Advice requested for logging my property

[HUSKYMAN]

I have 18 acres of woods that I have been clearing for the last year to build my house and barn on. I want to do a select cut now while I am tearing stuff up anyways so in a year or two everything can settle down. The local mills are too busy to mess with what I have because of wet weather, late freezing, etc.

So since I have to cut some nice trees down anyways to clear room for my house, pond, barn, etc. I want to do my logging now. I have mixed hardwoods, mostly soft and hard maple and red and white oak. The mill I intend to use takes logs in 8, 10, and 12 foot lengths, and anything over 14" diameter. A friend who is a logger in the U.P. said they cut logs up their to 8' 8", 10' 8", and 12' 8". Is this common in the midwest?

I have a Case 580 backhoe which I am using to skid the logs and stack them. So far I have been using a chain on the front bucket for skidding but I have a set of skidding tongs on the way to try that method.

I would appreciate some advice on the best method for skidding so as not to damage the logs, how long I can keep the logs stacked on my property (they are off the ground) before they lose value, and what is the best felling cut to use so I don't waste any timber .

Thanks a lot

 

[codlasher]

Hi Huskyman.
I would walk around with a coloured spray can and mark those that need to come out. Then I would work out the extraction route minimising sharp turns for the long sticks, easiest route/least damage and scabbing of remaining crop. Next work out the direction of fall as this will certainly help in your extraction. (butts first) Your loader may help there with a little push.

I can skid max 100 cube and length of 54' with County tractor and skidding attatchment. Getting sticks out in longest lengths is important as this saves yet another pass over the ground. I lift the butt end so only the tip is dragged on the ground. If you have smaller sticks you can rig chokers and draw them together where they then can be bundled up and skidded as one.

Cleanliness is important because stones and dirt soon spoil the milling blade and after the tenth change during the day you will be miffed!

Beyond six months stacked will see a fall in quality and also insect problems. (this is from a UK perspective NOT USA) It also depends on species as some benefit from relaxing before milling.

We cut as low as possible as this enables maximum productivity volume wise, stops machinary / wheel damage, looks better and stops coppice where it may not be needed.

I hope this helps.
Codlasher.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Thanks for the advice. I never thought of pulling the butt out first.

I assume the mills pay more for 2 12' sections than 3 8' sections, correct? Thats the way I have been cutting so I hope so.

Six months should be about when I am done, depending on how much rain we get. If its a dry spring I will be done sooner.

I don't know how to calculate board feet, but approximately how many logs will constitute a truck load? I know there are different styles of logging trucks but a rough guess would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Husky137]

Bucking decisions depend on many factors. An 8 foot with 0 defects is usually worth more than a 12 foot with sweep or knots because you get paid more per Bf for the higher grade log. The # of logs on a truck is also going to depend on the size of the truck,diameter of the logs and how the lengths cut will fit on the truck. I bet Gypo could greatly expound this subject.

Only over 14" diameter seems odd as well. I hope they pay top dollar for that limitation. What do they want for trim?

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I think the 14" diameter refers to at chest high. I am going to call tomorrow and find out what the minimum log diameter is. Is there a normal diameter, say 10-12" minimum?

I figured it would be more complicated than just getting as many 12 footers as I can. So in general if I can get a clean 8 foot red oak, it would be worth more than a 12 footer that has a couple knots in the last four feet of the log? Barring any other defects of course.

 

[Forest Steward]

Bucking is one of the toughest and probably most important factors when selling your logs. The mills are always complaining about this. Some of them will even put on workshops for the loggers. If your going to be calling the mill anyways, I would also ask them what they want for lengths. Depending on their current stock, they might even reject certain lengths and/or grades. A couple general rules would be to try and cut out as much sweep as you can and keep the larger knots toward the ends. Those are the most common defects that your going to encounter. Generally your butt log is going to be the most valuable log (b/c of size and lack of knots, sweep, taper, etc.) and give you the highest price per board foot. In that case, you'd want to get the longest piece out of the one that'll get you the highest price. It's going to take some time and experience (and maybe a phone call or two from the mill) to get the hang of it. Soon enough you'll start being able to break it down as you look at the tree as a whole. Good luck.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Thanks for the thoughts, but what is sweep? :help:

Would that refer to the curvature of the log?

 

[Husky137]

Thanks for the thoughts, but what is sweep? :help:

Would that refer to the curvature of the log?

Yup, can be a big deduction in an otherwise clear log.

 

[codlasher]

We work on roughly 30 cubic foot per ton for hardwood. UK trucks can carry about 24 ton.

My 100 cube max moveable stick is then just over three tons.

If you can get a set of Hoppus tables and a girthing tape you can than give the mill an idea of quantity, and at the same time work out which sized wagon you may need. This then leads to thinking of your loading bay and how to easily recieve the wagon, load it and then make sure that it can depart without any fuss....coz there's nothing like a bogged wagon and an irritated driver.

Sweep is curve in the stick. Most ordinary mills want straight, knot free milling material, so will wriggle the price down if your produce is not up to their expected standard. Read what Forest Steward has written.
Shipwrights love this sweep, but unless you have a local shipyard you are stuck with the trend and consequent underpricing.

Another thought is that of the lengths cut against the bay size on the wagon. Bear this in mind as you really want that load up to weight as it is no good paying to haul fresh air.
codlasher.

 

[MALogger]

Some log buyers might come out and educate you on how best to buck the logs. It is in their best interest. One mill I deal with for hardwood wants the longer lengths with a small defect towards the end and will pay you for the better grade. Each mill is different and knowing exactly what they want will give them better logs and put more money in your pocket.

Craig

 

[slowp]

found this site for terminology, such as "sweep".

http://www.sfrc.ufl.edu/Extension/ssfor11.htm

Were you going to do a timber cruise of some type prior to cutting?