Another Splitter Project

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not an engineer

You have some great skills but I'm trying to understand the vertical pieces that you welded in each of these beautiful splitters. When looking at the way the beam works and is stressed under load by the cylinder on top I don't know how they help. Absolutely not knocking you, my junk is ugly.

What I envision is the top flat part is under tension, the bottom flat is under compression and the center is doing most of the work of staying straight. It's like trying to bend a ruler against the flat side versus the edge.

Wouldn't it be better use of your time to weld in a full length straight side onto the beam and box it in. I've drawn what I think but I don't know if it's wise or not. I just can't see how the vertical pieces on the center web are helping anything at all.

Here are my mad paint skills. Help me understand.... The bottom left is end view with the proposed additional sides.
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/Picture201832028Medium292.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Picture201832028Medium292.jpg"/></a>
Could triangulate in between like this.
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/papagrande2001/Splitter%20build/Picture201832028Medium2923.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Picture201832028Medium2923.jpg"/></a>
 
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My buddy, his dad and I had a splitter we custom built with a 10 inch beam. We ended up bowing it and in the end we got another one and boxed it in. problem solved.
 
Thanks, Dave. This one will be mine. It's actually parts left over from the last one as we agreed in the begining. The only difference being the size of the hydraulic systems. His is all 3/4" & this one will be all 1". I'm kind of shooting for speed, hope to get sub 10 sec. times. I've had alot of input from James at Spiltez on the hydro system. he's the Log Splitter Guru in my book, very nice guy & very good prices on his parts.

Hey John, Bring it on buy, always have room for one more. I'm ready to see yours in action.


Rattler05, The main reason for this was to straighten the beam as they where laid of to one side 3/8 ths of an inch the full lenght of the beam. they are 12"s apart because thats all the jack would stand. The gussets are 1"x3" so every 12" there is 6 5/8" of steel conecting the top&bottom 7/8" Tangs. I don't think I'll see any twisting of any sort. I could have built it without it but it would have looked like crap. nothing I would put my name to. Belief me when I say, It was alot of extra work & welding. Every torn up splitter I've seen will either have the beam twisted , or the push plate twisted. Thanks for your concern.
Larry
 
My buddy, his dad and I had a splitter we custom built with a 10 inch beam. We ended up bowing it and in the end we got another one and boxed it in. problem solved.

I don't think you can over build a beam on a splitter ! JMO.
 
The cylinder is 34.5" x 5" x 3" rod with SAE 16 ports & 2" pins. The pump is Haldex 28 GPM with 1" outlet.

Is the wedge just welded on top of the beam or does it go through the beam to the bottom flange,a 5 inch cylinder has lots,a grunt,have seen wedges ripped open when a big tough hardwood stalls out the machine.Here on hardwoods and knotty stuff, wedge thru,welded,incorporated inside beam is best.My first splitter stretched,bowed the beam ,pushed built in wedge and anchor back a little. 5'' ram 3000 psi will do that,if it was welded on the beam only, it would have buckled ,torn the wedge and cylinder anchors. Just my 2 cents :cheers: good lookin unit :chainsawguy:
 
Progress pics

Got the log lift finished. I'll start on the outfeed table next, mount the hydraulic tank, motor & valves then be close to paint.
 
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