altitude question

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Spellfeller

A noob wising he had more time to cut trees...
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
42
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53
Location
In Western NC when I'm lucky...
Hi, all:

First, I need to say how glad I am to find the site. So glad that it's here and that knowledgeable people are willing to share their expertise. Thanks!

Second, I'm a relative noob who is helping his aging mother-in-law take care of about three acres on the side of a mountain in the Southern Appalachians. I'll likely have about 607 questions for you all, but I'll start with these:

Will a saw tach-ed by the dealer where I live (Indianapolis, ~800 ft.) have to be readjusted for where it will do most of its work (Western North Carolina, ~5000 ft.)? Or is that not enough gain to worry about carb settings?

Respectfully,
Jeff
 
You need to know how to adjust the carb.Its easy .These fellows will point you in the right direction. clean the air filter every once and awhile.
 
First off, welcome to the site and hope that you enjoy it. As for the change in altitude, I can say for sure that you will experience a major change in the saw and it should be set for that altitude. When it comes to weedeaters and such in the high country, I seem to have to reset them if the humidity changes. KZ
 
Going up in altitude will make the saw richer, which is the safe way to go. You will get more power with a tune, but it will be safe as is
 
I live and cut at 2100'. When I went to the Pa gtg this year I checked my saws that I ran. All but my old mac seemed fine but my old mac needed to be richened up a tad.

According to google the gtg was roughly 369'. I would definately retune at your elevation.
 
You using the echo in your avatar? Im just across the hill from you.literally tonight I can be in nc in 10 minutes on foot.lol
Im a little ways from the pisgah nf though
 
Thanks a ton, guys. Between your replies and this thread (search is a wonderful thing!) I am now all set.

jug: Just bought my first saw, a CS-590 Timber Wolf. For the past few years, I'd been using my father-in-law's ancient neon green Poulan 2000 to maintain the property. That little thing was being asked to punch WAY above its weight and eventually died, due to my early ignorance about maintenance and a less-than-awesome small motor tech. Since then I've educated myself a little bit. After doing my homework, the Echo seemed like the best bang-for-the-buck right now in the farm/ranch category...it should be plenty of saw for what I need!
 
Yes the 590 should serve you well.I have the cs600.im going to modify it a little as I go along.the muffler mod opened it up tremendously.hope to check the squish later and drop the base gasket out before fall if possible.maybe even some polishing on the ports.;)
 
Jug, I would have loved to have stepped up to the 600, but certain economic realities meant that I needed to stay at the lower price point!

I follow you on "muffler mod," but you're pretty much speaking a different language after that...I need lessons in "chainsaw hop-up speak"! :D
 
No need for the step up to the cs600 you can do that later with the 600 handlebar and clutch.the only reason I got the 600 is because I got it for the price of the 590.
Stick around youll learn all of the tips and tricks on what were talkin about.;)
 
OP...Pisgah NF is..NOT..at ~ 5000'..it's more like 2500'-3000'.

Hell..Mt. Mitchell is 6,300' and is at least twice as high in the air as you are.

You really need to learn to adjust a carb yourself anyways though..

As the weather in the mountains changes day to day and sometimes hour to hour.

This will walk you through it...http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

J2F
 
Thanks for the link, J2F. I'd stumbled across that Madsen's site before, and it has a TON of info. Carb tuning sure seems like something necessary to learn. (Gotta get a tachometer, cause I sure don't trust my ear!)

Don't want to get into an altitude pi$$ing match, but my MIL's place is off of Rte. 261 on the shoulder of the Roan (6286'), just below Carver's Gap (5500'). And Mitchell is just shy of 6700'. ;)
 
Yes you need to learn it and trust your ear's. You can find the sweet spot by your ear unless your deaf. lol. Like I said it's not hard but takes time to learn.
 
If you could find someone that can show you (so you can hear) what the burbling/4stroking sound is at wide open and then how it goes away and cleans up under load you will not forget it. I know there are some vids on you tube etc. that show this process. Member Bsnelling has one that is good.....maybe a search will come up with it?
Any one close to you that is a chainsaw freak that can help out?
 
I find it can be easier to tune a saw when you next to some wood. On some saws, when turning the screw, the change in sound can be so gradual that it can be hard to tell. When you put the saw in and out of the wood, that change in sound is instant and obvious. The 4 stroking, or burble sound should smooth out the instant you hit the wood, and come back the instant you remove it from the wood. The low screw should be set not so rich that it will load up on fuel and shut off when idling, but rich enough to allow instant acceleration.
 
Thanks for the link, J2F. I'd stumbled across that Madsen's site before, and it has a TON of info. Carb tuning sure seems like something necessary to learn. (Gotta get a tachometer, cause I sure don't trust my ear!)

Don't want to get into an altitude pi$$ing match, but my MIL's place is off of Rte. 261 on the shoulder of the Roan (6286'), just below Carver's Gap (5500'). And Mitchell is just shy of 6700'. ;)
hmm im within spitting distace of you.and yes fellers hes up in the clouds.lol you go to the roan at the right time and you cant see your hand in front of your face.lol im up johnson county if you need some help with tuning.I'm only 2000 ft though.
 
Dont care to help out at all.might even talk spellfeller out of his timberwolf and send him out with some awesome mini macs;):laugh:
 

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