Advice on Purchasing a New Chain Saw

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You must know something I don't there Homeowner...I've yet to read any reference that the young lady has a B/F. Does B/F mean 'best friend' , 'boyfriend', or what? May be I just missed a post or ten, lol.

That is exactly the point, if she would have that expert veteran chainsaw user, she would not need chainsaw, thus she could get expert veteran chainsaw user as her boyfriend, hence no charging from cleaning up small stuff and it would be practically free, does not cost even price of chainsaw! :D

That of course means that buying a chainsaw would be less economical option, now what else would young lady have a boyfriend for? :p
 
But if you have a clueless neighbor next door with money to burn, who thinks his property line is right next to where you fence is....

$18,000 worth of tree cutting, and removal later, no more tall leaner trees waiting to crush your property in the next wind storm. ;)

Not that I'd do anything like that, cause that would be unethical. lol!
 
That is exactly the point, if she would have that expert veteran chainsaw user, she would not need chainsaw, thus she could get expert veteran chainsaw user as her boyfriend, hence no charging from cleaning up small stuff and it would be practically free, does not cost even price of chainsaw! :D

That of course means that buying a chainsaw would be less economical option, now what else would young lady have a boyfriend for? :p
:laughing:
Omg. You're new here and obviously haven't had the opportunity to read this thread yet:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/unprofessional.297167/
It's the weekend, enjoy some entertaining reading. ;)

Baiting a chainsaw operator for "free" work is not my MO.
 
Good. So now you understand why I am shopping for a chain saw - and not a BF/with chain saw.:yes:

My experience with life has been, you want to do something right, you better learn and do it by yourself, I guess that you have similar experiences.

Best way to learn, get the saw and start cutting small easy things, I started by felling 15" birch and there were quite bit of luck involved, all the information about angles and how to cut etc I read were a mess when I was overwhelmed by the situation of taking too big job relation to my skills, so taking down 1 inch stuff is not a bad thing for starters.

My Husky 236 broke down after 2 tanks and it took only nearby Husky service 6 months to fix the issue under warranty, after two years of use same part broke again (no spark again). I'm not sure if Stihl is any better, but probably won't be worse.

Could be that I had just bad luck, but made me feel against recommending cheaper end Huskys to anyone. Problem with that saw was also design with air filtration, got clogged with sawdust constantly, saw also needed constant adjusting and it never really run well if tip of the guide bar was below power head, so not the best saw around for sure.

One fun way to learn using saw is to do some carving, dumbbells are quite easy to make for example and it teaches a lot of how saw handles. Only imagination is limit really what one can do from block of wood.
 
My experience with life has been, you want to do something right, you better learn and do it by yourself, I guess that you have similar experiences.

Best way to learn, get the saw and start cutting small easy things, I started by felling 15" birch and there were quite bit of luck involved, all the information about angles and how to cut etc I read were a mess when I was overwhelmed by the situation of taking too big job relation to my skills, so taking down 1 inch stuff is not a bad thing for starters.

My Husky 236 broke down after 2 tanks and it took only nearby Husky service 6 months to fix the issue under warranty, after two years of use same part broke again (no spark again). I'm not sure if Stihl is any better, but probably won't be worse.

Could be that I had just bad luck, but made me feel against recommending cheaper end Huskys to anyone. Problem with that saw was also design with air filtration, got clogged with sawdust constantly, saw also needed constant adjusting and it never really run well if tip of the guide bar was below power head, so not the best saw around for sure.

One fun way to learn using saw is to do some carving, dumbbells are quite easy to make for example and it teaches a lot of how saw handles. Only imagination is limit really what one can do from block of wood.
Got it. .. stay away from low-priced Husky's. :yes:
 
Went to the dealers this morning to pick up a load of top soil and looked at the chain saws while I was there.
It was funny how the clerks facial expression and attitude changed the more we talked.
There I was with my chain saw book in hand and he looked at me like, "Oh crap."
I started by asking him about PPE and immediately his attitude changed for the better.
Then he asked me what brand I was interested in and I told him I was partial to Husqvarna because that's what my mower and sewing machine are.
He said they are getting away from them because the Big Box stores are selling them, but an inferior quality at a lower price.
So, I said, "Stihl, it is then."
I told him about the help I was getting from you guys and that the MS170, 180 and 250 had been recommended.
I asked him which one was the easiest to start and he showed me the MS 251 CB-E

