calebng15
Always lookin' for somthing to cut!
Look like it worked! Anybody else do theirs this way, using the same wheel?
Anybody grind their rakers like this?
- Thread starter calebng15
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Look like it worked! Anybody else do theirs this way, using the same wheel?
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Yep. Every other day. I put the angle on the wheel tho with a stone. Easier to get yer depth adjusted that way.
calebng15
Always lookin' for somthing to cut!
That is how I do mine too. Guess I was wandering if anybody uses the same wheel.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Guess i didn't notice the type of wheel. I use a cheap 1/4" wheel for rakers.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Set your gauge on the chain, bring the wheel down, and then set the stop. Ready to grind.
I found the arms on these grinders flex a lot, even if you baby them, so they are somewhat inaccurate. If you fave a bunch of chain you're options are limited, and these grinders will work well enough for a regular chain if you're careful.
So true, I try to 'feel' the flex and try to put consistant pressure but its far from dead accuracy! As u say for a bunch of chain (usual) they get the job done fast with fairly good results, but I hate the angle/shape of depth gauge once done. I now after every few depth gauge adjustments re-shape and set a 7°ish anngle on the gauge tops which takes time and can be annoying at days end. Between polesaws, limbing, top handles & bucking saws in ozy wood, 5-15 chains is not unusal after work. I shake my head remembering when I'd do them all by hand at night (& enjoy it lol). Nowdays a chain gets about 2 minutes on the grinder and thats it!
This is a bit different than the OP, but it works for me and I don't change wheels or the slant angle after I sharpen the cutters:
Great info guys.
Do you find that it is necessary to turn the chain the other direction for the small offset, or do you set up somewhere between to keep them the exact height.
I have done it just like the video ever since I got my grinder and now have a grinder(tecomec fl 136)devoted to rakers that saves the set up evertime.
I just picked up a super jolly the other day and it would be nice to sell my third grinder instead of having one devoted to rakers.
Do you find that it is necessary to turn the chain the other direction for the small offset, or do you set up somewhere between to keep them the exact height.
I have done it just like the video ever since I got my grinder and now have a grinder(tecomec fl 136)devoted to rakers that saves the set up evertime.
WD that is a great tip, will try that. Do you you turn the vice for each side, or do them all from one side.
I just picked up a super jolly the other day and it would be nice to sell my third grinder instead of having one devoted to rakers.
I've been doing the raker thing for a couple of years now.
its dedicated to it's job.
one grinder for each job.
its dedicated to it's job.
one grinder for each job.
I use trial and error to attain the correct depth on the first tooth using the same machine and wheel as I use to sharpen the cutters. Feeler gauges and a straight edge work best for me. I set the head up to 90 degrees (vertical), adjust my depth stop until my wheel is .025 lower than the highest point on the tooth's cutting edge, and then I flip the chain stop over out of my way and I push each tooth under the wheel thereby grinding each depth gauge to the correct depth. The key to success on this is to be sure each cutter is sharpened identical to the others so that the cutter height is consistent. Been doing it this way for years now. But I have to be careful to not push the tooth too far which would result in the cutting edge touching the wheel and dulling the tooth!
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Minimal flex in a decent grinder. I suppose if you really man handle it you can get several thou of flex.
I u se a 1/4" wheel for rakers, grinder set at 90* and 0* on the table.
I u se a 1/4" wheel for rakers, grinder set at 90* and 0* on the table.
This is the way I would also prefer to do it. I hope to get a second grinder soon as I don't want to have to swap wheels all the time...which is why I just use the sharpening wheel (1/8") and slide the rakers under it to lower them.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
I do both my 3/8's and 3/4 chains on this Oregon 510, once it's set up it works great just have to be easy on the stop.
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LoveStihlQuality
Addicted to ArboristSite
So is the angled wheel to help keep original raker shape?
I do both my 3/8's and 3/4 chains on this Oregon 510, once it's set up it works great just have to be easy on the stop.
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LoveStihlQuality
The right side of the wheel drops the rakers from cutters on both sides of the chain. The opposite side works on the cutters only unless you remove the wheel and flip it over. I can't remember ever doing that. My procedure works for me but it's never been approved by anybody, nor has anyone admitted to me that they have copied it. I thus consider it a procedural invention.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Its pretty well parallel with the front being a touch lower.
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bitzer
******** Timber Expert
I set my grinder at 90 and just give the wheel a little shape.
fearofpavement
Trying them all
I didn't know there were so many methods of grinding rakers. I do mine differently than any ways I see here.
