Another 038av super magnum 2 question

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bobdag

bobdag

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Central washington
So I have a 038av magnum 2 super. Trouble is it's missing a couple things such as the chainbrake and the rear handle and fuel tank are broke. Is it worth fixing if I can find the parts cheap? My main saw is a ms290 with a mm and a larger carb. It's pulling a 25" bar without too much trouble but I need a bigger saw and don't have much money to buy one. Any pointers appreciated!
 
Mad Professor
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So I have a 038av magnum 2 super. Trouble is it's missing a couple things such as the chainbrake and the rear handle and fuel tank are broke. Is it worth fixing if I can find the parts cheap? My main saw is a ms290 with a mm and a larger carb. It's pulling a 25" bar without too much trouble but I need a bigger saw and don't have much money to buy one. Any pointers appreciated!

Look over the powerhead. If P/C is in good condition try find a complete parts saw for the broken/missing parts. It will pull that 25"bar fine.
 
bobdag

bobdag

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Central washington
So I took some picks of the saw. If I order the parts off amazon it's around $130.
The p/c looks great! No scratches at all. The compression is about 120psi without the carb on.
 

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Wood Doctor
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Jan 10, 2008
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Omaha, Nebraska
Many around my area still prefer the 038 mag over the 044/440.
Pound for pound, the 038 Mag was one of the best saws that Stihl ever made. I have no idea why it was discontinued, nor do I know why the 028 Super was discontinued. I suppose my feet are stuck in concrete, but at least that's a firm foundation.
 
Brianlol

Brianlol

Do u see, chainsaws are not just for trees lol
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
435
It's a beaut... I've rebuilt a lot of those.
Just make sure the crankcase has no brakes in it before u start buying parts. EBAY has a tone of stuff on the cheep for that saw
Good luck.
 
Mad Professor
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How accurate is your gauge? 120 psi is on the low side (might just be gauge). Pull the muffler and check P/C. After a real good clean up (pull flywheel and clutch) you might want to consider a set of caber rings with an OEM gasket set so you can do the seals too. Filters if they are worn, plug, fuel implulse tank vent and oil lines. Check the AV mounts before putting on the new tank. Look over carb insides and intake boot and replace the rubber if questionable. The vents on the carb covers eventually let sawdust in and that stops proper pumping, check that once a year or so.

If you R + R that saw it will last you a good long time and will shine in the stuff your 029 struggles with.
 
xPosTech

xPosTech

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Deep East Texas
@Chainsaw Jim do the chainsaw shops up there still have a long row of pass through lockers on the outside wall? I used to log both sides of the Columbia back in the early seventies. Leaving Portland in the wee morning hours and getting home 10-11 o'clock left no time to drop or pick up saws during business hours.

We had a locker to drop off or pick up saws. With our padlock for the outside. Worked out great.

Ted
 
bobdag

bobdag

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Location
Central washington
Ok so I'm sure this has been covered in other threads BUT! What is a good compression for this saw? And what is the proper procedure for doing a compression check? The way I've always done it on saws is 1. Wot 2.check compression on first pull 3.continue pulling until the needle stops moving. Is this correct?
Plus one more thing. Since I'm basically going through this entire saw. Would anyone recommend porting the cylinder? I already plan on doing a mm. Thanks.
Edit:
Also what's the "squish" I always read about?
 

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