Advice on Purchasing a New Chain Saw

[Michigan Escapee]

You're not too far off... after listening to what the forester said, I actually entertained the thought of doing some trimming myself. NOT!
From what I've been reading here, I know how dangerous working with trees can be.

Yeah, you ain't whistling dixie. You can get smooshed pretty damned easy. My first big tree project, was a big oak(didn't know it at the time), it was a simple physics problem. Cut away the dead part, the extended branch would smack into a lower one, and generally avoid smooshing the neighbors fence on the way down. Of course, I was up on a ladder a good 12-15 feet, and am NOT a ladder monkey by nature. Not planned on, wood weighs a LOT, its heavy kiln dried, and it's REALLY heavy when moist, even if dead. And when you cut away a section of tree that weighs maybe 10 tons, the living tree, will flex, a LOT!

So I got about enough fractions of a second to figure hold on tight, until the tree was done vibrating, while holding on to the rented chainsaw, and keeping balanced on the ladder. The tree lands more or less as planned, then rolls back, into a small fire, and bang the neighbors fence enough to make a minor dent, and snap one of the retainer caps.

Big thing is, get down there, and start sawing, before the part of the tree IN THE FIRE, lights up. And of course, cut the branch resting on the neighbors fence.

So, haulin ass to get that done, sectioning up the tree, figuring out on the fly how bucking is done, and stopping for a light beer or two to avoid boiling to death. I've got helper minions working on other parts of the tree with machetes, hatchets, bow saws, etc. The small branches go on the fire, the big ones go on the reserve pile. Sawing wood until I could barely stand up, and eventually, the chainsaw ain't working so hot. Getting dull and all that. No shapening kit, and I had no idea how to sharpen a chain anyway.

No matter, the section of tree that's left is only about 6 feet long, and 2 1/2 feet thick. Perfect park bench size. And just barely small enough for about 6-7 people to move.

It's the sort of project you do at 21 for giggles and beer money. Or just beer. No clue required, just plow right in. Never really had any idea that a chunk of tree like that hitting the ground would make it actually SHAKE! lol! Only guys would be quite that nuts to attempt it I suppose.

End up over there helping fix one awful problem or another. Poison ivy, not allergic, where's the spray? Massive nest of ground bees. Ok, where's the spray. Roses are dying? Ok, see all those fire ashes from the tree? Put those around the roses.

Didn't do much more chainsaw work until 6 years later when the massive wind storm hit michigan. Thus knocking over all the trees, and producing another marathon of beer, chainsawing, and huge bonfires every weekend.

 

[hseII]

Yeah, you ain't whistling dixie. You can get smooshed pretty damned easy. My first big tree project, was a big oak(didn't know it at the time), it was a simple physics problem. Cut away the dead part, the extended branch would smack into a lower one, and generally avoid smooshing the neighbors fence on the way down. Of course, I was up on a ladder a good 12-15 feet, and am NOT a ladder monkey by nature. Not planned on, wood weighs a LOT, its heavy kiln dried, and it's REALLY heavy when moist, even if dead. And when you cut away a section of tree that weighs maybe 10 tons, the living tree, will flex, a LOT!

So I got about enough fractions of a second to figure hold on tight, until the tree was done vibrating, while holding on to the rented chainsaw, and keeping balanced on the ladder. The tree lands more or less as planned, then rolls back, into a small fire, and bang the neighbors fence enough to make a minor dent, and snap one of the retainer caps.

Big thing is, get down there, and start sawing, before the part of the tree IN THE FIRE, lights up. And of course, cut the branch resting on the neighbors fence.

So, haulin ass to get that done, sectioning up the tree, figuring out on the fly how bucking is done, and stopping for a light beer or two to avoid boiling to death. I've got helper minions working on other parts of the tree with machetes, hatchets, bow saws, etc. The small branches go on the fire, the big ones go on the reserve pile. Sawing wood until I could barely stand up, and eventually, the chainsaw ain't working so hot. Getting dull and all that. No shapening kit, and I had no idea how to sharpen a chain anyway.

No matter, the section of tree that's left is only about 6 feet long, and 2 1/2 feet thick. Perfect park bench size. And just barely small enough for about 6-7 people to move.

It's the sort of project you do at 21 for giggles and beer money. Or just beer. No clue required, just plow right in. Never really had any idea that a chunk of tree like that hitting the ground would make it actually SHAKE! lol! Only guys would be quite that nuts to attempt it I suppose.

End up over there helping fix one awful problem or another. Poison ivy, not allergic, where's the spray? Massive nest of ground bees. Ok, where's the spray. Roses are dying? Ok, see all those fire ashes from the tree? Put those around the roses.

Didn't do much more chainsaw work until 6 years later when the massive wind storm hit michigan. Thus knocking over all the trees, and producing another marathon of beer, chainsawing, and huge bonfires every weekend.

