best grinding wheels
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HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
The best is an oregon hand file. Costs 2.99 for three which lasts me a long time.
homelite360
ArboristSite Operative
hell go all out and get a filing guide and you will nto be dissapointed. that is what i use after i cut for a day with my saws. touch it up and she cuts all good again and you do not have to take hte chain off the saw. i can file a chain almost as fast as someone could grind one and filing it gives you longer life of the chain cause you are nto taking as much off.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
When I first started using chainsaws, I used to take my chains to various saw shops to get them sharpened. My chains would last about 8 sharpenings.
Then I bought a little hand-held chain grinder for $35 or so. It did ok, but I still went through chains quickly and the little stones were expensive and didn't last long.
I finally worked with a guy who used a hand file and he taught me how to use one. After some practice, I started getting fairly adept at using them. Parked the electric grinder a couple months later and have used hand files over 10 years now. (Anybody wanna buy a lil POS hand grinder?)
Then I bought a little hand-held chain grinder for $35 or so. It did ok, but I still went through chains quickly and the little stones were expensive and didn't last long.
I finally worked with a guy who used a hand file and he taught me how to use one. After some practice, I started getting fairly adept at using them. Parked the electric grinder a couple months later and have used hand files over 10 years now. (Anybody wanna buy a lil POS hand grinder?)
HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Also all it takes is one screwy guy at the dealer to ruin your chain. If the grinder is left on too long and takes the temper out of the steel you might as well pitch the chain. If you are new to using a grinder practice on some wore out chains until you feel confident.
jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rakers
Hand filed, once you figure it out, is the sharpest in my opinion. I`ve got two grinders, an Oregon 511 and a Tecomec Jolly? that I would use for the rakers. I only used the 511 to bring back the angles when I had them too far gone or if I really rocked a chain, but I would use that d**n Jolly to lower the rakers thinking what could be better than using a machine for this. Well let me tell you what. I started using the Husky guage, ryttermall or something like that, about a year ago, and it`s been the best two bucks I ever spent. Cutting speed is way up and vibes are way down. It works essentialy the same as the Carlton file-o-plate for lowering each raker relative to it`s tooth. This little discovery has almost negated the need for the 511 for me, which really saves time. I think to grind properly with a high speed grinder like the Oregon or anything else I know of except the Silveys which are slower, takes longer than hand filing a properly maintained chain. Another thing that I learned the hard way about grinding is that you don`t want to use any sort of compound on the wheel, I was using "Kool Grind". This crap doesn`t let the dull granules break off the wheel so you end up burnishing the chain sharp but you lose the temper. BTW, if you go to any loggers shows or field days you can usually pick up all the files you want for about 7-8 dollars per dozen. If you`re self employed, these are trade shows and educational so they are tax deductable. Only hazard is that you might end up leaving with a few extra saws that were "too cheap to pass up".
Hand filed, once you figure it out, is the sharpest in my opinion. I`ve got two grinders, an Oregon 511 and a Tecomec Jolly? that I would use for the rakers. I only used the 511 to bring back the angles when I had them too far gone or if I really rocked a chain, but I would use that d**n Jolly to lower the rakers thinking what could be better than using a machine for this. Well let me tell you what. I started using the Husky guage, ryttermall or something like that, about a year ago, and it`s been the best two bucks I ever spent. Cutting speed is way up and vibes are way down. It works essentialy the same as the Carlton file-o-plate for lowering each raker relative to it`s tooth. This little discovery has almost negated the need for the 511 for me, which really saves time. I think to grind properly with a high speed grinder like the Oregon or anything else I know of except the Silveys which are slower, takes longer than hand filing a properly maintained chain. Another thing that I learned the hard way about grinding is that you don`t want to use any sort of compound on the wheel, I was using "Kool Grind". This crap doesn`t let the dull granules break off the wheel so you end up burnishing the chain sharp but you lose the temper. BTW, if you go to any loggers shows or field days you can usually pick up all the files you want for about 7-8 dollars per dozen. If you`re self employed, these are trade shows and educational so they are tax deductable. Only hazard is that you might end up leaving with a few extra saws that were "too cheap to pass up".
Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
I`m quite happy with my Oregon and the pink stones that come with the unit.
I grind plenty of chains for milling, it isn`t any faster but it`s far more accurate than a hand file for keeping the cutters the same length.
