Angle at which to sharpen a chain

[atp_08]

Hello, pretty new to chainsaws and cutting. Recently ive been cutting some trees on my land and ive been trying to sharpen the chains myself. I have the correct chain file and a file guide. But my question is, on the guide it has different angle degrees 30,25,20,15,etc. How do I determine which degree to use? Ive searched rhe packages that the chains came in and there is no info, it just tells me which size file to use. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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[Ozhoo]

Welcome to AS. Take a gander at this chart and see if it makes any sense... post your questions.

 

[atp_08]

Is that specific to just oregon chains? And how do i determine depth gauge? Does it have something to do with the number on the chain?

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[Efisher26]

Search hand filing, there's a couple good threads


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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
Husqvarna 36

 

[CR888]

30° top plate hold the file flat and 0.20" depth gauge. Keep it simple and practice technique keeping the file moving in a straight line.

 

[Homelitexl903]

I don't know much compared to the experts on this wonderful forum but your file guide should match an angle line ontop of your Oregon chain. I don't think depth gauge has anything to do with number on chain more with how many files have been done and setting rakers to match. Go easy on this guy fellas. I still suck at hand files compared to experts but get pretty close to perfection from the help of this site...I think, my chips are better than dust.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have been hand filing chains since around 1965 and still enjoy doing them to this day. The top plate angle is kind of subjective to the species of wood and the power of the saw being used along with the type of climate one is cutting in. If there is such a thing the most common top plate angle is around 30 degrees, this is a good starting place for new filers, keeping the cutter size and shape is more important than the actual angle chosen. The relationship between the depth gauges and the cutter teeth is important also, for smooth cutting the depth gauges are best kept between .025 to .030 lower than the cutters, there are simple gauges available for checking these measurements. Once a person advances at hand filing for different types of wood and between frozen winter cutting and milder weather cutting the chain can be filed at different angles to better meet those conditions. Start out keeping it simple and branch out later after you have mastered keeping a chain sharp and consistent.

 

[lambs]

All good advice to which I might add that it is a good idea to get a short length of new chain to keep on your bench as a reference for the amount of hook you are looking for.

I keep one handy to make certain I'm grinding / filing them correctly.

 

[Workin'Rabbit]

My big tip.... Dont let it bother you when you mess up a chain or two

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[Philbert]

How do I determine which degree to use?

Is that specific to just oregon chains? And how do i determine depth gauge? Does it have something to do with the number on the chain?

Welcome to A.S.!

1. For most chains, the manufacturer's recommended filing angles, depth gauge settings, etc., are printed on the boxes that the chains came in, on a piece of paper packed with the chains, or are posted on the manufacturer's website. The numbers stamped on the chains sometimes specify these settings, but usually refer to the manufacturer's model number for that chain. For example, the chart that Ozhoo posted above, shows numbers stamped on Oregon drive links. Figure out if the chain you have is made by STIHL, Oregon, Carlton, Archer (stamped on the chain), or TriLink ('000'), then look for their website. Some chains do not identify the manufacturer, or have the name of the saw company stamped on them.

2. If you don't know, or cannot figure out which chain you have, you can use the 'default' angles that most shops will use when sharpening chains that customers bring in: 30° / 60° / 0°, with a 0.025" depth gauge offset. File sizes are usually 5/32" for 1/4 inch and 3/8 low profile pitch chains; 3/16" for .325 pitch chains; and 7/32" for full size 3/8 pitch chains.

3. One of the advantages of filing / sharpening your own chains is that you can do what you want. E.g., you may find that different angles (e.g. 25° or 35°) work better for certain species of wood, or even different saws, due to their power output. If you don't know, start with the default. If you want to experiment, try changing some of the specs (angles, depth gauge settings, file diameter, etc.) and see if it makes a difference in your cutting, with your saws, and the wood you cut. This is easiest if you have a few chains, sharpened differently, that you can swap out and try side-by-side. Some guys even keep different chains for different types of wood or cutting (e.g. hard wood, soft wood, frozen wood, . . . ).

Good luck, and don't forget to report back!

Philbert

 

[Dave27483]

I have been hand filing chains since around 1965 and still enjoy doing them to this day. The top plate angle is kind of subjective to the species of wood and the power of the saw being used along with the type of climate one is cutting in. If there is such a thing the most common top plate angle is around 30 degrees, this is a good starting place for new filers, keeping the cutter size and shape is more important than the actual angle chosen. The relationship between the depth gauges and the cutter teeth is important also, for smooth cutting the depth gauges are best kept between .025 to .030 lower than the cutters, there are simple gauges available for checking these measurements. Once a person advances at hand filing for different types of wood and between frozen winter cutting and milder weather cutting the chain can be filed at different angles to better meet those conditions. Start out keeping it simple and branch out later after you have mastered keeping a chain sharp and consistent.

