Advice - 266XP First saw, needs repairs.
- Thread starter Pheadrus
- Start date
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I just rebuilt 2 266s i replaced
H l supply had meteor 266xp pistons for 22.00 not sure about canada prices.
Carb kit
Fuel line
Crank Seals
O ring for the oil pump
Both of them are 180+ comp at my elevation.
Very simple saws to work on.
I would thoroughly clean everything first
I pressure wash them to each his own.
That could be your chain brake issue
With crud built up in the mechanism.
Causing it not to reset
You could chase the topcover threads with a 4mm threading bit
If they are too damaged rethread them for 5mm
Very good saws my favorites
i think i have about 6 266s
And a bunch of 268/272s
I still cut timber with them.
H l supply had meteor 266xp pistons for 22.00 not sure about canada prices.
Carb kit
Fuel line
Crank Seals
O ring for the oil pump
Both of them are 180+ comp at my elevation.
Very simple saws to work on.
I would thoroughly clean everything first
I pressure wash them to each his own.
That could be your chain brake issue
With crud built up in the mechanism.
Causing it not to reset
You could chase the topcover threads with a 4mm threading bit
If they are too damaged rethread them for 5mm
Very good saws my favorites
i think i have about 6 266s
And a bunch of 268/272s
I still cut timber with them.
Look at the brake. one is 1988 one is 1989View attachment husqvarna266-1988-06.PDFView attachment husqvarna266-1989-02.PDF
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Here's the part# for orings
i capture the assembly with a hemostat to swap ropes
i capture the assembly with a hemostat to swap ropes
That is a very early 50 crankcase you've got there. 1984. The sintered-plastic oil tank vent held in place by a star washer next to the oil cap gives it away. The original fuel tank would also have the same kind of vent into the space between the top of the tank and the crankcase. Both are prone to leaking.
Does it have a white cylinder cover like the one in this IPL?
Yes it has the white top and the black embossed handle that says "Rancher" It also came with a side cover for a 2100CD if anyone needs one. It's a jigsaw puzzle being completely disassembled by someone else. No bar or chain. I'll post pics of the new cylinder and piston. The original cylinder is a MahIe 44ZD10 + I could be wrong, but the new cylinder looks to be very poor quality.
The first two pics are of the 266 brake. I still have to clean it up more. It looks like one of the tabs at the top is bent but not sure. The rest of the pics are the Rancher 50. It has two extra tops from something else and the two 2100CD side plates as well.
The first two pics are of the 266 brake. I still have to clean it up more. It looks like one of the tabs at the top is bent but not sure. The rest of the pics are the Rancher 50. It has two extra tops from something else and the two 2100CD side plates as well.
Attachments
The owner of the Rancher said it burned a hole in the piston(bad gas mixture??) and his son disassemled it and never finished it. There is a a crack in the housing beside the black circle above the gas filler cap.
The black "Rancher" snap-in inserts cover the holes where heating elements would be fitted on model 154SG which used the same tank. (They were later changed to plain orange.)
The "44" on the Mahle cylinder indictes the bore size. 44 x 32 = 48.66cc.
The replacement cylinder looks like non-OEM, Apart from apparent indifferent quality, other clues are the lack of of an M4 threaded hole in the top (only needed when fitted to a Partner 500) and the hole for a decompression valve. If it is OEM it might be 51cc (45nn bore) or 53cc (46mm bore) and have the mounting screws further apart. Have you compared the piston diameter and bolt circle diameter with the Mahle?
Shame about the crack
You have a 36 year old saw that looks like it's been well and truly used. It shouldn't take too much effort or expense to just "make it go" so you can start it up and do a few cuts now and then, using many of the the parts you've got.
However to "restore" it or prepare it for serious use would be another matter altogether IMO.
Things I noticed which may or may not be significant.
One of the 6 x 8nn head (M4) crankcase bolts is protruding a fair way out on the flywheel side suggesting that It may not be the correct length or the right kind of bolt.
The clutch is protruding outside the drum. (Could be just that the drum is displaced because the oil pump is removed.)
There's quite a bit of missing paint on the crankcase, abraded away over time by vibration against plastic housings. The orange paint is baked powdered enamel, electrostatically applied, so it doesn't come off easily.
The crack is in a place I wouldn't expect to find one. Maybe the saw got dropped or something fell on it. The starter housing not only hides it but should help hold it together to some extent. (I have no experience with "JB Weld" or equivalents.)
Check the big-end for radial play. None should be detectable by feel. (Axial play is ok. The big-end is axially aligned by the little-end in the piston.)
Main bearings and seals are cheap and available. Many non-genuine and non-critical parts (e.g. anti-vibration mounts, ignition, starter parts) are available from HUZTL in China.
The replacement cylinder and piston don't look great but they don't look terrible either. Critical thing is the piston-pin circlips. If they're no good they can "leave home" with messy consequences.
