Anyone tried the M18 Millwauke electric chainsaw yet ?

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I am glad I bought it though, because it is convenient, easy to use and I sometimes cut my wood to long and it needs to be cut again during winter months . Having a cordless electric allows that to be done, without the hassle of mixing up gas/oil just for a few minutes of use/ cutting.

This is one reason my Stihl gets used so much. Need to trim one little 3" limb ? If not for the Stihl I would probably be fighting with my cordless Sawzall with a pruning blade. It would do the job but quite a pita. The Stihl probably takes less than 30 secs. Small cut on the bottom then over to the top and zip, done. Go put the saw up, finished. It's that simple. If I had to use one of the gas saws it would take 3 times as long to do the whole job.
 
This is one reason my Stihl gets used so much. Need to trim one little 3" limb ? If not for the Stihl I would probably be fighting with my cordless Sawzall with a pruning blade. It would do the job but quite a pita. The Stihl probably takes less than 30 secs. Small cut on the bottom then over to the top and zip, done. Go put the saw up, finished. It's that simple. If I had to use one of the gas saws it would take 3 times as long to do the whole job.

Yeah....Ive watched videos on your stihl, and was very impressed. It looked like it cut better then my CS300, but the 1 thing that sold me on the CS300, is the built in sharpening system.

May I ask how much you paid for your stihl kit and what type battery came with it ? Have you tried to cut aged hickory or eucalyptus with it yet ? For woods like cedar, pine or other softwoods, the CS300 cuts like a dream but all my wood is for heating and therefore is hardwood.
 
Yeah....Ive watched videos on your stihl, and was very impressed. It looked like it cut better then my CS300, but the 1 thing that sold me on the CS300, is the built in sharpening system.

May I ask how much you paid for your stihl kit and what type battery came with it ? Have you tried to cut aged hickory or eucalyptus with it yet ? For woods like cedar, pine or other softwoods, the CS300 cuts like a dream but all my wood is for heating and therefore is hardwood.
It was $300 with a free quart of Stihl Premium bar oil. I most cut green soft woods. Poplar, sweetgum, pine, the occasional dogwood.

I sharpen my chains with a Dremel tool and their chainsaw sharpening attachment. I can put a super sharp edge on a chain in less than 5 mins. If I need to lower the rakers that might add another 5 mins.
 
It was $300 with a free quart of Stihl Premium bar oil. I most cut green soft woods. Poplar, sweetgum, pine, the occasional dogwood.

I sharpen my chains with a Dremel tool and their chainsaw sharpening attachment. I can put a super sharp edge on a chain in less than 5 mins. If I need to lower the rakers that might add another 5 mins.

what type of battery..as far as volts/ ahs ?

You burn much sweetgum ? I always thought sweetgum was a hardwood...just real stringy/wet though.
 
Yeah....Ive watched videos on your stihl, and was very impressed. It looked like it cut better then my CS300, but the 1 thing that sold me on the CS300, is the built in sharpening system.

May I ask how much you paid for your stihl kit and what type battery came with it ? Have you tried to cut aged hickory or eucalyptus with it yet ? For woods like cedar, pine or other softwoods, the CS300 cuts like a dream but all my wood is for heating and therefore is hardwood.

Does the self sharpening system hit only the tops of the cutters or also the sides? Based on my metal cutting tool sharpening if you have a good traditional grind or file sharp on that chain you ought to be able to get 2-3 topping sharpenings out of it before you need to go sharpen it the normal way. But if it's not hitting g the side plate too you probably aren't getting all that great of a corner on it so cutting performance with each auto sharp is going to degrade. So I bet if you took a file to that thing you'd get it cutting as good as his stihl.
 
what type of battery..as far as volts/ ahs ?

You burn much sweetgum ? I always thought sweetgum was a hardwood...just real stringy/wet though.


I don't have a fireplace or wood burning stove. I do have a well used fire spot in my glade though. I have a heavily wooded suburban acre and it seems like there is always something needing cutting up or cutting down. Hurricane Irma supplied the big stuff in this pic. The Stihl cordless did most of the limbing but the 20" Stihl 039 did the real work. Can't burn here from May through Sept so I am getting this big burn crypt ready for fall. I only burn when it's under 55 degrees anyway so no real loss.

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I don't have a fireplace or wood burning stove. I do have a well used fire spot in my glade though. I have a heavily wooded suburban acre and it seems like there is always something needing cutting up or cutting down. Hurricane Irma supplied the big stuff in this pic. The Stihl cordless did most of the limbing but the 20" Stihl 039 did the real work. Can't burn here from May through Sept so I am getting this big burn crypt ready for fall. I only burn when it's under 55 degrees anyway so no real loss.
jxXcc5e.jpg


LZT0Hg1.jpg
frDTztY.jpg

what kind of wood is that in the bottom photo? looks like it would be welcome in my woodpile but then I don't know **** from shinola about what grows in Georgia.
 
Does the self sharpening system hit only the tops of the cutters or also the sides? Based on my metal cutting tool sharpening if you have a good traditional grind or file sharp on that chain you ought to be able to get 2-3 topping sharpenings out of it before you need to go sharpen it the normal way. But if it's not hitting g the side plate too you probably aren't getting all that great of a corner on it so cutting performance with each auto sharp is going to degrade. So I bet if you took a file to that thing you'd get it cutting as good as his stihl.

You may want to ask PHIL, about the self sharpening system. Im not very familiar with it since this is a new saw and Ive only used it for a short time. I think it sharpens the tops and also will grind down the rakers if they become to tall.
 
what kind of wood is that in the bottom photo? looks like it would be welcome in my woodpile but then I don't know **** from shinola about what grows in Georgia.
I'm pretty sure that was a poplar. Here is some figure at the base. You can see the green color in the heart wood. It's either a palm tree or a fireworks going off. Of course, once the slabs dried out the beauty was gone.


OpKBmjM.jpg
 
Does the self sharpening system hit only the tops of the cutters or also the sides?

The PowerSharp chain can be used on any 3/8 low profile chain saw if you buy the kit. The Oregon saws have it built-in, which is a bit more convenient.

You can also run any 3/8 low profile/ 'Picco' chain on any PowerSharp equipped saw; just do not use the sharpener.

The PS cutter does not have a conventional 'side plate' due to its unique profile, but its equivalent edges do get sharpened by the stone.

More details in these threads:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-powersharp.125402/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/powersharp.148391/

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-power-sharp-any-good.211415/

Philbert
 
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