Alaskan saw mill?
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kimosawboy
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From the little I learned online you might be having a hard time trying to track down a bar with the correct mounts ((either GB 'PA' (Oregon D010) or 'HV' mount (Oregon D009). 3/8 .058 chain is standard.)).. Also if you do grenade the saw your parts are going to be difficult to source as it a 40+ year old saw.
That said I ran twin 2100's for years and just recently retired them.
That said I ran twin 2100's for years and just recently retired them.
Probably my 661 w 42" bar. The 2 hole conduit straps is what I use from the start. Wedges of wood at hand help stability of guide ladder on 1st cut, and 2nd if there is wobble of guide during 1st slice.
Had to do it on trailer because couldn't get the whole thing off in one swell foop.
WARNING: be sure, if you try this way, that screws won't reach into path of chain!
Yes I mill upside down. The chips don't pile up under foot, and that is the side the oil is pumped in between the bar and chain.
To each his own
This is a maple slab and stump
I have on hand a 50", 60" cannon bars with a 72" forester I stumbled across on line. My buddy Kyle has access to a 5 1/2 -6' dia stump that had top blown off 20 feet up, he guesses.
100 miles isn't too bad a trip for that challenge
Mill safe
Milling with an older saw that uses a bar mount that is no longer common can be a little difficult. I'm not sure about the exact mount that Partner used on the r40. But for my Jonsered 910e I had to modify a Stihl mount bar (D025) to get one long enough for the mill without spending a lot of cash. As far as I know, Cannon Bars will do custom orders for out-of-production bar mounts. Though I have no clue how much they charge. I've seen at least a couple of guys running 100cc+ Jonsereds with custom bars from Cannon. The best bet would be to contact them. That said, the question you are going to end up asking yourself is are you better off just picking up a saw with a mount that is still in production (or a clone) and just selling the vintage saw? That's a question I'm going to have to reckon with myself in the spring. Not sure I want to invest $500 or more in a bigger bar for a saw that is already difficult to find parts for.
I've got a 50" & 60" cannon bars. Gotten more than 5 years ago and IIRC easily over $10 an inch for common Stihl mount, 046 or 661.
On the other hand 72"forester was less than $400 same mount.
No one has those chain lengths in stock, so it's get a 500 foot reel and make up my own loops. Only 2 for 6' bar lol, with a bit leftover to add an next reel
G'day gents
@SeMoTony Cannon bars definitely seem to be the way to go for the larger rigs. I set mine up with the 32" Oregon bar just to see if chainsaw milling was something I wanted to get into long-term without a huge outlay of cash (much like the OP). The 910e powerhead was given to me by my step-mom (was my step grandfather's). Picked the bar and Grandberg mill through ebay. Now I'm already plotting to go bigger in the spring. At that point, I'm pretty sure I'm going to be looking for an 066 or 088 powerhead, 60" canon bar and a longer Granberg (or just get longer rails for my current mill). Not to knock the 910e in any way. We tried the mill with an 064 my uncle loaned me and the 910e kept up in every way (if not slightly out cutting the 064 by a slim margin). The bigger J-reds just aren't super common around my area. While Stihl's are reasonably easy to find. Out of curiosity what kind of chain reel did you get for your ripping chain? I happened into some Carlton ripping chain for this rig, and I've been pretty happy with it. Happier still after it was sharpened lol.
I deal with Madsen on the west coast. Just over 5 years ago a 42" Oregon bar was in use on a large white oak log in yard waste dump. Mike saw me working on slabs and asked me to look at a similar size ash in his yard. They'd dropped a healthy tree and I took 17 slabs from it. My avatar shows off the last cut from the stump, with 60" bar on a ms460.
I run square chisel skip on the bars over 42", on the 42 ,or less, semi-skip . Each sharpen brings the angle closer to 5°. My theory is the skip leaves more room for chips to avoid binding the loop within the gap. The closer to 0° the shorter the cut each cutter makes with less side push. Smoothness of cut has been more dependent on feed rate IMHO. don't push it, let it feed .
Since the top of bar is oiled in the groove I lead with that side at about 15° angle so PH is a bit ahead of sprocket other side of log. Gives a self feed effect with chips thrown out, rather than clogging in the chain cover, or underfoot. Left hand holds the rig from binding agains log far side.Most dump oil on other end with auxiliary oil that I can't see lubing the chain evenly. But that seems to b just me
Mill safe
I run the Alaskan 36" unit on a Echo cs8000 and it does a good job for squaring oversized logs to fit my TimberTuff band mill. I wouldnt try cutting inch boards with it!---WAY too much waste!
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