Anyone else building log homes?

[Metals406]

I know someone that's gonna be sick of reading a tape measure here in about a year!

Looking good!

 

[TraditionalTool]

I know someone that's gonna be sick of reading a tape measure here in about a year!

Looking good!

*lol* yeah, could be...although you really don't need to measure too much when cutting the dovetails. It's mostly in using a level, and dropping the slope down 1" in this case. For wider logs 1.5" could be used, but my logs are only 8" thick.

When you put the top log on, you do measure the sides of the bottom dovetail to make sure it is the same height, and just connect the dots, if that makes sense.

There is plenty use of a tape measure though, in setting up the pads and such.

Each log takes a while though, as you might guess. Hopefully it gets a bit quicker as I get more experience.

Regards,
TT

 

[Metals406]

*lol* yeah, could be...although you really don't need to measure too much when cutting the dovetails. It's mostly in using a level, and dropping the slope down 1" in this case. For wider logs 1.5" could be used, but my logs are only 8" thick.

When you put the top log on, you do measure the sides of the bottom dovetail to make sure it is the same height, and just connect the dots, if that makes sense.

There is plenty use of a tape measure though, in setting up the pads and such.

Each log takes a while though, as you might guess. Hopefully it gets a bit quicker as I get more experience.

Regards,
TT

Yup, you'll get a little faster as you go, but hand hewn takes a lot of time, even for an experienced crew.

Keep a good pace, but don't try and rush... That's when mistakes happen... And, unlike welding, you can't add wood back once it's gone.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Fitting some full size logs on the sills!

Yup, you'll get a little faster as you go, but hand hewn takes a lot of time, even for an experienced crew.

Keep a good pace, but don't try and rush... That's when mistakes happen... And, unlike welding, you can't add wood back once it's gone.

Well I kinda did just that today as I cut over one of my lines, so knocked the log down and cut it again.

There's always mo' wood, just like there's mo', just like there's always mo' metal...:biggrinbounce2:

These were cut to length, and are supported to mark the dovetail, and the top dovetail was marked also and I will cut those in a cradle on the ground before placing them on the sill.

Cheers,
TT

 

[TraditionalTool]

And that is how it goes together...kinda...

 

[Metals406]

Looking good so far... Those chink lines are going to be cool looking too.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Looking good so far... Those chink lines are going to be cool looking too.

Yes indeed they will! The log craftsman I'm working with is a real craftsman to build like this. The timbers are certainly the biggest I've worked with.

Getting pretty comfortable with the chainsaw. I'm using a Husky 345 with a sharp blade to do most of the bucking and dovetail cutting, but use a Husky 142 with a dull chain for brushing the cuts. That seems to be a good combo. The 142 with the dull blade is great for brushing.

I have a Husky 336 back at home, I should have shipped it out here, but was lazy. *lol* I'm using all of my friend's tools.

Cheers,
TT

 

[Metals406]

Yes indeed they will! The log craftsman I'm working with is a real craftsman to build like this. The timbers are certainly the biggest I've worked with.

Getting pretty comfortable with the chainsaw. I'm using a Husky 345 with a sharp blade to do most of the bucking and dovetail cutting, but use a Husky 142 with a dull chain for brushing the cuts. That seems to be a good combo. The 142 with the dull blade is great for brushing.

I have a Husky 336 back at home, I should have shipped it out here, but was lazy. *lol* I'm using all of my friend's tools.

Cheers,
TT

A good slick would do wonders for high spots as well... Although, I'm guilty of using the chainsaw for as much as I can get away with.

www.caribooblades.com

 

[TraditionalTool]

A good slick would do wonders for high spots as well...

We do have a slick, but I've been using a 2" Barr framing chisel, it's fairly large.

Today I had the tail from hell...this is the 3rd time I cut this side of the tail...

Ever have one of those days?

Cheers,
TT (with a whipped tail tonight...)

 

[Metals406]

We do have a slick, but I've been using a 2" Barr framing chisel, it's fairly large.

Today I had the tail from hell...this is the 3rd time I cut this side of the tail...

Ever have one of those days?

Cheers,
TT (with a whipped tail tonight...)

I have 'one of those days' EVERYDAY! LOL

Had me one today just to stay in rhythm.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I have 'one of those days' EVERYDAY! LOL

Had me one today just to stay in rhythm.

Metals,

That makes me feel better, at least I'm not the only one like that...*g*

This is tough work, no doubt...moving the timbers around, and fitting them, I think, you might be right...before long I'm gonna be sick of measuring...hehehe...

Cheers,
TT (more whipped but not washed up)

 

[TraditionalTool]

Added a couple 28 footers!

This was over the past couple days, with some help on one of the logs, and a lot of fix-it help with my work! *gd&r*

 

[TraditionalTool]

Another 32 foot log on the front wall...

Made some more progress, and got another 32 foot full length log on the front wall. One more full length 32 foot log along the rear wall. or what will be facing the lake. That is how the starter will ship to Cali. The rear wall is in the center right of the picture, closest to you.

 

[demographic]

A good slick would do wonders for high spots as well... Although, I'm guilty of using the chainsaw for as much as I can get away with.

www.caribooblades.com

The Bloke who makes those exact slicks goes on another forum I use, seems like a nice bloke to deal with from what I have read and he's certainly friendly enough.

