ENYT
New Member
Well that sounds about like what I am aiming for. It is much more angular and wedge shaped. I am doing mine with a 4 inch grinder and it will probably take a couple hours before it is done.
Best splitting maul
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Nice sunny day, so I could get some pix of mauls, partly for "proof it did happen."
From left to right, or top down, they are (2) big-box 6-pounders, 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller, 8 lb big-box. It's pretty clear that the Mueller has a really substantial handle near the head- it tapers a lot there. Also, you can see how the Mueller's head is widest far behind the widest point of the others- this protects the handle.
The grinding under the head of the Mueller is original, from the forge. In fact, it's only modification here has been a progressive polishing of the head, back from the edge, with wood.
I hope this makes it at least partly clear, and helps make splitting more fun.
View attachment 311097View attachment 311098
Last edited:
Nice sunny day, so I could get some pix of mauls, partly for "proof it did happen."
From left to right, or top down, they are (2) big-box 6-pounders, 3 kg (6.6 lb) Mueller, 8 lb big-box. It's pretty clear that the Mueller has a really substantial handle near the head- it tapers a lot there. Also, you can see how the Mueller's head is widest far behind the widest point of the others- this protects the handle.
The grinding under the head of the Mueller is original, from the forge. In fact, it's only modification here has been a progressive polishing of the head, back from the edge, with wood.
I hope this makes it at least partly clear, and helps make splitting more fun
View attachment 311097View attachment 311098
A picture is worth a thousand words, Thanks!
Ron
Some people make confusion between Axe and maul. I was searching the web for the best maul. I got many websites who review lots of maul and axe. It's horrible that most of them just describe axe as maul. It's painful. But after browsing lots web finally I come to get a real article who describe exactly What I need. The article from inspiringhomestyle helps me to get out of confusion. A big thanks to Traci for his nice article. I managed to buy a Hasqvrna splitting maul which has a 32 inch handle. It's a pretty maul that meets my need. I just love the maul.
I've only had experience with 3 different mauls. For what it is worth: Started with 6lb Council maul, used it for a lot of years, really nothing to complain about, good all around maul that is tough and can be used to drive wedges through tough wood. Eventually tried a Fiskars X27. Is way easier to swing with the lighter head and splits straighter grain wood more efficiently than the Council. Not very good to pound splitting wedges with due to the lighter weight and shape. Finally bought a Gransfors Bruks maul on a whim as a treat to myself...... It is somewhere in between the two...... Maybe the perfect blend in my opinion. The cross section of the head has 2 distinct shapes to it, the first edge starts driving into the wood, and then the curved contour splits the wood apart.... I love how it handles also. The handle is 27 inches, if it ever breaks I would probably put on a 32 inch one just cause I am fairly tall. But I tell ya, the edge I put on it will shave your arm and it is a wood splitting dream for the Big leaf maple, alder and fir we have out on the west coast here. Haven't had the heart to hit a wedge with it yet to tell you the truth though. Anything too heavy to lift on to the splitter gets the 461R splitter treatment now..... Getting too old and lazy for that heavy lifting stuff!!!!!
Ooh an old thread resurrected.
There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
For real tough stuff the Fiskars Isocore is the tool to beat IMO. If you want to crank out a lot of wood in a sitting you need to drop to a lighter tool. The Gransfors (5.5#) is the smoothest, most user friendly tool I've split wood with and it really works well. The Husqvarna S2800 works equally well but some don't like it because it has a relatively short handle and the composite handle doesn't absorb shock quite as well as the hickory on the Gransfors. Both the Gransfors and the Husky stand above the Fiskars X27 in performance although the Fiskars is half the cost of the Husky and less than a third of the Gransfors so it does have a purpose.
Don't listen to @CTYank, he's a fanboy.