I grind plenty of chains for milling, it isn`t any faster but it`s far more accurate than a hand file for keeping the cutters the same length.
jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
Same Length
Kevin, I won`t dispute that a grinder is better over many sharpenings than free hand would be over the same number, as far as keeping things the same length or angles, but I have found subtle and sometimes compounded differences in length with a grinder. Factors such as changing wheel diameter and off center of the wheel are probably the culprits. I think this might be more likely on a chain that is continually re-ground on the same machine. I`ll give you an example of how I do it recognizing that I may be unique, but probably not. The first time I sharpen a chain, whether by hand or machine, I`ll find the worst cutter if one stands out and sharpen it. Then I either take the raker file or grinder and nick the backside of the tooth so it is permanently marked. Now I finish up and go off fat, dumb, and happy until the next sharpening. Well unless I know that I rocked the chain, I always start at the marked tooth, just makes it simpler to keep track. Anyway, overtime I think you get alot of repeated exposure between the grinder and particular teeth and a pattern develops. Thing is, I don`t think this pattern matters at all if the rakers are set to their respective tooth, but if they are machine set or filed with a guage like the Oregon which bridges a few teeth, you get an averaged raker height, not the best per tooth height. I`ve found that I don`t need to keep the teeth nearly perfect angularly or lenthwise, sided to side in the chain, or even within all the teeth in one side. Just hit the rakers with the Ryytermall every couple of sharpenings and I`m making lots of big chips. I`m primarily making full bar cuts in hard wood using 372 Huskies and I feel like I`m cutting fresh white bread, based on my perception of the speed and effort expended. I`d be curious to know what anybody else thinks. Russ
Kevin, I won`t dispute that a grinder is better over many sharpenings than free hand would be over the same number, as far as keeping things the same length or angles, but I have found subtle and sometimes compounded differences in length with a grinder. Factors such as changing wheel diameter and off center of the wheel are probably the culprits. I think this might be more likely on a chain that is continually re-ground on the same machine. I`ll give you an example of how I do it recognizing that I may be unique, but probably not. The first time I sharpen a chain, whether by hand or machine, I`ll find the worst cutter if one stands out and sharpen it. Then I either take the raker file or grinder and nick the backside of the tooth so it is permanently marked. Now I finish up and go off fat, dumb, and happy until the next sharpening. Well unless I know that I rocked the chain, I always start at the marked tooth, just makes it simpler to keep track. Anyway, overtime I think you get alot of repeated exposure between the grinder and particular teeth and a pattern develops. Thing is, I don`t think this pattern matters at all if the rakers are set to their respective tooth, but if they are machine set or filed with a guage like the Oregon which bridges a few teeth, you get an averaged raker height, not the best per tooth height. I`ve found that I don`t need to keep the teeth nearly perfect angularly or lenthwise, sided to side in the chain, or even within all the teeth in one side. Just hit the rakers with the Ryytermall every couple of sharpenings and I`m making lots of big chips. I`m primarily making full bar cuts in hard wood using 372 Huskies and I feel like I`m cutting fresh white bread, based on my perception of the speed and effort expended. I`d be curious to know what anybody else thinks. Russ
Kevin
Addicted to ArboristSite
I`m a bit of a fanatic and wear a magnifying headset.
I`ll ink the first tooth to be sharpened along the inside of the cutting edge so I can see exactly where the wheel is removing metal from the tooth.
I use the length gauge and check to see if the left and right teeth are the same length.
I don`t have any cutters that are damaged because the chains are only used for milling.
When grinding only a few thousandths on each tooth they remain cool to the touch and the chains last a long time.
I`ll ink the first tooth to be sharpened along the inside of the cutting edge so I can see exactly where the wheel is removing metal from the tooth.
I use the length gauge and check to see if the left and right teeth are the same length.
I don`t have any cutters that are damaged because the chains are only used for milling.
When grinding only a few thousandths on each tooth they remain cool to the touch and the chains last a long time.
If you have not had some experience with grinding start with vitrified bonded wheels that are soft in bond. They will break down the form faster, but will load up less and therefore not burn the cutter. Most chain grinding wheels are sold color and hardness. Other wheel makers in the industrial market go by a standard marking example SG46k first letters are wheel material number is grit size last leter is hardness. This is very basic explanation. Rule of thumb use largest grit that gives desired finish. The finer the grit the better the wheel form will last, but the greater the chance of burning the cutter. When you get your process down then look at the ceramic bonded wheels. they are a little more, but out last the others by far.
On grinders I use Silvey and while they are top of the line you must not take anything for granted. If 25 plus years of tool grinding to the .0001 has taught me was be attentive all the time. Once a grinder is set up PROPERLY the results can not be beat by hand filing. Now before anyone gets jacked up ( I'm not beeboo) I also touch up my chains with a file on site. I also use file guides to dress my rakers. I run round chisel and square chisel full comp and full skip. I run an 046 and 066 32" and 36" bars. Big soft wood mostly for fire wood. I keep the chains real sharp and cut up alot in short order. If you can get a good grinder, set it up right, it can not be beat
On grinders I use Silvey and while they are top of the line you must not take anything for granted. If 25 plus years of tool grinding to the .0001 has taught me was be attentive all the time. Once a grinder is set up PROPERLY the results can not be beat by hand filing. Now before anyone gets jacked up ( I'm not beeboo) I also touch up my chains with a file on site. I also use file guides to dress my rakers. I run round chisel and square chisel full comp and full skip. I run an 046 and 066 32" and 36" bars. Big soft wood mostly for fire wood. I keep the chains real sharp and cut up alot in short order. If you can get a good grinder, set it up right, it can not be beat
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