advice for square ground newbie user?

[ontario026]

Hey guys, I'm heading to a local cutter's supply shop tomorrow, I am planning on picking up a loop of 72 CK chain... My questions are, is this a decent chain? is it basically a 72 LG that is square ground? I have never ran square ground before, so this is basically an experiment for me, just to try it out, see if I can see/tell the benefits of square grounds and hopefully teach myself to square file.... I see there are different files available... 6 sided, flat 6 sided, etc... Can anyone recommend the appropriate file for one to learn to square file 3/8 with? As well as point me in the right direction for some detailed instructions on square filing?

thanks guys

 

[Lobo]

Perhaps this will help:

http://www.madsens1.com/chainmnt.htm

 

[ontario026]

Thanks for the link Lobo, pretty informative, any other links with pictorials referring to hand filing?

 

[Lobo]

Thanks for the link Lobo, pretty informative, any other links with pictorials referring to hand filing?

Here is another one:

http://www.madsens1.com/angles.htm

 

[Lobo]

and more:

http://www.madsens1.com/oregon4.htm

 

[TonyM]

From what little I've played with square filing, I think the flat file with beveled edges is the way to go. I think having the large flat surface facilitates finding and holding the file at the right rotation around it's own axis. The Goofy files and Hexagonal files are so close to round that it is easier to loose reference to the rotation of the file.

 

[Lobo]

In my case I will continue with full chisel round filing, it seems square filing has a shorter stay sharp life in softwoods therefore it will be worst in hardwoods.

I dont want to file and file and file and file and file.

 

[TonyM]

I was actually surprised by how well the square chisel stayed sharp cutting locust, and that's about as hard as you can get. I think maybe the lack of stay sharp concerns are from when the file is held too low forming a projecting beak on the top plate that quickly gets knocked off.

 

[Crofter]

Ontari026;

Do a search here on "square filing" you will come up with lots of threads on square filing, some with pictures. I have seen very little in any books on how to actually square file. If you start out with a good clamping setup and instruction you have a much better chance of it being a good first experience and continuing with it. The out of the box oregon or carlton square ground chain has blunt angles that make it only a bit faster than round filed. With a properly resharpened chain look for something in the neighbourhood of 15 % faster. Square filing is more difficult, takes better light and the files are more expensive and dont last as long.

 

[TonyM]

I laid out a tooth and file in ProE so I could see how the angles all fit together and see the correct angle to hold the file. The attached image shows the angle of the miter in the tooth, which is the angle of the file. This gives you an idea where to start.

 

[TonyM]

Here's some better views to see how it all fits together.

 

[MacDaddy]

Your illustrstions are kind of funky. Just get a file and try filing a tooth.

 

[TonyM]

I guess you just have to appreciate parametric solid modeling!

It is a little better when you can pan, zoom, and spin the 3D model in real time. Kind of hard to get the depth perception looking at a flat picture, hence the orthogonal views.

 

[Marky Mark]

See if you can find your self some Oberg 150 files. "Goofy" you'll see you need an angle. Here's Tommy Fales explaining to Z4Lunch of course that little turd Lamebert had to poke in.Lok at your tooth and the angle. The file while sit right in there. Right MAC.

 

[tony marks]

i had real good square filed work results ,also not so goood .. since round filing is something i kinda have dn,and works real good for me.. mabe someday ill get tjhe square filing dn so that im sure of what i can do.. jmo

 

[MacDaddy]

You're thinking to much just go file and you'll slowly figure it out.

 

[chainsawworld]

i think i am finally getting it. all my information differs from tony's pics. it is ideal to file from the point to the inside corner. his pics differ from that. unless it is so early in the am i looked at them wrong. now that i have the cutter closer i will start to work the rest of the chain. marty

 

[Marky Mark]

Those pictures are not at the right angle, all you need to do is place the file in the cutter making sure it's matching in the corner. Bag the 6 sided files also and get the goofy file. See you in a few weeks.

 

[Crofter]

Chainsawworld, the file should be just kissing the tie strap. with the triangular file being effectively thicker it is harder to get the inside of the corner of the crease close to the inside corner of the tooth. On .325 chain it is virtually impossible. When the side cutter facet comes way out on the underside of the top plate, it presents a nearly vertical face to the chip as the cutter slides under.

 

[chainsawworld]

crofter,
i have that down okay. i am using the file to also modify the rake as i work the cutter. i did get into the tie strap somewhat. may not pass inspection in pa. i still need to work the outside of the sideplate, the back of the cutter and the rake.
this form of sharpening seems to give consistant rpms of the powerhead. not as much over-rev or loss of revs. i can apply steady pressure in the cut. right now without the rakes being cut i can push like crazy. almost ready for the stop watch. marty