Best break in procedure??

[Little Al]

I never switch between oils regardless. I stick to one brand usually

"Ah" but have you chosen the best brand/ratio

 

[Little Al]

The #of guys who treat a saw as a living being amazes me a saw like any other mechanical contrivance is an inanimate object it neither knows nor cares if it's running dino or whatever oil fuel etc if the settings are as near to or at the optimum settings it will run better than if adjusted a bit "off'" a viewing of the kit & practices used by fallers in Indonesia & the like shows what can be achieved with "Crappy " kit this includes saw,fuel etc.

 

[echomeister]

So I usually break in a saw by just cutting little stuff for the first tank, 6 " dia limb. No hard cuts for the first tank.
So whats the worst long term that could happen by extreme babying of the saw for the first tank.
Had a dealer advise me to start the saw the first time and rev it full throttle out of the cut for 30 sec to seat the rings, I didn't listen to that.

 

[Canyon Angler]

So whats the worst long term that could happen by extreme babying of the saw for the first tank.

With other gas engines (not specifically chainsaws) I always heard that during break-in, you should vary the speed and load, with brief runs at full load and speed. The risk of babying a motor too much on break-in, as I understand it, is that (with synthetic oil, for example) you can glaze the cylinder wall before the rings get a chance to seat. And if you don't bring the motor up to full speed, you can get problems because the piston isn't actually traveling the full stroke that it would at full speed, when intertia would carry it higher and lower in the cylinder than it would go under a light load at low speed.

This isn't saying that you should beat the crap out of it on break-in – the added friction is likely to make the saw HOT if you do it too much – but you shouldn't baby it too much, either. Engines are made to do work, and the sooner they get used to it, the better.

I'm not an engineer or anything, but that's what I've heard FWIW.

 

[Jonny Quest]

For break-in, I run 40:1 with 90+ ethanol-free fuel and Klotz 2-stroke oil. I also tweak the High needle to be a tad richer. Then I run it like I stole it.

After 3 or 4 tanks, I run 50:1 Klotz 2-stoke oil an re-set the High needle to "normal" running and don't look back. This method has served me well.

JQ

 

[1Alpha1]

It wasn't until I became a member of this site, that I came to realize that what I had been doing for the past 55 yrs. or so, when buying and using O P E, that I had been doing it all wrong.

Oh well, it's probably too late to change my ways by now.

 

[JimM]

It wasn't until I became a member of this site, that I came to realize that what I had been doing for the past 55 yrs. or so, when buying and using O P E, that I had been doing it all wrong.

Oh well, it's probably too late to change my ways by now.

Yep. Too soon old. Too late smart. I’m in the same boat.

 

[Eric howes]

I set the high speed jet on the rich side and run it normal. After 5 or 6 tank and lean it out a tad and every tank after that I lean out until I'm at the proper adjustment. That's all I have ever done with chainsaws anyways. High performance snowmobile and dirtbike engine are a different story

 

[Little Al]

So I usually break in a saw by just cutting little stuff for the first tank, 6 " dia limb. No hard cuts for the first tank.
So whats the worst long term that could happen by extreme babying of the saw for the first tank.
Had a dealer advise me to start the saw the first time and rev it full throttle out of the cut for 30 sec to seat the rings, I didn't listen to that.

In answer to the 2nd line of your post nothing providing it's tuned not to lean richening up a tiny bit will give peace of mind good you were deaf to the advice of the 3rd line of your post

 

[CR888]

Here is an article I read years ago that helped me better understand break in. Its about the best no BS description of what takes place, how it is achieved and WHY. Wives tales are debunked with correct explanation. Many car/bike tuning rules don't translate well with chainsaws but the rules of break in apply in most all combustion engines. Go for it!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[rayjay257]

On an OPE motor with a plated bore there is basically no break in. Let it warm up, set it up a bit rich and then do some cutting. No extended wide open big cuts for the first few cuts but after that there's nothing in there that will "wear in". IMO, there are two things that really extend the life of any motor. #1 is letting it warm up. The tolerances of the motor were chosen for max power and max life at full operating temperature. Making the motor work while the cyl is cold and the piston hot [ i.e. not warmed up ] means less piston clearance and more chance of scuffing the skirt. Also, full atomization of the fuel only happens in a hot motor. #2 is running the motor a bit rich. It should still rev up with no 4 stroking when in the wood but it should barely 4 stroke when free revved.

I used to bore a lot of cylinders and motors with an iron sleeve do require some break in. I did a whole lot of Honda XR80s and 100s. Sometimes they would smoke about 1/2 way through warming up and that would be it. Others would smoke for the first few minutes of the 'parking lot lapping' and then the rings would seat and the smoking would stop. I would do laps around my small parking lot. Slowing increasing the throttle opening and revs for about 5 to 10 minutes. This method meant there was no steady state running. The motor was either accelerating or decelerating. Out of the tight turns in first then shift to second, then brake and downshift , repeat.

 

[Eric howes]

Lots of good information here

 

[CR888]

Lots of good information here

True however there is always near as much misinformation too.....that is how it goes with the Internet's when everyone gets to voice their opinion. Its up to readers to go through the good & wrong info and decide what's what.

 

[HarleyT]

Too bad that there is so much bad info on how to remove a clutch or flywheel........

But it does help my flywheel sales....

 

[KiwiBro]

Stolen car and ram raid. You're Welcome.

 

[Eric howes]

True however there is always near as much misinformation too.....that is how it goes with the Internet's when everyone gets to voice their opinion. Its up to readers to go through the good & wrong info and decide what's what.

Agreed, mostly common sense