Then I asked him about the premixed gas - I had his full admiration then.:D He showed me what they had, explained the qualities, and said that's all he ever uses in his.
So, I thanked him, told him I would be back after I finished reading my book.
This is what I was looking at:
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/
It says it comes with an 18" chain... I'm thinking I should get it with the 14" instead because it will be somewhat easier to wield and I'll only be using it for small stuff. What say you?

besides price, what's the difference between the 251 and the 211?
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/

I see the 251 is a bit heavier and requires a larger chain.
Hmmm, The 181 is an easy2start, too and $100 less than the 251.
I'm thinking since I'll only be using it around the yard, and not going into the logging business, smaller is better?:)
 
Went to the dealers this morning to pick up a load of top soil and looked at the chain saws while I was there.
It was funny how the clerks facial expression and attitude changed the more we talked.
There I was with my chain saw book in hand and he looked at me like, "Oh crap."
I started by asking him about PPE and immediately his attitude changed for the better.
Then he asked me what brand I was interested in and I told him I was partial to Husqvarna because that's what my mower and sewing machine are.
He said they are getting away from them because the Big Box stores are selling them, but an inferior quality at a lower price.
So, I said, "Stihl, it is then."
I told him about the help I was getting from you guys and that the MS170, 180 and 250 had been recommended.
I asked him which one was the easiest to start and he showed me the MS 251 CB-E

Then I asked him about the premixed gas - I had his full admiration then.:D He showed me what they had, explained the qualities, and said that's all he ever uses in his.
So, I thanked him, told him I would be back after I finished reading my book.
This is what I was looking at:
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/
It says it comes with an 18" chain... I'm thinking I should get it with the 14" instead because it will be somewhat easier to wield and I'll only be using it for small stuff. What say you?

besides price, what's the difference between the 251 and the 211?
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/

I see the 251 is a bit heavier and requires a larger chain.
Hmmm, The 181 is an easy2start, too and $100 less than the 251.
I'm thinking since I'll only be using it around the yard, and not going into the logging business, smaller is better?:)
Smaller is better for your back bigger is better to cut bigger logs get the smaller on that starts easy and smaller chain
 
That CB-E is great in that it does not need adjusting, I guess it was C in it for intellicarb feature.
http://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/

That 181 is great for new user as it has not too much power, but still enough to do the cutting and if one is patient enough, could do some felling too. If that is anything similar to power of my old 236 Husky that is of course and on paper power ratings are roughly the same.

If you sink all that 14" bar into wood it will not have power to do any kind of fast cutting, but if chain is lightened by holding saw bit so it is not full weight of saw into wood, then it does grind trough the wood.

When limbing such power is great as there is no strong kicback, at least Husky did not have any kickback compared my 3hp Jonsered which I need to be careful when limbing, it likes to bounce quite easily.

Chain maintenance is very important with these low power saws and I guess best for beginner is Stihl 2-in-1 filing guide, I believe Pferd made the original, so you might to read from that and maybe get it with a saw.

Learning free hand filing is of course fun, but learning to produce art is going to take a while, so I would get some kind of filing guide at the beginning, Oregon, Husky, Stihl all make usable ones with lot of different prices, so if 2-in-1 is bit too much in cost, there are cheaper alternatives that work different way.

With Oregon filing guide I learned how to make a stroke with consistent angle, now that I have learned how to use Husky roller guide, I think I can make sharpest chain, with free hand I still file too much into chain links and too little on cutter, but 2-in-1 guide I have only read about, but what I have read is all good for beginner user.

File chain every time you fill gas tank, just a little, so chain stays better, cutting performance is greatly reduced with low power saws and dull chain.

Also low power is not a bad thing, I think that those few years that I had low power Husky 236 taught me a lot about how to handle and maintain a saw so that when I moved to more powerful saw and found out about kickback, I could manage it and not getting injured.

With small power saw, fuel costs are also smaller, it might feel like small thing, but it all adds up, also small fuel tank is making sure one takes breaks enough often. My Husky had 50% smaller gas tank than my Jonsered, but only around 33% shorter usage time.

Then there is noise aspect, sure good brand helmet has great earmuffs, but still some noise comes trough and while it does not feel a lot, when working longer with the saw noise tires me, not sure if it happens to anyone else, but for me less noise is definitely better.

So, that 181 looks like to be good choice from my opinion.


