Anybody try a long bar on an MS-461 ? Not enough range in tensioner

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naturelover

naturelover

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Unless its the camera angle, it looks like the 261 tensioner has a longer groove in it than the 461, extends further from the outer stud.

Maybe try the 20" bar on both and compare where the tensioner is?
 
speeco

speeco

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Something has got to be wrong , with the tensioner screw, not threaded all the way,or the wrong one? Have also seen where the tensioer will bind up,yes even on a new saw.
 

s219

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Would you be willing to reconfirm the sprocket on the 461 is correct?

Maybe pull it off and snap a couple of photos?

I think my wife will kill me if I go outside one more time tonight, but I vividly recall the rim sprocket being stamped 7 - 3/8 when I looked at it last time.
 

s219

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Unless its the camera angle, it looks like the 261 tensioner has a longer groove in it than the 461, extends further from the outer stud.

Maybe try the 20" bar on both and compare where the tensioner is?


I just scaled both photos the same in photoshop and overlaid them, and the 261 slot is indeed a little bit longer, giving more range of adjustment to push the bar out.
 

s219

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Something has got to be wrong , with the tensioner screw, not threaded all the way,or the wrong one? Have also seen where the tensioer will bind up,yes even on a new saw.

That was my first suspicion, but once I pulled the cover plate off the tensioner, I could see that it was all the way against the stop. You can see it in that second photo. It turns smoothly forward and back, but runs out of room going forward.
 

s219

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put a 8 pin on it and go to work



Can you elaborate on that? Will the 8-pin have enough of a larger diameter to take up the extra slack in the chain?

What about performance -- wouldn't an 8-pin increase chain speed and reduce torque??

If an 8 pin solves the problem and won't noticeably deteriorate cutting performance, then it's fine with me -- could be an easy solution!
 
fearofpavement

fearofpavement

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Even though the bar says it is supposed to be 91 drive links, if a 91dl chain is too long, it isn't too difficult to figure out that a shorter chain is going to be needed to use that bar on that saw. Pretty much anyone that sells chain makes them off a roll. Just get a shorter chain and make some chips. When you get additional chains in the future, get 90dl or 89dl or whatever works for that bar/sprocket/saw combo.
 
PA Plumber

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I never got warm fuzzies running an 8 pin with longer bars (and full comp chain) on 70cc range saws. (Maybe the 461 can handle it just fine.)

Might be okay at 24" or shorter, but 28" is starting to get out there a bit.

Please keep in mind, this is personal preference of a wanna-be woodcutter type user.
 

s219

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Even though the bar says it is supposed to be 91 drive links, if a 91dl chain is too long, it isn't too difficult to figure out that a shorter chain is going to be needed to use that bar on that saw. Pretty much anyone that sells chain makes them off a roll. Just get a shorter chain and make some chips. When you get additional chains in the future, get 90dl or 89dl or whatever works for that bar/sprocket/saw combo.

Unfortunately, my local dealer does not make chain -- they specifically told me they don't do it because of liability issues -- so they had to order these stock 28" chains for me from Stihl (they also had to order the bar). I know that sucks, but I don't want to be fighting this issue every damn time I need to find a chain.

I could buy the tools to let me modify the 91 D/L chains down to 90 or 89, which may be the easiest way to live with the issue. But I think I need to give Stihl some grief, since this should be working out of the box according to their specs.
 

s219

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I never got warm fuzzies running an 8 pin with longer bars (and full comp chain) on 70cc range saws. (Maybe the 461 can handle it just fine.)

Might be okay at 24" or shorter, but 28" is starting to get out there a bit.

Please keep in mind, this is personal preference of a wanna-be woodcutter type user.

That's my concern, not having any experience. There's no question that will reduce torque in the cut.

I just did the math, and the 8-pin sprocket will only take up about 3/16" more slack in the chain. I don't even think that will solve the problem in this case (it would be marginal). It really needs to offset 3/8" at least.
 
albert

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The machined slot in the 461's crankcase looks shorter in your pics. Take everything back to the dealer and let them and Stihl resolve it.
 
fearofpavement

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Unfortunately, my local dealer does not make chain -- they specifically told me they don't do it because of liability issues -- so they had to order these stock 28" chains for me from Stihl (they also had to order the bar). I know that sucks, but I don't want to be fighting this issue every damn time I need to find a chain.

I could buy the tools to let me modify the 91 D/L chains down to 90 or 89, which may be the easiest way to live with the issue. But I think I need to give Stihl some grief, since this should be working out of the box according to their specs.
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A dealer that won't make chains up? Very interesting...Not too helpful in a situation like this I guess.

Breakers and spinners are nice but not necessary for breaking and mending a chain. If you can get a couple repair links from the dealer (they should give them to you since they don't use them) you can grind off the rivet heads, punch out the rivets and seat the repair link rivets with a small hammer. I've done it a number of times with satisfactory results.
 
Andyshine77
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First if you're dealer doesn't spin chain you need a new dealer. My guess is they don't know how to spin chain and they likely don't have the proper tools. On top of that they don't seem to stock common chain sizes, to me that means they're not a dealership.

What you have is a 24" bar and a 28" chain, the bar was simply marked incorrectly.
 

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