Bar dresser?

[Colonel428]

Who uses one of these to be able to give real world feedback? I've just been using a flat file to take off any lip that forms on the edges of my bars. Wondering if a dedicated bar dressing tool is that much better. Thanks.

 

[holeycow]

I used a mill bastard for years. Then I realized I could use my ski edge sharpener tool. Duh. It works well and is just easier overall. No braincells or eyeballs involved. Just slide it along...

 

[trains]

Its handy compared to using 2 sq blocks each side of the bar rails to hold a 2nd mill file to get even bar rails.
for the edge and side of the rails, I still use a normal file and around the sprocket end as well to take off the edge and give a chamfer.

 

[Brushwacker]

I like mine for touchups. Works well for routine maintenance to keep the rails dressed and square if done before they get very bad. If the rails are badly wore or damaged I use a bench grinder first. I don't think the bench grinder is the best choice, but it works for me.

 

[snobdds]

I used a mill bastard for years. Then I realized I could use my ski edge sharpener tool. Duh. It works well and is just easier overall. No braincells or eyeballs involved. Just slide it along...

I use my snowboard edger from the 90's. Never did I thought at 16 I would eventually dual purpose it for chainsaw bars. It's well made and works perfectly.

 

[Evan]

80grit flap disc on angel grinder is all i use.
No reason to put to much thought into it.

 

[Bill G]

I have a few Silvey Bar Shops and a Oregon that take care of dressing

 

[singinwoodwackr]

1x30 belt sander…most used tool un my shop. Can be found under $100. The delta is better made than som of the knock- offs. Very small footprint compared to the 1x42s.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I used an angle grinder with a flap disk and eye balled them for a long time. Now I use a 4” belt sander and it’s super fast and does a perfect job.

 

[HumBurner]

Pfered makes a hand-held rail dresser with a two-sided, ribbed flat file. Handy for bar dressing in the field.

I've found that somewhat regular use of the dressing tool goes a long way in preventing burrs on the sides of the rails. When they do occur, they are smaller and easier to file out with a standard flat file.


Only downside is the holding mechanism can come free after several swipes, so you have to make sure the holder hasn't slipped or else you'll drop the file.

 

[Seachaser]

Flat file then a belt sander.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Easier and faster essentially on long bars. Once you own one and use it when things get funky you see areas a file won't show you that are not "square" anymore. Belt sander is the fastest way to deal with half trashed bars that show up. Getting the rail 90° is paramount 89° is my limit. 88° or more waving side to side just adds friction in your rail slot and pushes off your bar oil where you need it most on the chassis base and the driver sides.

 

[pioneerguy600]

One of these machines makes bar maintenence rather easy to square up the rails and remove burrs, a bigger unit is even better,

 

[JD Guy]

I use the bar dressing tool from Stihl. Works well for truing and taking burr off the side. YMMV

 

[Captain Bruce]

I like mine for touchups. Works well for routine maintenance to keep the rails dressed and square if done before they get very bad. If the rails are badly wore or damaged I use a bench grinder first. I don't think the bench grinder is the best choice, but it works for me.

Agreed! When a saw comes in with a worn bar, I too use a quick scuffing with my grinder wheel. I then measure to rail depth for spec. If its okay, I clean and paint the bar, install new OEM bar decals, and gift the customer with the Green Bar Dressing Tool, sold on eBay.

I find that honesty going in, assures the customer that IF the bar is no longer true, worn down rails, unsafe to re-mount.......they cheerfully go and buy, and new guide bar.

 

[LuDookie]

Usually by the time a flat file doesn’t do the trick, I’ve got my money’s worth.

 

[GrizG]

I use a single cut mill file and my eyecrometer to draw file the bars. Haven't had any issues.

 

[djg james]

Agreed! When a saw comes in with a worn bar, I too use a quick scuffing with my grinder wheel. I then measure to rail depth for spec. If its okay, I clean and paint the bar, install new OEM bar decals, and gift the customer with the Green Bar Dressing Tool, sold on eBay.

I find that honesty going in, assures the customer that IF the bar is no longer true, worn down rails, unsafe to re-mount.......they cheerfully go and buy, and new guide bar.

Those generic green bar dressing tools off ebay and amazon are good?

 

[Evan]

My most used bar i bought 15ish years ago.
Never check **** it keeps cutting seems to cut decently straight if i do my part. Pretty sure at the rate i cut itl last forever.
It is showing some tip wear or just back from tip from loose chain harmonics

 

[Rags]

I use a 4" bench grinder stone with a 1/2" bolt and bushings to make it fit, then chuck it up in my drill press.
I set the table on the press at the correct height to keep the bar at 90 degrees to the stone.
The best part for me is I can adjust the speed to my liking and to suit the courseness of the stone.
One thing to watch out for is the sprocket tip. I usually start at the nose of the bar to make it easier to not bump the sprocket on the stone.
After squaring the rails I use a file to take off the burr on the edges.