OK, that sounds logical.
.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!
That's what the wedge is for!
OK, that sounds logical.
.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!
OK, that sounds logical.
.... but it still doesn't solve the issue of several days down time, with the damp towel and plastic bag method!
Well, I am no longer without a maul.......my wife wanted to surprise me for my birthday and got me a 12lb Collins Mega Maul.........it's got a 30" steel handle and weighs a TON. It feels like you are holding a metal pipe with an anvil welded to it over your head.......I tried splitting a couple of pieces with it, however it definitely needs to be sharpened. It doesn't come with any kind of edge on it. I tried it on a partially dry piece of locust, it came down with a massive THUNK and made a 1" deep wedge-shaped gouge in the wood. That's it. Time to wear out a grinding wheel! I guess it'll be fine for the really big stuff, however it's definitely not something I'm going to use on a regular basis. I'm leaning towards the Fiskars Super Splitter, after reading all the info given on this thread.
Thanks Guys-
Brent
What annoys me with wooden handle axes is that you need to set them in water for some time now and then, to make the head stay on - and then they rust. If you haven't used them in a while, you don't really know if they are ready to be used, or not.
I had a smaller (2lbs head) "Husky" branded Granfors (as a "woods" axe), but I didn't like it, for that reason (I have no idea where it is today and don't care).
Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.
Well, here's my collection. I am obviously an axe-tart. I have AAD, or whatever the CAD equivalent is.
I've never had a problem with the heads coming loose - one of the few advantages of having a rather damp garage.
......
"I also thought about that - one of the reasons that I have been a bit critical to his claims in public, instead of discussing it in pms first. "
If you read carefully my writings before, you will not find any such sentence, where I have said " BUY THIS AXE"
I have never told that. It is totally an other story what kind of image you make in your mind. .....
What's the one in the middle, and how much does it weigh? Is the handle a 36 or 32?
Thanks,
Gypo
The one in the middle is a Gränsfors splitting maul weight is 3,2kg and the handle is 80cm !
32" would be too dangerous unless the guy using it is under 5'2" or stand with his feet 5' apart.Close to 32" then!
32" would be too dangerous unless the guy using it is under 5'2" or stand with his feet 5' apart.
Gypo
SawTroll! Real men don't use splitting blocks except to make kindling!That depends on what is under the spitting object!
I usually use an about 24" stub under the splitting object, and use steel toed chainsaw boots when splitting.
SawTroll! Real men don't use splitting blocks except to make kindling!
Using a 24" block only loses you 24" of swing.:greenchainsaw:
Gypo
I see how you think, but I believe it depends on your hight, relative to the handle, and how high the "target" is?
Anyway, I don't want my axe to hit the ground when the split is done.
What doesn't split pretty easily, I leave to a chainsaw for noodling - I love to do that!
Yes, I see the utility of both methods now and the two different handle lengths.Gypo the short handle sharp mauls are great to use at the wood pile, on a block. The heavier long handle American styles maul works well for me in the woods with the rounds on the ground.
For me, using a block to split wood is much easier on my back. And I don't want my axe/maul hitting the ground either.
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