Advice on cutting straight on trunks of hardish wood

[HarleyT]

Looks like tooth decay from lack of flossing, or fluoride in the water , . .

Philbert

Which can also constipate your unicorn....

 

[Philbert]

I assume that the dark stuff is gunk that would clean off. I have seen some chains where the top or side plates are actually abraded through the chrome. Usually involves extended contact with concrete.

Philbert

 

[TedyOH]

That may be the worse chain I have ever seen in my 30 years of cutting.

 

[MattG]

That may be the worse chain I have ever seen in my 30 years of cutting.

I do try my best!

 

[MattG]

Anyway, got home today (made sure my unicorn technique was ok first, flossed my teeth) and then set about that last big log with the brand new 25" B+C. It absolutely demolished it - all good now and the saw a joy to use with nice shiny cutting steel. Thanks for all your help and one rainy day will have a go at repairing the 20" chain.

Later, Matt

 

[Philbert]

That may be the worse chain I have ever seen in my 30 years of cutting.

I have seen many with entire teeth missing / broken off.

I do try my best!

Tell folks that you are experimenting with serrated cutting edges (something I suggested here many years ago) for cutting really tough wood!
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/why-not-serrated-chains.108951/

Philbert

 

[TedyOH]

Anyway, got home today (made sure my unicorn technique was ok first, flossed my teeth) and then set about that last big log with the brand new 25" B+C. It absolutely demolished it - all good now and the saw a joy to use with nice shiny cutting steel. Thanks for all your help and one rainy day will have a go at repairing the 20" chain.

Later, Matt

This is how it should be......no smoking chain (actually catching the log on fire from the friction) !

I used just a Stihl free hand file guide for 29 years, stepped up this year to a clamp on style Granberg, best $40 I spent in a while. I'd highly recommend getting one.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Thanks for all your help and one rainy day will have a go at repairing the 20" chain.

Later, Matt

One rainy day? I heard summer is comming on a Monday this year.
No...it doesn't rain in the Isles M8

 

[Homeowner]

That may be the worse chain I have ever seen in my 30 years of cutting.

You should of seen my 3/8" LP chain after I used old axe head as a wedge when felling good size birch tree, there I did look in amazement of all those beautiful orange sparks, until I realized where they came from...

Cutters actually rolled over like a lid in can of sardines when you open it. It was a new chain and it was hopeless to try to save it.

Hardened steel of axe vs Oregon chain, there is not even a contest.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Walt Galer taught me!!!!

Good ole Walt and his mini grinder..

 

[MattG]

This is how it should be......no smoking chain (actually catching the log on fire from the friction) !

Yeah well, you live and learn I suppose!

 

[MattG]

One rainy day? I heard summer is comming on a Monday this year.
No...it doesn't rain in the Isles M8

Well, it should be better than new next month then!

 

[MattG]

As lone wolf described in Post #2. Improper sharpening.
Since U indicate
1. the chain has been re-sharpened several times.
2. U have to apply pressure to the bar
3. U saw occasionally, and are still learning
4. the saw pulls to one side in the cut

imagine the solution is simple
1.a : Sharp chain doesn't cut well = Rakers are too high
2.a : Hard pressing on the bar = Rakers are too high
3.a : Bar has not been used enough to wallow out the bar grooves = Rakers are too high
4.a : the saw pulls to one side = Rakers on opposite side are too high.....

When everything else is done according to Hoyle, and your saw still won't cut. Work on the rakers LiL by LiL until you begin to get good chips flying out of the cut instead of dust. U do not have to apply forceful pressure to the Saw, just rev it up, and touch the log, and she should pull right into the wood like a Tasmanian Devil.

Thanks for taking the time to write this up, SageTown,

I just reread it - I'm thinking, from a learner's perspective that what you said about the rakers i.e. Work on the rakers LiL by LiL until you begin to get good chips flying out of the cut instead of dust, that that process could probably be applied to carb tuning as well, i.e. keep making finer and finer adjustments until it's sounding just right.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I started chainsaw hand filing around the age of 8-9 years old, that was back around 1960 and I am still learning new stuff. It takes time to make hand filing an art but I could do a better job filing at 9 years old than the guys running the saws in the lumber camp I was living in at that time. Through experimentation on my own little details emerged that made the chain cut more efficiently so don`t be afraid to try new things like cutter shape, angles on the top and side plates, depth of the gullets and most importantly the height and even the shape of the depth gauges. Good cutting round files of the proper size for the chain is a must as is a good flat depth gauge file and pay attention to the depth gauge itself, where it is placed on the cutters is important.

 

[MattG]

pay attention to the depth gauge itself, where it is placed on the cutters is important.

Yes that's what I find tricky. Should I press it down more on the current tooth, or along the entire tool length?

And given that a bar has slight curvature, where's the best point to postion the current tooth, I'm guessing the middle of the bar?

These + any other raker tips would help.

I might at some stage also need help measuring cutter lengths (I've got various vernier caliper, micrometers from m/bike + car work) - can anyone post up any good links on doing this?

 

[lone wolf]

Which can also constipate your unicorn....

You libs have Unicorns?

 

[HarleyT]

Libs?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes that's what I find tricky. Should I press it down more on the current tooth, or along the entire tool length?

And given that a bar has slight curvature, where's the best point to postion the current tooth, I'm guessing the middle of the bar?

These + any other raker tips would help.

I might at some stage also need help measuring cutter lengths (I've got various vernier caliper, micrometers from m/bike + car work) - can anyone post up any good links on doing this?

If you take your new chain and study it closely before ever touching it with a file,take notice of the shape of the side of the cutter tooth, place your file in the curvature of that cutter under the top plate and actually inspect it closely. Try to make the file fit and follow the existing angles and when fitting its best make mental notes or even take picts for future reference. The angles and shapes of an original chain is a good starting point for a new filer, these can be improved upon with experience but its best to master getting the chain sharp and consistent first. Do the same thing with the depth gauge tool for the fit and placement. The best part of the bar for filing and depth gauge checking would about mid point of the bars length, the flattest or straightest part of the bar. I have several sets of those cheap plastic calipers I use for checking tooth length, they won`t dull a cutter and are perfectly fine for sizing regular tooth size/length.

 

[lone wolf]

Libs?

Your not a lib?

 

[MattG]

Your not a lib?

You've lost me there Lone Wolf.