Again - root barriers / root development / feeding

[M.D. Vaden]

How about some ideas or info about this plan:

I've seen benefits from putting in root barriers for trees to prevent damage - like to one side near a sidewalk.

At our home, I would like to cut the concrete in the middle of our driveway, for 2 or 3 small 30" openings to plant slow growing trees for a little extra shade.

One idea, was to line the entire hole around the edge with a flexible root barrier.

Certainly the trees would grow deep roots. Or could grow them.

My concern, do trees need a certain amount of surface root, or can they still pull-off all their feeding and water needs from deeper rooting.

I also don't care if I need to remove them every 12 years. But I'd like to get 20 or more years if I could.

What's anyone else's spin on root growth in a contained area.

 

[Dan F]

As I recall, in an urban situation, street trees are only expected to live either 7 or 12 years, I don't remember which. Seems as if the 7 is the correct number though...

I remember one of my professors talking about the root barrier in sidewalk plantings. If you do use a root barrier, remember to keep an inch or so above the soil/mulch line to keep roots from forming over it.

I would tend to think that trees could pull off survival with a deeper roots, however, they may need a little more water than your average tree.

If your driveway concrete is in good shape and of proper thickness, you really shouldn't have too many problems with root damage, with or without a root barrier. The barrier would just be extra insurance, I guess, though any root damage would just occur further away from the tree, rather than right next to it as is most common. With the barrier, if the roots grow under it, they will slowly make their way back to the surface, they obviously won't make an abrupt vertical turn once they are under it.

The other thing to consider with a barrier is how much of a b*tch will it be to replace the tree once it's time is up due to the inevitable circling roots?


Dan

 

[M.D. Vaden]

Yeah, I figured replacement might be fun.

I probably will get what I can with a stump grinder, then use my sacrificial chainsaw. We have a $99 Poulan that we keep for disecting things in the dirt.

Probably would grind a circle in the middle, then cut 4 slits with the butcher saw in the dirt, and finally use my enormous pry bar to rip loose the quarters.

I think I'd like to plant either Columner Hornbeam or Himalayan White Birch.

One alternative - or two - are the Crape Myrtle or Rose of Sharon that are grafted at about 5' for an 8' tall starter shrub/mini-tree.