Bars with built in tensioner.
- Thread starter Mange
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
DanMan1 said:My little Poulan/Craftman has finally been struck with the classic deadly "bar studs thru the plastic case" virus.Fish, do they make any special 'bar stud band-aids' ?
bad...
Sap needs to see this!
Bar Studs
Dan , would you give the sears model number so I can look up the bar studs ?
Dan , would you give the sears model number so I can look up the bar studs ?
rbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Scott, I need a couple parts for a Craftsman/Solo 651....As hard as it to find Solo parts around here, it might be easier to get them from Sears. Can you help me, or direct me to your parts list/source? It is model number (71) 35201. I need the safety lever lock part of the throttle trigger, and a couple muffler bolts and gasket. I'd like to sell the saw, it's a strong runner, was modified by Dennis Greffard....a well built saw..though less powerful than my modded 346, Dolmar 5100 or Shinny 488.
Are people using breaker bars to tighten the bar nuts down, jeez. Just how much psi pressure does it take to ruin a saw bar stud like this guy did. What psi is suppose to be put on a bar nut to tighten the bar down? I just lightly snug the bar nuts down.
Solo Parts
Roger , I was going to go to sears.com and click on the parts look up with the model number to look up the stud . Have you looked up the IPL on the Solo website ? I believe your saw is the 651 SP .
Roger , I was going to go to sears.com and click on the parts look up with the model number to look up the stud . Have you looked up the IPL on the Solo website ? I believe your saw is the 651 SP .
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Maybe I missed something here, but that saw does'nt need new bar studs - it needs a new case!
Studs
I believe Poulan changed the head on the stud and I wanted to see which design caused the crankcase to break .
I believe Poulan changed the head on the stud and I wanted to see which design caused the crankcase to break .
Saw
Thanks Dan . The IPL shows that the bar bolts have small square heads . How many hours would you say are on the saw ?
Thanks Dan . The IPL shows that the bar bolts have small square heads . How many hours would you say are on the saw ?
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
DanMan1 said:My little Poulan/Craftman has finally been struck with the classic deadly "bar studs thru the plastic case" virus.
DanMan1,
Thanks for posting the picture.
I did not see a screw tensioner on the saw in the picture.
Were you using an Intenz bar?
What saw chain p/n were you running on the saw?
What is the model number of the saw?
I've had it for 6 or 7 years. The first years I used it for cutting 5+ cords of wood each year, then I bought a 357xp, so I have since used it only for limbing and dirty/wet cutting. It came with an 18" Intez bar ( which I still hate ). That bar died, so I put on a 'normal' 16" bar. Some might think that is what caused it, but I believe the normal 16" bar stayed adjusted just as good as the Intez 18"( which was not very long), and I never cranked on the nuts. I always used moderate torque with the stock bar wrench.
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
When you put on the "normal bar" did you also put on a screw tension adjuster on the saw?
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
What chain did you run on the saw?
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
Come on DanMan1, fess up. What chain type did you use and was there a screw tensioner used with the "standard" bar?
DanMan1 said:I've had it for 6 or 7 years. The first years I used it for cutting 5+ cords of wood each year, then I bought a 357xp, so I have since used it only for limbing and dirty/wet cutting. It came with an 18" Intez bar ( which I still hate ). That bar died, so I put on a 'normal' 16" bar. Some might think that is what caused it, but I believe the normal 16" bar stayed adjusted just as good as the Intez 18"( which was not very long), and I never cranked on the nuts. I always used moderate torque with the stock bar wrench.
Husky make a whole range of repair kits... Part Nos. 142, 353, 359, ...
Same with Stihl... 210, 260, 290, ...
Just transfer the fuel, oil, and stickers over from your existing saw.
You have a cheaper saw with a broken crankcase. It's a goner. Getting someone to fix it will cost you more than a new saw.
If you want to fiddle about with saws, you should be able to pick up a dead parts saw of the same model. Most dead little saws won't have the bar studs problem - more likely they've been run with no oil!
As for the cause of the breakage, could the saw have been dropped? A longish drop with the impact onto the bar could've done this...
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Just curious OE. If the saw came with a intez bar and he did switch to a regular bar and not put the screw adjuster in and just pulled out and up on the bar, then tighten the bar stud nuts down and Just say he was running 3/8LP 91 oregon safety chain. How would not having the screw adjuster cause this kind of damage? Got me wondering on this one.Oregon Engineer said:
Oregon Engineer
ArboristSite Operative
Cut4fun,
Even with safety chain, the bar will slip (cutting on the tip speeds it up) if it is only held by the stud nuts (I know you will not believe me, I didn't believe the engineer who told me, until I tried it and lost the bet). So the operator will apply more torque to the stud nuts in an attempt to keep the bar in place. Depending on the stud design, eventually enough torque will pull the studs through the plastic case.
Even with safety chain, the bar will slip (cutting on the tip speeds it up) if it is only held by the stud nuts (I know you will not believe me, I didn't believe the engineer who told me, until I tried it and lost the bet). So the operator will apply more torque to the stud nuts in an attempt to keep the bar in place. Depending on the stud design, eventually enough torque will pull the studs through the plastic case.