Holy Essay Batmans.

PM me next time.

#havesaws,maytravel

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Yeah, you ain't whistling dixie. You can get smooshed pretty damned easy. My first big tree project, was a big oak(didn't know it at the time), it was a simple physics problem. Cut away the dead part, the extended branch would smack into a lower one, and generally avoid smooshing the neighbors fence on the way down. Of course, I was up on a ladder a good 12-15 feet, and am NOT a ladder monkey by nature. Not planned on, wood weighs a LOT, its heavy kiln dried, and it's REALLY heavy when moist, even if dead. And when you cut away a section of tree that weighs maybe 10 tons, the living tree, will flex, a LOT!

So I got about enough fractions of a second to figure hold on tight, until the tree was done vibrating, while holding on to the rented chainsaw, and keeping balanced on the ladder. The tree lands more or less as planned, then rolls back, into a small fire, and bang the neighbors fence enough to make a minor dent, and snap one of the retainer caps.

Big thing is, get down there, and start sawing, before the part of the tree IN THE FIRE, lights up. And of course, cut the branch resting on the neighbors fence.

So, haulin ass to get that done, sectioning up the tree, figuring out on the fly how bucking is done, and stopping for a light beer or two to avoid boiling to death. I've got helper minions working on other parts of the tree with machetes, hatchets, bow saws, etc. The small branches go on the fire, the big ones go on the reserve pile. Sawing wood until I could barely stand up, and eventually, the chainsaw ain't working so hot. Getting dull and all that. No shapening kit, and I had no idea how to sharpen a chain anyway.

No matter, the section of tree that's left is only about 6 feet long, and 2 1/2 feet thick. Perfect park bench size. And just barely small enough for about 6-7 people to move.

It's the sort of project you do at 21 for giggles and beer money. Or just beer. No clue required, just plow right in. Never really had any idea that a chunk of tree like that hitting the ground would make it actually SHAKE! lol! Only guys would be quite that nuts to attempt it I suppose.

End up over there helping fix one awful problem or another. Poison ivy, not allergic, where's the spray? Massive nest of ground bees. Ok, where's the spray. Roses are dying? Ok, see all those fire ashes from the tree? Put those around the roses.

Didn't do much more chainsaw work until 6 years later when the massive wind storm hit michigan. Thus knocking over all the trees, and producing another marathon of beer, chainsawing, and huge bonfires every weekend.

Wow. What a great story.... makes me want a chain saw!!!

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Update... haven't given up on a chain saw purchase. I'm still waiting for my book to arrive.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Yippie! The book finally arrived today.
Really ticks me off when a shipper marks an item as "shipped," but in reality, waits another seven days to actually take it to the post office.
Anyway, it's here now and it looks like a good book, so I'm off to my reading chair for the night.
I'll be back with plenty of questions sometime soon, I'm sure.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[USMC615]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At least you are reading and making yourself aware of the inherent danger(s) which exist with running saws. All hand/power tools can be dangerous to operate. Nothing comes without operator risk. Keep reading TNT, don't get too scared too soon.

 

[Michigan Escapee]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Most of that isn't an issue if you remember to keep the right stance, and know how to grip the saw. You don't want to be totally rigid obviously, or standing in such a way that a part of you is closer than 12-18 inches from the saw where it might kick back. I'm comfortable enough with it that I can have the saw kick back, buck, jump, etc without a problem.

Of course, if I'm standing on a ladder in such a way that a kickback is gonna make me jump back far enough that I'll fall off, that IS a problem. Or sawing overhead, your arms are weak in such a position, and if there's a kickback, you're fighting that force as well as gravity, and the mechanical advantage the saw now has over you.

For giggles you might get yourself a Remington electric saw, maybe 12-14 inch bar, and try that on a few things, and try to wrestle that around a little. You can get those for around $40-$50, and then come in handy for times when you need a saw that can be pole mounted.
Or the slightly bigger Remington RM1425. Handy to have around when it's just small stuff, and you're too lazy to get the bow saw, or the hatchet.

You can also run it off a 14-16ga 50 foot drop cord. Just store the drop cord, your oil, wedges, etc in a 5 gal bucket, and you're good to go. Also plenty of chances to practice your sharpening, because stock Remington chain kinda sucks.

Then again, I was using a beefier version of that, found abandoned in a garage, to plunge cut down into stumps. Which a saw like that REALLY doesn't like to do, especially not one that shot rust flakes out of the motor. Mud and dirt in the track and chain just about every time. Poor saw. It did a valiant job before the motor smoked itself though. I should photo the chain, just for something to add to the horror show gallery. lol!

Anyway, just think of kickback as like trying to trap a rottweiler under a blanket. With the right strategy, and stance, very much possible. Lose your stance and concentration, and it's gonna get away from you.

