Bar and Chain Do Not Fit … what am I missing?

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kirkdb

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Oregon 200RNDD009 .050" Gauge 3/8" Pitch 20" Power Match Bar , White​

Archer 20" 3/8-050-72DL Ripping Chainsaw Chain Replaces 72RD072G A1EP-RP-72E​


My saw is a d009 drive sprocket. But forget about the saw for a second. The chain fits a little tight in the bar groove. Even just hanging the chain loosely on the bar, it doesn’t slide by hand. I bought two of the chains and I am tempted to open the second one just to see if I was sent a mislabeled chain. Help :)
 
Do you have set of calipers or micrometer to measure the chain with.Is it hanging up all around the bar or in certain spots?
 
singinwoodwackr said:
Well, heck…now you’ve made me go out and mic it, lol…

ok….050 😁
Click to expand...
See what trouble I cause. Us newbies are terrible :)

I worked it by hand off the saw with the chain hanging loose on one side just to try and loosen it up. Oddly my nose sprocket is bleeding grease. My other Oregon bar (on my husky 450R) I didn’t notice all the grease but had no issues with it or the archer chain I put on it. Unfortunately it’s .325 so I can’t swap things around. The chain on this 3/8 bar runs around the sprocket quite easily. It’s when I try to move it through the bar itself that it’s hard to move.

I did notice the groove in the sprocket seems slightly wider than the groove in the bar. Not sure if that’s normal.

I’ll work it by hand a little more this weekend. When I first had it on the saw it wouldn’t spin it. Not wanting to burn up a clutch or ruin a bar I pulled it off and started giving it evil thoughts to no avail!

Appreciate everyone’s response, confirming the chain is indeed correct. Im sure I’ll get it spinning with more confidence now that I won’t screw something up :)
 
My new Oregon bars all have pretty greasy noses so I wouldn’t worry about that. I’d run it a bit and then check tolerance, sometimes the paint is a little thick or your bar was machined a hair small. Run the chain on the slack side for a few cuts and then check. If it gets super tight or hot on the bar take it off and reevaluate.
 
Karrl said:
My new Oregon bars all have pretty greasy noses so I wouldn’t worry about that. I’d run it a bit and then check tolerance, sometimes the paint is a little thick or your bar was machined a hair small. Run the chain on the slack side for a few cuts and then check. If it gets super tight or hot on the bar take it off and reevaluate.
Click to expand...
Makes sense! Thanks.
 
Wider sprocket groove is normal.

I had this happen awhile back. If you're running a heavily worn sprocket, it will peen the drive links and form a crazy bur on the bar, effectively making the groove narrower. Sounds backwards, but that's what happened. The combination was kind of working, until I tried a new bar with the old chain. Thought sure the new bar was undersized.

The worst part is that it's like a disease. You COULD put on a brand new chain, but the old rim will infect it. You COULD throw on a new bar, but the old chain will infect it. etc. You have to "pull out and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure."

Check your drive rim/spur and for wear.
 
Backstage said:
Wider sprocket groove is normal.

I had this happen awhile back. If you're running a heavily worn sprocket, it will peen the drive links and form a crazy bur on the bar, effectively making the groove narrower. Sounds backwards, but that's what happened. The combination was kind of working, until I tried a new bar with the old chain. Thought sure the new bar was undersized.

The worst part is that it's like a disease. You COULD put on a brand new chain, but the old rim will infect it. You COULD throw on a new bar, but the old chain will infect it. etc. You have to "pull out and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure."

Check your drive rim/spur and for wear.
Click to expand...
Sounds a bit like marriage. Hah.

Brand new ball and chain … err … bar and chain. I’ll check the bar for straightness tomorrow (see if UPS gave me a left or right turn bar). If it’s straight I’ll try the other chain (ordered two). I also have a 16” 3/8 050 bar I can test fit the chains on to see if they are tight. Hopefully narrow this down to a chain issue or a bar issue. Thanks for the feedback. Just watched a video on the bur issue when I saw your reply. If all else fails … will go thermal nuclear baby!
 
kirkdb said:

Oregon 200RNDD009 .050" Gauge 3/8" Pitch 20" Power Match Bar , White​

Archer 20" 3/8-050-72DL Ripping Chainsaw Chain Replaces 72RD072G A1EP-RP-72E​


My saw is a d009 drive sprocket. But forget about the saw for a second. The chain fits a little tight in the bar groove. Even just hanging the chain loosely on the bar, it doesn’t slide by hand. I bought two of the chains and I am tempted to open the second one just to see if I was sent a mislabeled chain. Help :)
Click to expand...
Correction. You have a large mount Husq/Jonsered saw, as per the D009 mount pattern, which has zero to do with chain gauge.

Clean the bar slot, and dress the rails.
 
Captain Bruce said:
Correction. You have a large mount Husq/Jonsered saw, as per the D009 mount pattern, which has zero to do with chain gauge.

Clean the bar slot, and dress the rails.
Click to expand...
Opened up second chain (was originally hesitant in case I ordered the wrong chain) and it works perfectly. I did run a feeler gauge through the bar and there were no rough spots. Used a .025 + .026 and it slid perfectly all around. I’ll reinspect the first chain now that I know it was the issue but suspect it will be going away to the land of returns :)
 
kirkdb said:
Opened up second chain (was originally hesitant in case I ordered the wrong chain) and it works perfectly. I did run a feeler gauge through the bar and there were no rough spots. Used a .025 + .026 and it slid perfectly all around. I’ll reinspect the first chain now that I know it was the issue but suspect it will be going away to the land of returns :)
Click to expand...
Cheap is not always a bargain.
 
The number of drive links matter, too. A similar bar length on Husqvarna may need a higher or lower count. My Archer chains are quite good, but I prefer Oregon. Sharp is what counts most, but only when you have the right size. Read the stamped number on drivers and count them, then cross reference. When in doubt, that's what I do.
 
looks Like it has a burr on drive link that might be causing issue. Either not deburred from manufacturing correctly. Or I have seen chains that come off saw right away and also burr links-might be a returned chain?7090549C-67B2-4898-93C7-FD8B30565296.jpeg
 
kirkdb said:
Agreed. However, Granberg chains were weeks out and will be picking up a couple of them down the road. But a cheap chain in hand is better then no chain ;)
Click to expand...
Yes I will go with that, it's like the old saying any oil is better than none... or like my engineering father in law used to say, any tool is better than no tool. But we know the right one makes life a little easier 😊
 

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