Bar Oil

[manual]

Yea A dull chain will burn the wood.
So the question is Who sharpened the chain? watch how you cut through dirty wood.
or are you using used motor oil?

 

[Rspike]

I don't Know where MY Jonsered Dealer got this bar oil at.
It reads Poulan Pro Bar and chain oil comes in a black jug. and is dyed red.
Very good stuff. Funny thing was The dealer said it is the same as Echo's Bar oil. Hmmmmmm?

Good input. Thats the same stuff i use ( Poulan Pro Bar and chain oil ) I do thin it a little in the winter otherwise its great stuff.

 

[sunshineband]

Stihl Oil

I have been using Wal-Mart bar oil, thinking they are all the same.

Are you telling me I could cut twice as fast if I would pay 10x for bar oil?

 

[SWE#Kipp]

A fact

I have been using Wal-Mart bar oil, thinking they are all the same.

Are you telling me I could cut twice as fast if I would pay 10x for bar oil?

Yes it's a fact that the more you spent on bar oil the faster your saw will cut !!
just ask the big oil company's they will verify it

/Kristoffer

 

[MS-310]

What about 80w90 gear lube for bar and chain oil.

 

[spacemule]

but some of the wood I was cutting took me a full tank of gas for 4 cuts..

I'm glad I didn't have a drink in my mouth. . .

 

[coveredinsap]

As you can see gslam88, Talking about bar oil can and will open a can of worms.
The end result is however Use a good high tack bar oil. And stay away from your local grocerie stores' Veggie Oil.
Welcome to the site.

Not true. Regular corn oil works just fine. Even the purported 'hardening' or 'clogging' of the oil if it sits for a while isn't an issue, as the saw heating up solves that purported 'problem' post haste.

It sounds like something else is/was going on (other than oil type) causing the wood to blacken.

 

[sunshineband]

clarification

Not true. Regular corn oil works just fine. Even the purported 'hardening' or 'clogging' of the oil if it sits for a while isn't an issue, as the saw heating up solves that purported 'problem' post haste.

It sounds like something else is/was going on (other than oil type) causing the wood to blacken.

covered,

are you saying i could use plain old grocery store corn oil? that would certianly be welcome news

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Oh boy, here we go again. But why?

.

 

[04ultra]

Anybody try both out yet...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Seriously, Stihl bar oil is only $7.95 a freaking GALLON...

.

 

[coveredinsap]

covered,

are you saying i could use plain old grocery store corn oil? that would certianly be welcome news

Yes you can. That's exactly what I'm telling you. Don't let all the bs fool you regarding 'tackifiers', etc. Just plain 'ol corn oil works great....it doesn't even have to be a name brand

And the benefit is, you're not dumping harmful oil all over the place wherever you cut or sit down your saw. That in itself should be worth trying it out. You can always switch back if it doesn't work for you, although i can't imagine why it wouldn't.

 

[MS-310]

what about soy bean oil???? You know the same stuff you would make bio fuel with.... Its kinda cheap if you buy it in a some what large amout at a GFC. (still want to know if gear lube is any better then bar and chain lube or worse?) thanks
Jack

 

[cuttinscott]

Gear Lube 80-90?????

But why would you want to starve your expensive chain saws oil pump?? the viscosity should not be any thicker that 30 weight Gear lube by best is 3 times thicker than recommended. Example try to suck a thick cold milkshake through a straw, or suck a milky shake through the same straw see how much easier your oil pump can draw the oil?

As far as soy oil or corn oil it is useless unless you add tackifiers if you want biodegradeable B/C oil buy it from a saw mfgr. Then you know it will work proper. As far as home brew oils those BIO DIESEL fellas will need all the Soy they can get their hands on lol.

Scott

 

[coveredinsap]

what about soy bean oil???? You know the same stuff you would make bio fuel with.... Its kinda cheap if you buy it in a some what large amout at a GFC. (still want to know if gear lube is any better then bar and chain lube or worse?) thanks
Jack

I have no personal experience using soybean oil in chainsaws as a bar oil, only corn oil. But I believe that I have seen here where others have used it as a bar oil with no problems.
Maybe someone who has used it could help you out here, or maybe try the forum search feature.

Again I'll repeat....I think the 'tackifier' thing is bunk. I've noticed no real difference cutting with regular bar oil or corn oil. If anything the corn oil seems to keep everything oiled better, as it is thinner and appears to flow quite well. The only thing you need to watch with a thinner oil is that you don't run out of chain oil before you run out of gas....and with an adjustable oiler that wouldn't be a problem, just turn it down.

 

[ShoerFast]

Sunshineband

This guy just simply has no clue according
to many!

Yes you can. That's exactly what I'm telling you. Don't let all the bs fool you regarding 'tackifiers', etc. Just plain 'ol corn oil works great....it doesn't even have to be a name brand

And the benefit is, you're not dumping harmful oil all over the place wherever you cut or sit down your saw. That in itself should be worth trying it out. You can always switch back if it doesn't work for you, although i can't imagine why it wouldn't.

By all means run your own test, but you will notice more wear at the "heel" of the cutters (the area that rides on the bar as the cutter rocks back in a cut) and more drive-link "rounding' and sprocket wear simply because real oils hold up better under extreme pressures.

There are some very experanced operators here that can get away with lesser oils,,,, but there is really no one that will tell you veggie oils are better

 

[Lakeside53]

Everyone new just ignore sap; the rest of know the truth as to his experience level. He been on this vege oil thread before (maybe in the milling section) - just search for that one and read the comments. Anyone can run a saw once in a while and think it's running great with just about any oil, but try it over time and you'll see the results.

Specifically, there is more to bio bar oil than just the tackifiers - there are other additives to stop it turning into a hard resin as it reacts with wood resins and sunlight

So before this turns into the usual Sap baiting/batting/hating BS thread, lets just gather some real work experience at using this stuff.

Here's mine:

I used bio on and off for a couple of years. In the past two weeks I (with a couple of other people and saws) used 10 liters of of bio bar oil - Stihl brand. Bio was needed because of the sensitive area (some cutting in and over water) and although it was adequate for most of what we were doing, it definitely does not resist heat and tough cutting conditions as well as regular bar lube. Cutting big Doug fir left a black cruddy residue of carbonized material on the chain. Reverting back to regular lube and it all cleared up. Seemed o.k. in maple and alder. I definitely won't mill with it though.
It did work pretty well a not leaving a big oily sheen on the water. Any sheen came from the oil in the gas.

 

[spacemule]

There are actually others on the board who like vegetable oil and are actual pros. Tom Dunlap is one.

 

[cedarbarn]

I used that little Homelite just this weekend on some oak. Works like a champ too. That has to irk you Stihl fanboys...the Homelite still works like brand new while the former Stihl 390 is buried somewhere in Stihl heaven pushing up chainsaw daisies. Ouch!

Is this the homelite you are running?

I made the mistake of buying a Stihl MS 290. After a long hot day of cutting trees on a home building site it lost all compression. Plastic is just not a good conductor of heat. The rings were one with the piston.

I run an MS 440 with 24" bar, and 32" bar. I have found that the lighter weight oils work fine for short work in cold weather, but for long work the Motion Lotion stays sticky when the saw and bar are hot. I have not tried the vegetable oils.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Hey there Cedarbarn !


Way to hit the ground running!