I sometimes use a drawknife when cleaning up old oak beams for old houses, they are pretty good for taking high spots down to size also.
I have one that looks like it was made by a blacksmith out of an old file but recently had the chance to borrow one of the folding ones which is pretty much exactly like this one....

Its one of the better designs because it protects the blade when its kicking about in the toolbox and its quick and easy to move the handles round to the several usable positions.
Since then I have been keeping my eye on Ebay for one but the only ones I have so far seen were in the US and a bit too spendy for my current budget.
For some reason I find it quite therapeutic sitting on a beam and using a drawknife.

Scott.

 

[Metals406]

The Bloke who makes those exact slicks goes on another forum I use, seems like a nice bloke to deal with from what I have read and he's certainly friendly enough.

I sometimes use a drawknife when cleaning up old oak beams for old houses, they are pretty good for taking high spots down to size also.
I have one that looks like it was made by a blacksmith out of an old file but recently had the chance to borrow one of the folding ones which is pretty much exactly like this one....

Its one of the better designs because it protects the blade when its kicking about in the toolbox and its quick and easy to move the handles round to the several usable positions.
Since then I have been keeping my eye on Ebay for one but the only ones I have so far seen were in the US and a bit too spendy for my current budget.
For some reason I find it quite therapeutic sitting on a beam and using a drawknife.

Scott.

I've seen those old folding knives at auctions here quite a lot... There pretty much a dime a dozen... A very neat old tool for sure. I own two or three 'English style' draw knives that are from the 1800's, but I rarely use them.

Anymore, I just make my own draw knives, slicks, gouges, chisels etc.

Do you do Timber Framing over in the UK?

 

[demographic]

Do you do Timber Framing over in the UK?

I don't really do timber framing myself (although I am a self employed carpenter) but have recently been working on a 400 year old house that has an oak trusses and purlins so I had to clean up the timbers.

Plus my first job when I left school was working in an architectural salvage yard and we used to clean the woodwormy sections off oak beams for re-sale.

That was before I got into welding and weld inspection which its self was just before the backside fell out of engineering over here and I ended up re-training as a carpenter

Theres a lot less timber framing in general over in the UK for some reason and we generally go for brick, stone or block built houses.
Timber framing is gettimg more popular but its planed all round timber with oriented strand board covering then either a brick skin on the outside or timber clad, I don't think I have ever seen a proper log cabin in my life.

 

[TraditionalTool]

Scott,

I've seen those drawknives, and have used one or two of them. I prefer the stationary handles for working, but covering the blade is a great use of the handles when not drawing!

The one I was using this week was made from an old chipper blade, but the guys at the yard I'm working at like the Barr drawknives. They had sent them back to Barr to get sharpened with a new hollow grind and one needed a handle.

Here's one of the corners that was cleaned up a bit, still needs a little more cleanup...

Regards,
TT (flying home tomorrow...missing his wife and kids )

 

[demographic]

Scott,

I've seen those drawknives, and have used one or two of them. I prefer the stationary handles for working, but covering the blade is a great use of the handles when not drawing!

The one I was using this week was made from an old chipper blade, but the guys at the yard I'm working at like the Barr drawknives. They had sent them back to Barr to get sharpened with a new hollow grind and one needed a handle.

Here's one of the corners that was cleaned up a bit, still needs a little more cleanup...

Regards,
TT (flying home tomorrow...missing his wife and kids )

Neat joints, do you put a vertical peg down through the dovetails as well?

I've never seen any of them being done over here.

Also how do you trill out for the doors and windows, do you do it from the start or do you cut them out after the outside is built and then trim the casings into it?

 

[Metals406]

I don't really do timber framing myself (although I am a self employed carpenter) but have recently been working on a 400 year old house that has an oak trusses and purlins so I had to clean up the timbers.

Plus my first job when I left school was working in an architectural salvage yard and we used to clean the woodwormy sections off oak beams for re-sale.

That was before I got into welding and weld inspection which its self was just before the backside fell out of engineering over here and I ended up re-training as a carpenter

Theres a lot less timber framing in general over in the UK for some reason and we generally go for brick, stone or block built houses.
Timber framing is gettimg more popular but its planed all round timber with oriented strand board covering then either a brick skin on the outside or timber clad, I don't think I have ever seen a proper log cabin in my life.

That's funny... I do welding, log work, and general carpentry as well.

Never hurts a guy to be diversified!

 

[TraditionalTool]

Neat joints, do you put a vertical peg down through the dovetails as well?

I've never seen any of them being done over here.

Also how do you trill out for the doors and windows, do you do it from the start or do you cut them out after the outside is built and then trim the casings into it?

For the most part the windows and doors are left out as the logs are placed down. The open space on the long wall under the 32 foot log is for the front door, and the rear has 2 sets of french doors, so that is 12 feet of log, and would require quite a bit more.

The 32 foot logs going on the 2nd/3rd course (however it is counted, there's the sills) are being left full length to give the building good support once I get it back together after I ship it home.

And, funny you ask about the pins, normally it is not needed, but we are going to put pins in each of the dovetails so that when I reassemble it they will be put back as they are now.

This is the most incredible project I have taken on in my entire life. I will leave this home to my wife and kids after I am gone.

I have never worked with such big timbers like these pine logs, but it is great fitting them together. When a joint fits, it's magic! Watching a 3000# log being dropped in place and seeing the joint close up is really a thrill...

Regards,
TT