Great advice,
I've always sharpened at 30 degrees, but what type of affect would sharpening my 3/8 chain to say 25 or 35 degrees have on cutting speed or longevity of the sharp edge?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I sharpen quite a few chains a week, I use 30* for most chains. 35* for harvester (though I've done 30* too, doesn't seem to make much difference), 10* for ripping chains.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Great advice,
I've always sharpened at 30 degrees, but what type of affect would sharpening my 3/8 chain to say 25 or 35 degrees have on cutting speed or longevity of the sharp edge?

We/I find that hardwood will dull the chain faster than softwood and that a little less angle will help the chain stay sharper longer, good for frozen wood also. The steeper angle will cut faster but dull sooner so its a trade off really. We do find the steeper angles to cut softwood faster but it will dull faster if used for de limbing those softwood trees, using a dedicated felling saw with steeper angle chain works well, use other saws for de limbing.

 

[atp_08]

Thanks for the advice guys. Ive been sticking to the 30° and its been working well. Now i just gotta figure out what im doing wrong when sharpening as it always cuts to the right after

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[Philbert]

Now i just gotta figure out what im doing wrong when sharpening as it always cuts to the right after

Most guys are 'stronger' hand filing on the Right or Left sides. So even if they 'take the same number of strokes' on each side, they tend to take off more on one or the other, leaving the cutters at different angles; at different lengths; or with the depth gauges higher on one side than the other.

Hold a few Right and Left cutters 'back-to-back' and see if they are identical/symmetrical. If you see a difference, you know what to work on.



Philbert

 

[pioneerguy600]

Most guys are 'stronger' hand filing on the Right or Left sides. So even if they 'take the same number of strokes' on each side, they tend to take off more on one or the other, leaving the cutters at different angles; at different lengths; or with the depth gauges higher on one side than the other.

Hold a few Right and Left cutters 'back-to-back' and see if they are identical/symmetrical. If you see a difference, you know what to work on.

View attachment 536174

Philbert

You are right on there, very few people can file accurately, it takes time to learn and one must watch/concentrate on what the file is doing to the metal. Good lighting and sharp eyesight is a must, you have to watch to see how much and where the file is removing metal. I use a couple of cheap calipers for setting the size of the cutters, check them one at a time as I file each one, that keeps them within a couple of thousands size wise of each other. The angle is more difficult to stay consistent with but as long as they are close the chain will cut fairly straight and fast.

 

[Philbert]

I keep saying, "It's not the file or grinder that sharpens the chain - it's the user" The tool does not do it by itself. Helps to stop and inspect each tooth as you sharpen (whatever tool you use). Good lighting helps.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Most guys are 'stronger' hand filing on the Right or Left sides. So even if they 'take the same number of strokes' on each side, they tend to take off more on one or the other, leaving the cutters at different angles; at different lengths; or with the depth gauges higher on one side than the other.

Hold a few Right and Left cutters 'back-to-back' and see if they are identical/symmetrical. If you see a difference, you know what to work on.

View attachment 536174

Philbert

It never ceases to amaze me at how many chains I have seen with one side of the cutters shorter than the other. To me, that means the saw has to be pulling to one side and creating angular or curved cuts. The side with the smaller teeth have to be following the other side unless the rakers are dropped further. I suppose the bar's rails could be out of whack also.

This past summer I saw this several times with a tree trimmer's saw chains. He always cut the same way when close to the ground as he shaved the stumps. The right side of his chains were getting beat up so he file sharpened that side twice as often. His bar's rails were also worn more on the right side. Eventually it was impossible for him to make a typical square bucking cut.

 

[rd35]

Philbert mentioned lighting and I have to agree. I have installed a big task light at my bench that supplements the light on my grinder. Makes a big difference. Especially at my age with my eyesight getting worse every day! Wood Doctor mentioned about cutters being different lengths from one side to the other. At one point in time I was told that it really doesn't affect the cut. But now that I have been sharpening chains for several years I have become convinced that it does! By having the same cutter length on both sides, it makes the chain balanced (left-to-right) and also greatly speeds up the process for setting depth gauges. Also, to me, it just "looks right" when both sides match.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Most would be filers file to much metal, meaning too many strokes on a wood dull chain. Three strokes with a sharp file is all it takes. It's much like making perfect notes on a violin.
You can learn more in 5 minutes watching someone else do it than you could in 5 weeks on your own.
It's really quite easy, it just takes a steady hand and a clear understanding of what should be accomplished.
No exaggerated hook or high gullets.