i have been using klotz st in everything 2 stroke , including chainsaws for 10 years zero problems ...don't believe the hype .......... available on amazon and your local bike shops
Amsoil sabor or sthil ultra for hard working saws
- Thread starter Justin Taylor
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Any oil with castor in it will make a mess in short order. For racing and cookie cutting it's fine, maybe ever preferred, Maxima 927 would be my choice there. However for a saw that gets real use those oils make a mess, plus they like to cause corrosion and fall out of suspension in cold temperatures. It's not an appropriate oil for use in chainsaws. This isn't hype or what have you, I've seen the results with my own eyes, other have even document their findings.
I’ll stick with HP2
Just to agree I used a quart of klotz benol. The castor oil doesn’t work well in cold weather. Hard to actually burn it too.
I don’t like stihl ultra. I’d use it in a pinch but I don’t buy it.
I’m running Kawasaki fd rated at the moment. Found it on sale. When it’s gone who knows what I’ll run
Worst I’ve used is Lucas. Lost a rod bearing. My other saws seemed way dry on the exhaust side. Changed from the Lucas to the cheap husky low smoke. Exhaust side then seemed shiny again.
I don’t like stihl ultra. I’d use it in a pinch but I don’t buy it.
I’m running Kawasaki fd rated at the moment. Found it on sale. When it’s gone who knows what I’ll run
Worst I’ve used is Lucas. Lost a rod bearing. My other saws seemed way dry on the exhaust side. Changed from the Lucas to the cheap husky low smoke. Exhaust side then seemed shiny again.
Sounds like a ratio issue with the Lucas. Oil isn’t “dry”
Could be, but he's not the only one to report this. I know the stuff is water thin and has a low flash point. Plus Lucas products are the bottom of the barrel.[emoji111]
I use castor 927 in the summer and amsoil dominator in the winter but that’s mainly because it’s what I use in my dirt bikes
40:1. Piston finally slapped the roof enough to pinch the ring. Since then I do run 32:1 modded saw or stock. Saw in question was a 346 It was ported tuned good. Wasn’t like I scored a cylinder. I lost a bearing.. I’d stay away from the stuff 40:1 should honestly be enough
I had ran probably 7-8 gallons of fuel through a few different saws. They all seemed not lubricated enough on the exhaust side of piston. I don’t pull mufflers to check stuff out but my 272 notoriously rattles the muffler loose so I checked. Didn’t like what I saw. I did a complete tear down on the 346 the case was not lubricated to the level I’d like to see. I need to put that saw back together. I have a new crank just need a piston. Jug is fine
Huskybill
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I used the orginal husky xp oil at 38:1 ratio for decades in the same saws. I think I’m going to run the same ratio with the husky oil. Do I use Xp or Xp+? Is the Xp ok for the newer saws or is the xp + ok for the older saws.
Maxima 927 synthetic Castor blend is used for castiron sleeves.
Maxima super M is used in nickasil cylinders.
My son used his left over 34:1 dirtbike super m mix in his wild thing for two decades and it’s still runs good.
Maxima 927 synthetic Castor blend is used for castiron sleeves.
Maxima super M is used in nickasil cylinders.
My son used his left over 34:1 dirtbike super m mix in his wild thing for two decades and it’s still runs good.
Any benefit of using 38:1 instead of 40:1 or 34:1 instead of 32:1?
We’re talking fractions of an oz..... like what is stuck to the side of the bottle
We’re talking fractions of an oz..... like what is stuck to the side of the bottle
Ok, 2.3 gallons is 294oz. 2.5 gallon bottle of oil is 6.4 oz. 294/6.4= 46:1
Huskybill
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I wash the oil left inside the bottle with gas to get it all.
Last time i used Super M it was orange like K2 and XP was blue. Haven’t used either in a while though
The Super M i had was orange
So is K2, 927 is pretty much clear.
i am a 32 to 1 red armor man.