 

[The Thriftdrifter]

like trying to trap a rottweiler under a blanket.

Sounds like fun, have you done that before Michigan Escapee?

 

[Michigan Escapee]

Oh, did all sorts of horrible things to a certain rottweiler. Held her with feet in the air on the premise that a baby pig held upside down won't make as much noise, and a rottweiler is kinda pig like. Didn't work out so well in the long run, she kinda liked it, so she slept in a recliner that way, dead bug style.



She made an alright lap dog, even if she got up to about 150 pounds. Long gone now, probably at least 8-10 years ago.

 

[moondoggie]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Time for a Tennessee GTG!!

 

[lone wolf]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well the thing is you would need also in addition to this chainsaw a veteran who knows saws well to show you how to safely use it , technique , safety, body positioning etc.

 

[7sleeper]

OMG I'm only on page 20-something and already I'm scared to buy a chain saw.
Seems like EVERYTHING can cause "kickback"!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You should reconsider, fear is not ok, respect is ok.


And never forget you can also kickback!

7

 

[Homeowner]

One thing with saw that I would think will benefit new users is that get used to being spooked, kickback for example, it will be sudden thing that is going to spook one few first times and for some reflex is to let go of the saw, which is bad thing.

Go trough it in your mind, make mental note that whenever whatever spooks you when using the saw, grab tight, be master to that saw, saw is your slave and you hold on to that slave and keep it down

At least with 236 Husqvarna, which was lowest cost Husqvarna saw at time when I bought one, kickback is not really big issue, it is something to be aware of, but it does not send bar to forehead instantly, sure it does kick but only mildly, with such you can even practice how kickback feels, much safer to do controlled test and being surprised!

But don't be a fool with it, poking some log on ground with nose of the bar is a lot safer than trying to cut a limb on standing tree and accidentally hitting tip of the bar to branch behind one tries to cut, plan, think ahead don't try to be fast and those free time saws are really safe to work with.

Chaps might be good thing though, it is so easy to move chain into contact with leg without thinking at all and it is pain even chain would just barely move, cutters are sharp.

Easy way to avoid kickback is to never use chain for cutting that is at upper half of the bar or at tip of the bar, most cutting can be made such way too, but I would think before one has mastered spook effect and knows how to handle that kickback, it would be safer to stick with just cutting with chain that runs at bottom side of the guide bar.

Sometimes somethings are made to look worse than they are, kickback is really bad thing with 45cc saws that have chain moving a lot faster than in those low end free time saws, kickback is so small with those free time saws that one should be aware of it, it but for example I tried to get kickback effect from my saw and it was really hard to make happen even at slightest amounts, so don't put too much weight on those warnings, but be aware of it.

Oh and if using saw that actually has power and chain speed, that is different story, there really is kickback way different from free time saws, but still it won't kill you instantly without time to do anything about it, sure it can but only if one lets saw off from grip because getting spooked by it.

It would be great if professional saw user would show that kickback and how to prepare for it, nothing to be afraid of but something to be alert from, so one is prepared and won't get spooked.

Those lower end saws are great in teaching how to handle the thing, they are made so that it is very hard to get bitten by the saw even one has not mastered all the tricks. Moving up to closer 3hp saws and those are different animals, safety is a lot bigger issue with those more powerful saws.

So don't neglect the safety and warnings, but be assured that with under 2hp free time saw it is not so dangerous as warnings might make it sound.

Also don't think that those low HP saws are useless, things just happen slower with them, I did fell and cut to rounds over 20" birch trees with Husky 236 (1.9hp) , which it was never meant to, so very useful tools they are even some might think they are not quite real chainsaws because slow chain speed and low power.

 

[Michigan Escapee]

Yeah, some of the beefier saws are kind of a pain. My big craftsman electric saw was just horrible to try and plunge cut with it, eventually fight all the bucking, and force it down, get some wood chip flying, and POW! There goes the damned breaker again. Over a 12ga extension cord no less.

Found it was easier to drill some big pilot holes with a few ship auger bits. Were about 18-24 inches long, and 1/4 inch up to 1 inch wide size, then had a really massive 1 1/2 inch , and a 2 1/2 that was impractical for boring more than 2-3 inches deep. Anyway, this allowed the chainsaw to dig in without having to bounce and skip over a smooth surface.

And of course, when doing stumps this way, it helps to cheat, a whole hell of a lot. I believe over time, I purchased enough pounds of potassium nitrate to get on several watchlists. At $3 a bottle though, cheap enough for what it does. Shoot the powder down the boreholes of that green stump, add water every day for a few weeks, and it softens up enough to remove another few cubic feet of wood. Bore more holes, add more powder, water, cover up with lawn clippings, leaves, etc.