For low cost helmet and chaps, I don't know, price looks suspiciously low to me, I have Husky helmet that is meant for occasional use, I think it did cost around 40 and it could be a lot better, ear muffs cause some pain after few hours, maybe because of my eyeglasses, also my jacket's collar rubs sometimes to visor and that causes loud noise to earmuffs, helmet has cheap plastic feel to it. Sure it works, but I might look something better.
Also I have little issues with pulling my ponytail over adjustment thing which I need to do or plastic strap with adjustment is pushing pony tail holder strap thing.
So you might like to test fit helmet in person before buying.

I don't have chaps, but what I have found out is that most here are sold for class I protection, that is 20 meters per second chain speed for max and it is not enough for my saw, I don't know what is chain speed of MS181, might be enough, but all chaps are not equal, that I have learned.

I'm still trying to find class II or class III chaps or pants that does not cost arm and leg, but I have done fine without, however I have protective logger rubber boots that have protected toes, bottom and front part of boot that goes up to near my knee. Heavy for sure, but also great, I have cut few times to my toe area and area that is between my ankle and toe, but boots have saved from any damage to my foot, haven't even noticed I cut to my boots, such gently taps while pruning, but if I would of not had those boots I would of bled.

In US you have different safety classification, so I can't help much with that, but I guess lowest cost ones are lowest in protection, some research of chaps and boots might be needed, if one could get better for 20 dollars, it might not be worth to get those lowest protection versions, but I'm sure someone else has better advice on that as I know only some about european classifications.
 
@TNTreeHugger ,

Very good info has been given sofar. I will allow myself to include the way I see what is needed for a person like you. First off I like your methodical and analytical way to going to things.

What do I recomend?

I would not start at the lower end of the power & price range. For garden use the power will surely be sufficient, but over the long range I would take something a bit more powerful and higher quality. I would start with at least 35cc/2.3hp = Stihl 211. It is the minimum were also larger limbs or smaller trees can be easily tackled.

Further a 14 inch bar is more than enough for limbs/tree's up to 26 inch in diametre! The problem is all to often that people here believe that one has to be able to only cut from one side. Also when viewing many of the videos presented it is all too clear that many have no idea of proper cutting techniques. The length of 14 to 16 inches is about ideal in homeowner setting and enough for about all scenarios a homeowner may encounter.

What alternativ models are out there?

For me the absolut top model I recomend to ALL homeowners and small level firewood cutters is the Dolmar 421. It is in my eyes by far the best bargain out there. Easy start, balance, pro build, power, etc. all add up to one of the best packages for your need. For online purchase from one of the site sponsers I would recomend @fordf150 or @166. Alternative with Dolmar would be the ps35 or ps351. Although these models are for me only a lesser compromise.

With Stihl the 211, 231 or 251 are the equivalent models. Pricewise I see Stihl as pretty high comparing to other brands. Although you are always also paying for the dealer network. If that is worth it for you, one must always deside for oneself.

Echo belongs to the brands that should be definately included. I will admit that I am not sure about the proper model names that would be equivalent. The economy model 490 has recieved here a lot of positive echo.

Husqvarna is another top brand that would fit just as well in your search. Beginning with the 435 & 440 models.

Personally I have had very good experience with Hitachi/Tanaka and see the Hitachi CS40EA model as an viable option.

Would I be unhappy with any of the above mentioned models or brands?

NO! The differences are minor and much more user individual. Any pro will be faster with a lesser saw because he knows correct cutting techniques, how and when to sharpen the chain correctly, how to set the carb, etc. All these factors will be far superior at the end of the day compared to any "super magic saw" which is a few seconds faster in a single cut!
Personally I prefer to get the most for my money and this would be in the above, in my eyes the Dolmar 421, but any model will fullfill the task well.

Extras:
Extra chain is a must! Stihl or oregon chain will both serve very well as long as the chain is sharp!
Bar oil? I would stay with mineral oil. Why? Because in seldom use it causes usually never problems compared to "bio" oil.
Fuel? Definately go with premix! Brand type is totally irrelevant! The carb should be set for the type of fuel used!!! DON'T mix premix with gas station mix! Your saw can potentially die!
Sharpening system? I prefer the husqvarna roller file system. Just be certain to get the correct size.

PPE = personal protection equipment
DEFINATELY get some! Chaps, helmet with eye and ear protection and some chainsaw boots are all SUPER CHEAP compared to a visit to the hospital and income loss due to sick leave! For the homeowner type saws mentioned above the lowest class of chap security is enough! Pricewise for a complete set you can calculate around 100- 150$.

7
 

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