Best budget chain grinder?

[Trailtrimmer]

This fall got pretty busy for me, I had more cutting side jobs and wood deliveries that I could have imagined. As a result, I'm in the market for a chain grinder as my sharpening needs have really changed. Yes I can hand file, but it's not always practical, especially when you are resurrecting a chain from a debris hit or cutting dirty wood.

So what do you guys like in the way of a grinder? I'm trying to keep it under $250, but if it's the difference between it lasting 3 years and 15 years, I'll pay the extra cash.

 

[GrassGuerilla]

From what I'm seeing, there isnt much difference between the $100 ones [IE: Northern TSC etc.]. The Oregon at around $300 seems to be the next step.

With a few clicks, you can find "coupon codes" for $20 off the Northern one. Meaning you can get them for $80-90. Might just get myself one of those for Christmas.

 

[procarbine2k1]

I got a Carlton 510C from Edge and Engine a couple years ago, here on the boards. I am not seeing it on their site, but would give them a call instead. I had one for a while, they are super nice grinders for the money. If I didn't luck out and find a good deal on a Silvey I would still have it.

 

[SkippyKtm]

I picked up an Italian made Carlton 78-120v grinder a few years ago off ebay; it was a bargain at $169 w/free shipping. Its made by Tecomec and is virtually the same as the Oregon 511A. I do see an Italian Carlton on ebay now, but its priced at $279 which is way out of whack IMO.
I'd avoid the china made grinders, that includes at least one (of the china made) Carlton ones too. As for the Oregon 511AX, one of the members here has one and he is wearing out the swivel guides at a very rapid rate. Sounds like he grinds lots of chain though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARLTON-CHA...262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a17a3c53e

 

[shutup-n-cut]

I have a northern grinder and it works fine for my needs , it gets very little use unless I have to try to get a chain back in shape that has cut something it is not supposed to ; hidden nails or the occasional rock growing in a stump. With a few modifications they can work pretty well for the cost.
Personally I still prefer to hand file most of the time . A good chainvise and a file still works for me with great reasults.

 

[thomas41]

My Northern does ok, after I shimmed the rotator so the teeth would be ground to the same length. My nephew has a 40 dollar one that does about the same quality job. I dont grind a lot, so I cannot justify buying the Oregon one. If you buy cheap, check the rotation so it grinds to the same length left and right, mark it as to the correct angle, and you should do ok unless you are grinding for a lot of other folks. JMHO.

 

[nstueve]

IF you are spending $300 the 511ax is the best bet. Mitch was grinding 6-7hrs a week on his 511ax, is what he told me. The bushings wear out in the table but only if your production sharpening. Other machinists on here may come up with some metal bushings in the future to solve this problem...

$200 level is the Oregon 511a or other Italian made versions in different colors/brands (carlton, tecomec, etc)
This IS NOT the Italian made one below!!! The Italian ones are worth the extra $$$ because they have a better motor, smoother table action, and accurately marked angles.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARLTON-CHA...796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232ba2860c

$90-$120 is the Chinese made Northern Tool Sharpener.
They sharpen ok but you'll need to double check and remark the table for accurate angles. The table does not operate smoothly, the motor and whole apparatus makes more squeaks and noise. I know it sounds silly but the smooth hum of a Oregon grinder and the table action are worth the extra money to me. Also the grinding stones are better on the Italian made Oregon 511a's and its other brand/color brother's. If I bought a NT for $89 (now on sale) I would spend the extra $$$ on a .325 and 3/8-.404 grinder wheels from Molemab ($13 x2 + shipping). They leave a better finish and seem to cut cooler to me.

 

[nstueve]

My Northern does ok, after I shimmed the rotator so the teeth would be ground to the same length. My nephew has a 40 dollar one that does about the same quality job. I dont grind a lot, so I cannot justify buying the Oregon one. If you buy cheap, check the rotation so it grinds to the same length left and right, mark it as to the correct angle, and you should do ok unless you are grinding for a lot of other folks. JMHO.

Even my Italian made 511a needs to have the left cutters advanced a little to keep the left and right cutters even from side to side. Not a big deal to check with a cheap digital micrometer. After a couple dozen chains you realize you can keep it within 0.010 by advancing the chain catcher 3/8 of a turn, or however much your grinder requires. I marked my chain advance knob with a magic marker and always start with the table tilted to the left; then when I tilt to the right I automaticly advance the chain 3/8 of a turn. Not hard... Just adjusting to your specific grinder.

 

[sachsmo]

Spend about $50 on 4 dozen files and a handle.

You will never look back.

 

[nk14zp]

I have the cheapest NT one and I am happy.

 

[nstueve]

Spend about $50 on 4 dozen files and a handle.

You will never look back.

If you grind other peoples chain you will most certainly look back... I'm not giving myself carpel tunnel hand sharpening everyone else's saws. If friends find out you have a grinder you will be asked to do their chain too... Spend the extra $100-$200 and you'll probably make it back in 1-2 cutting seasons charging $5-$7 a chain...

Don't get me wrong I like to hand sharpen my own chain...

 

[John R]

I have the Oregon 511AX and am very happy with it.

 

[Mac 6-10]

I have the northern tool grinder and it work well for me. I only use it to true a chain. Other wise its the file for me.

 

[066blaster]

i got the northern tool one also, i like it. there is some play in the hinge. which allows you to only take a small amount off the teeth. it takes a little getting use to.

there is no way you can set the angles and drop it down like a chop saw. you would only get a few sharpenings out of a chain. it takes a little getting use to. i have sharpened some of my chains 15 plus times. And i dont think a person can only use files. you will end up with some ef'd up top cutters. you need the grinder to square them up. I would however buy a better one if it was going to somehow work better. the thinner the edge the sooner that edge goes away!!!!
I guess it depends what your doing, running a hot saw or cutting firewood. And i dont use any measuring devices ,i just eyeball them and they cut straight.

I could have sharpened 2 chains in the time it took me to type this. also i have been using the 1/8 inch wheel for the top cutters then putting the 3/16 wheel on and hitting the side cutters,, BUTTER my freinds BUTTER!!!!