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That's an awesome pile of pecan, BillStuewe. :rock:

An acquaintance in Houston was telling me that many of their trees are dying due to the drought. Mostly oak. Are you getting a lot of drought-killed trees in your part of Texas.
 
That's a good way to do it. I'm still tossing around the idea of a slow motion electric winch that will pull 1-2" per minute. Maybe a DC VFD? Some of the winch speeds I've looked at are too fast at their slowest. What I'm trying to establish here is to free up one hand for I get mightly thirsty with the sawdust and all :msp_biggrin: . That is some knock-out wood there Bill. Hats off to ya!
 
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I fear that almost all my red oak are lost to the drought. The elm and ash will drop their leaves, go dormant and com back but I have not seen the oak do that--they just die. These pecan trees were last years drought kill--this year is much worse. There will probably be more trees than I can possibly mill next year.
 
Can I get some better pictures of someone's set up like this. I would like to see how the reel is set up. I've been thinking about setting up a manual winch like this but I always prefer to look at others ideas before I actually go ahead and do it. Pushing the mill through big wood really can beat someone up.
 
OK, I haven't tried it, and call me Mr negative if you like, but my first impressions and concerns are. . . . .

- the arm positions still don't look all that comfortable and would be even more awkward with a big log esp when cutting the first few slabs since the operators arms would be too high and the powerhead would be in the operators face.
- the sawdust seems to be dropping continually on the operators left boot - I just hate that.
- It's harder from that position to see the outboard side of the mill and bar ie aux oiler operation
- If the log rolls I'd prefer to already be on my feet than sitting down, that also includes sitting on the log itself. Also standing up would enable an operator to more easily prevent a small log rolling.

or maybe I'm just jealous I'm not milling :hmm3grin2orange:

. . . . What I'm trying to establish here is to free up one hand for I get mightly thirsty will all the sawdust and all:D.
You need a throttle lock and a drink bottle carrier on your mill or you belt.
 
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Can I get some better pictures of someone's set up like this. I would like to see how the reel is set up. I've been thinking about setting up a manual winch like this but I always prefer to look at others ideas before I actually go ahead and do it. Pushing the mill through big wood really can beat someone up.

If you are beaten up by pushing a CS mill your setup is not right.
Before worrying about a winch I'd be addressing things like chain sharpness, cutter profile and raker setting.
When the most tiring thing about CS milling is moving the cut timber you know your setup is right.
 
It don't beat me up. If anything I gain strength. I wouldn't be too concerned about Bill's setup. Look at the chocks. That log isn't going to roll anywhere.
 
What beats me up is the vibration from the mill to my right hand. I know keeping the saw sharp is key. Maybe my main problem is time. When I go out to where I mill I pretty much have the saw running full out 6-8 hrs only stopping for fuel and to sharpen. One day I cut 104 one inch thick spruce planks. All the logs were 10 feet long and 16-20 inches around. My friend helped load the truck and with setting things up but I ran the saw. If I'm working the saw that much wouldn't some type of winch help?
 
You're dang tootin' a winch would help. In yesterdays time they drove the spikes for the railroads by hand. They sawed logs by brute strength/manpower. Not to be getting soft by any means but if there is a way to do this easier then by all means lets do it! End result is what we strive for and everything in between is what we live for.
 
thepheniox, your pics are here--3rd post down
http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/135039.htm
And don't, pay any attention to BobL, you know he is "down under" and he admits he is jealous.
Seriously, The crank is extremely easy. I am cranking with two fingers,and when I need a push handle as at the beginning and end of the cut, the location of the crank is perfect for that too--much better than the one that comes with the mill. And at the end of the log when the log is getting lite the log tends to move when you push the saw and with the crank, the forces oppose each other so the log stays in place.
BobL, you are being negative, When I started on the log and it was at a comfortable standing height I cut standing, but when the stoop over or crawl cutting arrives, I prefer to sit and roll. And the seat also swivels. I would not recommend this setup if the seat did not swivel.
As pointed out, the log is chocked well and does not roll.
I have an air compressor to blow the sawdust off my boot--it does not get in the boot.
I'm 6' and can see the other side of the mill just fine--notice there is no oiler. I find them a great pain and have no problem with the saws oiler turned up all the way (Now this is bound to start a world of debate!!!)

Now BobL, you said you were going to come to Texas and teach me how to mill the correct way--when are you going to do it?
 
Quote "notice there is no oiler. I find them a great pain and have no problem with the saws oiler turned up all the way (Now this is bound to start a world of debate!!!)"
I don;t have a choice as of yet. No internal oil system whatsoever. I like looking at the reservoir and can see it dripping on the B/C. No way would I jeopardize the setup with an internal pump failure or lack of oil thereof.
 
Bill, thanks for posting the pics. The one with you standing behind the log with the blue frontend loader gave me a serious flashback of my Dad. Put a Ford decal on the loader and paint the Stihl red and put Super 1050 stickers on it, and you could pass as brother. Kinda made my day and cheered me up a little. In the past week we had one of our Eagle Scouts die of a heart attack at 18, and my cousin died of MS at 53 years old. Thanks again, Joe.
 
Bill, great set-up! For all those naysayers, the crank is an amazing way to move the saw through the wood. It gives good feedback and your saw does not slip down a slope. I have tried both ways and I prefer the crank. I modified my set-up this spring by moving the rope down to pull from closer to the bar (thanks Bob!). In addition, I added a horizontal beam at the end of the log (wider than the log and below the cut). From that beam I have 2 arms that extend out from the end of the log by 6-8". These arms have open pulleys at the end. The rope goes from the power head to the 2 pulleys and then back to the tip of the bar - all pretty much in the same plane. Using this set-up, I am able to crank right through the end of the log without any twisting of the bar. These are not new ideas, just to me! Sorry, no photos just yet.

Steve.
 

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