Bar dressing

[Philbert]

I heard that the Pferd tool started out being for ski edges.

Philbert

 

[buzz sawyer]

I picked up a used table saw and keep a grinding wheel on it. Works as well as the sanding disc and lasts longer. I have the speed down within the range of the wheel.

 

[67L36Driver]

Old table saw w/7” angle grinder disc. Gets the really worn bars true. Finish with a cutoff disc to smooth it up.

Total investment: Zip!

Yes, empty the saw dust first!

 

[Philbert]

Here are some photographs from Will Malloff's book Chainsaw Lumbermaking (1982)

Low tech method for holding file at 90°

\
Low tech rail leveling (Skilsaw held in vise)



Low tech deburring and bar finishing (belt sander)



Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

Got this off eBay, about 5$, with spare files just under 10$.
Tried it on my Dolmar branded Oregon bar off my PS-6400 and was surprised that the quite coarse looking file actually took a bite at the bar rails.
It may not be perfect but it works good enough to beat freehand dressing.
I have only tried it on one bar so far so I don't know how it will hold up long term.

 

[Beer Gut]

Lol I must be archaic. 2 blocks of wood and bastard file for square. Angle grinder and flapper wheel for burr. This won't fix a belly but if it gets that bad if usually bent it too. New bar

 

[Philbert]

Got this off eBay, about 5$

I ordered one too (clone of the Oregon / STIHL branded models) along with a Pferd model to compare.

Some people have commented on the differences between the files (coarseness, hardness, life) as well as the style of the holders.

I don't know (yet) if the files are interchangeable.

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I just cannot understand how so many guys believe a square bar, has nothing to do with a saw cutting straight. Plus those rolled edges slow your cut. Use Pferd file on bars when changing to a new chain at least, or when needed. Cannon bars are a little harder to square, but also need it much less.

 

[Philbert]

I just cannot understand how so many guys believe a square bar, has nothing to do with a saw cutting straight.

Or how those burrs can lacerate!

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Or how those burrs can lacerate!

Philbert

You will only run your fingers down the bar or rotate the chain holding onto bar once. I have felt your pain.

 

[Philbert]

. . . rotate the chain holding onto bar . . .

I like to push the rear of a cutter with the end of a scrench.

Philbert

 

[Beer Gut]

Does it need to be that fancy buying special tools? Serious ?. Thought I was ok as stated above.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Does it need to be that fancy buying special tools? Serious ?. Thought I was ok as stated above.

No sir. Your method works fine also. I use an angle grinder also.

 

[Philbert]

Does it need to be that fancy buying special tools?

Just need to find something that works for you.

Some might depend on how far you let your bars go: regular 'touch up', or reconditioning a used bar from a farm auction.

I mostly used a file and a vise, but once I tried the Oregon tool I really liked it. I also help maintain bars and chains for some volunteer groups, so I'm interested in ways to occasionally 'process' a lot of bars, or a few that are heavily worn.

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

For the individual that takes care of his own saws, even if they see heavy usage the simple devices will be sufficient. For Philbert that sees many more bars, including some that receive serious abuse the more sophisticated tools could be in order. I collect a lot of saws and many of them have suffered serious neglect, being able to clean up a bar in just a few minutes and have a perfectly square edges means the bar rail grinder is a real timesaver for me.

I have the Pferd tool and do use it on occasion, but the bar rail grinder always ready to go gets a lot more use. I modified my to accept a larger wheel since the original size of the wheel that comes on the device is somewhat unique. Now I have a lot of options when is comes to replacing the wheel as needed.

Mark

 

[Philbert]

. . . the bar rail grinder is a real timesaver for me . . . I modified my to accept a larger wheel . . . Now I have a lot of options when is comes to replacing the wheel as needed.

You know that comments begs for a photo! Just a larger guard?

Is there a spec for the alternative wheel to make it easier for others to find?

Thanks!

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

I'm working from memory here so that puts me at a disadvantage. I believe the wheel supplied on the unit from Baileys is 3-1/2" diameter, I was able to get a couple of 4" diameter wheels from a vendor we regularly work with at my real job. Seems the 4" wheels are routinely available from a number of suppliers and in a range of grit and bond variations. The wheels that come with the bar rail grinder and replacements from Baileys are almost as fragile as sandstone and don't last very long.

As you can see, the guard was large enough to accommodate the larger diameter wheel but the table needed the opening to be widened and deepened a bit. Perspective is difficult to achieve in the photo, the grey wheel in the unit and the white wheel on the table are exactly the same size, the brown wheel on the left is the original equipment type.



I also had to make a bushing to fit the new grinding wheels to the shaft of the grinder as the opening in the wheels was much larger that the motor shaft on the grinder. That was a very simple piece to make with my little bench top lathe.

Mark

 

[Philbert]

Thanks Mark. That is very helpful, and looks like a fairly easy mod. The availability of more common sized wheels, and a wider range of grits / bonds is also an advantage. The bushings might be a little more more of a challenge for someone without a lathe; do wheel suppliers sell these also?

Philbert

 

[heimannm]

I didn't check into commercially available bushings but I have my doubts that they are available for use with this particular wheel since they fairly specific in their design and purpose. The larger wheels that were given to me are 4" diameter x 2" deep x 20mm hole. There are 4 x 1-1/2 x 1/2 wheels commercially available that should be a bolt on replacement if you simply widen the opening in the table for the wheel. As best I can determine the original wheels are 3-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/2 so the depth (1-1/2") and the hole (1/2") would be the same.

Mark

 

[scottr]

Mark, what rpm does your bar dresser run ?