Basic "Blueprinting" steps

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Jim Mesthene said:
He's increased displacement and he's hogging out the muffler, and he's ruled out porting. What's left that will produce significant gains? Nitro?


I dont think Davefr is discouraged from doing modifications. He is doing his homework and looking at pro's and con's. I bet he gets around to doing some work on them when he has his act together.

What will produce significant gains? good sharp chain or square ground which yields 15 to 25 percent quicker cut times.
 
Using the throttle trigger produces infinitely quicker cut times. (These statistics with no reference tickle my funny bone).
 
Spacemule is more correct than some of us may realize. I have seen saws whose throttle linkage was either too short or too long, thus preventing full throttle. Once fixed a signifacant gain will be noticed.
Using partial throttle habitualy will create carbon and eventually engine failure.
Motors tend to fail more out of neglect than they do out of any well thought out mods.
John
 
I am surprised none has mentioned getting a bigger chain sprocket if one is available for this saw. This is one of the easiest way to get faster chain speed out of a saw. I drive my Sthil guy nuts asking for 8 tooth sprockets for any saw that will take them. 6 and 7 tooths are common, but put an 8 tooth on one and see the difference it makes especially if you do some of these minor mods to the muffler and ports, makes one good work saw if the chain is super sharp.

Larry
 
Ax-man said:
I am surprised none has mentioned getting a bigger chain sprocket if one is available for this saw. This is one of the easiest way to get faster chain speed out of a saw. I drive my Sthil guy nuts asking for 8 tooth sprockets for any saw that will take them. 6 and 7 tooths are common, but put an 8 tooth on one and see the difference it makes especially if you do some of these minor mods to the muffler and ports, makes one good work saw if the chain is super sharp.

Larry

How much of a "difference" in speed is it between an 8T and 7T?

Regards

Joseph
 
I wish I could answer your question in timed cuts, maybe someone here can answer, my problem is having a second person with a stopwatch to time cuts.

There is a definate difference in the speed of the saw going through a cut.

The best anology I can give you is if you have always ran round chain on your saw and then for the first time switched over to chisel chain, that is the kind of increase you get a smoother faster type cut. Makes you see what you have been missing.

The saws that seem to benefit the most from a bigger sprocket are the ones that run a 24" in and smaller bar.

Larry
 
I've had an 034 super (which is what he is building) for about 15 years. I run a 7 tooth with a 20 inch bar. No way the saw would pull an 8 tooth with a full house square chisel chain buried in hardwood. I do run an 8 tooth on my 064 with a 24" bar.

If you're going to run a 16" bar, maybe an 18", especially in softwoods, the 8 tooth might work okay
 
An 8T may give more chain speed out of the wood, but will it give more chain speed in the wood? Not likely for such a small saw. The torque of a 7T may be better.
Even West Coast fallers using modded 066's still use the 7T for the extra torque it affords. The 7T also causes less chain derailments then the larger 8T due to bar heel conformity.
It may be a 6 of one, half doz. of the other depending on chain type, bar length, cc's and raker height.
John
 
To further the arguments on 7 verses 8 tooth:

It all depends on the cut width... On an 034S if you're cutting 8 inch wood with a 16 inch bar, 8 will work fine. If you're cutting 22 inch wood with a 24 inch bar, even full skip won't help an 8 tooth sprocket.

Ideally for fastest cut you need the saw to be able to pull the max power RPM while cutting the desired wood. For a given chain if it can on a 7, try an 8. If it won't on a 7, try full skip chain. etc etc..

For an 034 or 36, max permissible WOT is 13,000, max power is at 9500, and max torque is at 6500 (numbers reprinted without permission from Stihl ;) )
 
I figured you'd been spanked - your last few posts have been so articulate and thoughtful, at first I thought some has stolen your handle. Never mind, I'm sure it won't last :D
 
Lakeside53 said:
To further the arguments on 7 verses 8 tooth:

It all depends on the cut width... On an 034S if you're cutting 8 inch wood with a 16 inch bar, 8 will work fine. If you're cutting 22 inch wood with a 24 inch bar, even full skip won't help an 8 tooth sprocket.

Ideally for fastest cut you need the saw to be able to pull the max power RPM while cutting the desired wood. For a given chain if it can on a 7, try an 8. If it won't on a 7, try full skip chain. etc etc..

For an 034 or 36, max permissible WOT is 13,000, max power is at 9500, and max torque is at 6500 (numbers reprinted without permission from Stihl ;) )


If you are talking about running a 24" bar on an 034............why would you even bother?
 
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Rich is correct, it's a dorky sort of thing to do to put a huge bar on a tiny saw. Only the west coasters do that! :blob2:
If fact, do the reverse, put a 16" bar on your firewood saw regardless the cc's. I like a 16" bar on an 066 for cutting firewood. I even used a 16" on a 3120 but the 3120's rattle to shreds after only 50 cords or so I wouldn't buy one of those if I were you.
John
 

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