Not of course, a hobby for someone in a hurry, and as you get below surface level, more and more things will be nesting in it, living in it. One of the stumps got infested with bunnies, so, put that off for half a week until they moved on. Then snakes feasting on bugs, etc.

8-20 inches below the surface, time to drill the last boreholes, switch to nitrogen pellet fertilizer, dump it in, dirt over it, seed with grass, and forget about it.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Well the thing is you would need also in addition to this chainsaw a veteran who knows saws well to show you how to safely use it , technique , safety, body positioning etc.

DUH, Lone Wolf!!! If I had the expert veteran I wouldn't need the chain saw!!!

 

[TNTreeHugger]

One thing with saw that I would think will benefit new users is that get used to being spooked, kickback for example, it will be sudden thing that is going to spook one few first times and for some reflex is to let go of the saw, which is bad thing.

Go trough it in your mind, make mental note that whenever whatever spooks you when using the saw, grab tight, be master to that saw, saw is your slave and you hold on to that slave and keep it down

At least with 236 Husqvarna, which was lowest cost Husqvarna saw at time when I bought one, kickback is not really big issue, it is something to be aware of, but it does not send bar to forehead instantly, sure it does kick but only mildly, with such you can even practice how kickback feels, much safer to do controlled test and being surprised!

But don't be a fool with it, poking some log on ground with nose of the bar is a lot safer than trying to cut a limb on standing tree and accidentally hitting tip of the bar to branch behind one tries to cut, plan, think ahead don't try to be fast and those free time saws are really safe to work with.

Chaps might be good thing though, it is so easy to move chain into contact with leg without thinking at all and it is pain even chain would just barely move, cutters are sharp.

Easy way to avoid kickback is to never use chain for cutting that is at upper half of the bar or at tip of the bar, most cutting can be made such way too, but I would think before one has mastered spook effect and knows how to handle that kickback, it would be safer to stick with just cutting with chain that runs at bottom side of the guide bar.

Sometimes somethings are made to look worse than they are, kickback is really bad thing with 45cc saws that have chain moving a lot faster than in those low end free time saws, kickback is so small with those free time saws that one should be aware of it, it but for example I tried to get kickback effect from my saw and it was really hard to make happen even at slightest amounts, so don't put too much weight on those warnings, but be aware of it.

Oh and if using saw that actually has power and chain speed, that is different story, there really is kickback way different from free time saws, but still it won't kill you instantly without time to do anything about it, sure it can but only if one lets saw off from grip because getting spooked by it.

It would be great if professional saw user would show that kickback and how to prepare for it, nothing to be afraid of but something to be alert from, so one is prepared and won't get spooked.

Those lower end saws are great in teaching how to handle the thing, they are made so that it is very hard to get bitten by the saw even one has not mastered all the tricks. Moving up to closer 3hp saws and those are different animals, safety is a lot bigger issue with those more powerful saws.

So don't neglect the safety and warnings, but be assured that with under 2hp free time saw it is not so dangerous as warnings might make it sound.

Also don't think that those low HP saws are useless, things just happen slower with them, I did fell and cut to rounds over 20" birch trees with Husky 236 (1.9hp) , which it was never meant to, so very useful tools they are even some might think they are not quite real chainsaws because slow chain speed and low power.

Great advice! Thank you for taking the time to reply - and Welcome to the Forums!

 

[USMC615]

DUH, Lone Wolf!!! If I had the expert veteran I wouldn't need the chain saw!!!

Butttttttt...

A small saw is worth the investment for you. For small limb, storm damage cleanup around your property. Would be well worth it...the first time you have to call someone out for a little, piddling storm cleanup, and I'm talking small diameter stuff, poof!!!...there goes your saw money and you still don't have a saw outta the deal. And if you have to call them twice, now the $$ numbers really ain't looking good for you. Food for thought.

 

[Homeowner]

Butttttttt...

A small saw is worth the investment for you. For small limb, storm damage cleanup around your property. Would be well worth it...the first time you have to call someone out for a little, piddling storm cleanup, and I'm talking small diameter stuff, poof!!!...there goes your saw money and you still don't have a saw outta the deal. And if you have to call them twice, now the $$ numbers really ain't looking good for you. Food for thought.

Hmm, I'm not sure if I understand this correctly, but she wrote something along lines if she _had_ veteran pro chainsaw user, now why her B/F would charge her from the job? ;D

 

[USMC615]

Hmm, I'm not sure if I understand this correctly, but she wrote something along lines if she _had_ veteran pro chainsaw user, now why her B/F would charge her from the job? ;D

You must know something I don't there Homeowner...I've yet to read any reference that the young lady has a B/F. Does B/F mean 'best friend' , 'boyfriend', or what? May be I just missed a post or ten, lol.