Any body a 028 guru

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sawboss

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I’ve just did a rebuild on an old 028av wood boss and when I say old I mean it’s got the muffler that has a side bolt in it. The saw was pretty much toast with crank bearings completely gone crank seals was obviously shot and piston and jug was done so I brought it back as an028super it does run like a scolded dawg out of the cut but it doesn’t have the grunt to it I think it should have in the cut and another thing is I’m not sure if the clutch is bad or what but I can’t idle it down enough to make the chain stop even hitting the break on it kinda pulls the engine which was making me lean towards the clutch on that problem I topically stay with the bigger saw so I’m out of my know with this one any help or advise would be appreciated
 

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Well, if you replaced the crank seals and the impulse line and intake manifold are good then it should not be leaking anywhere.. If the clutch springs are weak it could spin the chain all the time, but that would not account for power in the cut.

Would be interesting to know what you rebuilt it with. Sometimes aftermarket kits just don't have the port timing to make the power of OEM.
 
Certainly no 028 or 028 Super expert..... but .....
When you rebuilt the saw- did you replace the AV mounts? That can make the saw floppy and might explain the behaviour you are seeing when the brake is applied.

If you can turn the idle screw and the revs noticeably drop off to the point of stalling the engine and the chain is still turning, I would be suspecting worn clutch and or clutch spring if the chain was still turning when the saw was near stalling.
Slipping clutch will give you the symptoms in the cut- if the chain is slowing and stopping but you did not drop the revs off.
 
Well, if you replaced the crank seals and the impulse line and intake manifold are good then it should not be leaking anywhere.. If the clutch springs are weak it could spin the chain all the time, but that would not account for power in the cut.

Would be interesting to know what you rebuilt it with. Sometimes aftermarket kits just don't have the port timing to make the power of OEM.
 

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Well, if you replaced the crank seals and the impulse line and intake manifold are good then it should not be leaking anywhere.. If the clutch springs are weak it could spin the chain all the time, but that would not account for power in the cut.

Would be interesting to know what you rebuilt it with. Sometimes aftermarket kits just don't have the port timing to make the power of OEM.
Honestly can’t remember what it was it no doubt has horrible numbers in it I didn’t even degree it I suppose I’ll take it back apart and check the timing and see what I can do with it.
 
Ah, Chinesium!!! That explains a lot.

I've had a 028S since the 1980s. They have torque compared to new saws, but you still have to rev them in the cut.

If you want torque for that size saw try a Homelite Super XL with reed valve engine.
 
Ah, Chinesium!!! That explains a lot.

I've had a 028S since the 1980s. They have torque compared to new saws, but you still have to rev them in the cut.

If you want torque for that size saw try a Homelite Super XL with reed valve engine.
That saw has a 3/8 chain on it which I thought would be a bit much
 
Certainly no 028 or 028 Super expert..... but .....
When you rebuilt the saw- did you replace the AV mounts? That can make the saw floppy and might explain the behaviour you are seeing when the brake is applied.

If you can turn the idle screw and the revs noticeably drop off to the point of stalling the engine and the chain is still turning, I would be suspecting worn clutch and or clutch spring if the chain was still turning when the saw was near stalling.
Slipping clutch will give you the symptoms in the cut- if the chain is slowing and stopping but you did not drop the revs off.
All new rubber
 

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