4 inches of rope that would pull out past where it would while on the saw. Spinning the motor by hand without the recoil on, it seems to have full rotation. As soon as I put the recoil back on, it hits that same stuck point after a couple of inches.

 

[Pheadrus]

I'm trying to get the cover off that is over the bar/chain but it doesn't seem to want to come off. It seems attached to the center??? Any advice on how to disassemble??

 

[Ronie]

Sounds like the brake is on.

 

[Pheadrus]

That's what I figured but the brake only moves a little and won't go back.

 

[Ronie]

Can you spin the chain by hand?

 

[Ronie]

I've had a starter pulley bind up because the pulley was to lose, after tightening it up it quit binding. You might have to use a little force to get that brake to unlock.

 

[Ronie]

I've also had a starter that when the four screws were tightened it would twist the cover a little and bind up the starter.