There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
For real tough stuff the Fiskars Isocore is the tool to beat IMO. If you want to crank out a lot of wood in a sitting you need to drop to a lighter tool. The Gransfors (5.5#) is the smoothest, most user friendly tool I've split wood with and it really works well. The Husqvarna S2800 works equally well but some don't like it because it has a relatively short handle and the composite handle doesn't absorb shock quite as well as the hickory on the Gransfors. Both the Gransfors and the Husky stand above the Fiskars X27 in performance although the Fiskars is half the cost of the Husky and less than a third of the Gransfors so it does have a purpose.
Don't listen to @CTYank, he's a fanboy.
Haaahaaaahaaaaaa........Ooh an old thread resurrected.
There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
For real tough stuff the Fiskars Isocore is the tool to beat IMO. If you want to crank out a lot of wood in a sitting you need to drop to a lighter tool. The Gransfors (5.5#) is the smoothest, most user friendly tool I've split wood with and it really works well. The Husqvarna S2800 works equally well but some don't like it because it has a relatively short handle and the composite handle doesn't absorb shock quite as well as the hickory on the Gransfors. Both the Gransfors and the Husky stand above the Fiskars X27 in performance although the Fiskars is half the cost of the Husky and less than a third of the Gransfors so it does have a purpose.
Don't listen to @CTYank, he's a fanboy.
dave_026
ArboristSite Member
I see most people have the Fiskars X25 or X27 models, I purchased the larger 8lb Fiskars splitting maul instead. Have been very happy with it so far. I have not used a wedge since I got the thing, even up to 30 in oak logs I just smash at it until they fall apart. Got about 2 cords on it so far, handling really well.
Oak is one of the easier woods to split. Try hickory or elm.
I have the Fiskars 8 lb Iso-Core, the Fiskars X-27 splitting axe, an old hardware store 8 lb splitting maul and the original Sotz 15 lb Monster Maul. The Monster Maul is the best I have ever used. If it does not split the wood, it will not get stuck. My second favorite is the Fiakars X27. It does better than any of my 8 lb mauls, even though it has only a 4.5 lb head. I find the Iso-Core gets stuck a lot. That wastes a lot of my time.
atlashunter
ArboristSite Lurker
Good information. Have one I bought years ago from Northern Tool. Gets the job done but looking for something better.Ooh an old thread resurrected.
There's a distinction between splitting axe and maul but to me it's what gets the best results and doesn't beat up the user. Some tools frankly aren't fun to use.
For real tough stuff the Fiskars Isocore is the tool to beat IMO. If you want to crank out a lot of wood in a sitting you need to drop to a lighter tool. The Gransfors (5.5#) is the smoothest, most user friendly tool I've split wood with and it really works well. The Husqvarna S2800 works equally well but some don't like it because it has a relatively short handle and the composite handle doesn't absorb shock quite as well as the hickory on the Gransfors. Both the Gransfors and the Husky stand above the Fiskars X27 in performance although the Fiskars is half the cost of the Husky and less than a third of the Gransfors so it does have a purpose.
Don't listen to @CTYank, he's a fanboy.
Since this sorta looks like a splitting maul,, I thought I would ask here,, WHAT IS THIS!!?? 
It is marked N&W railroad,, (that was before Norfolk Southern)
I haven't tried it,, yet, but, I would bet it will split wood.
It weighs north of 6 pounds.
It is marked N&W railroad,, (that was before Norfolk Southern)
I haven't tried it,, yet, but, I would bet it will split wood.
It weighs north of 6 pounds.
Look up Rail Road Cut Devil, the rails would be scored on all sides then bent and the hope that helps. rail would snap. done cold, that is not heating the rail. These things were set, sharp end, on the rail and a larger hammer would hit them to score the railSince this sorta looks like a splitting maul,, I thought I would ask here,, WHAT IS THIS!!??
It is marked N&W railroad,, (that was before Norfolk Southern)
I haven't tried it,, yet, but, I would bet it will split wood.
It weighs north of 6 pounds.
hope that this helps
WOW!!,, amazing that a rail could be broken by that little "hammer" ,, and not the repeated abuse of a locomotive!!
Rail metal must be strange,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
THANKS!!
I need to clarify that a bit, after the rail was 'scored' it was set between two immovable objects and bent and then the rail 'snapped' at the score point. Probably took a lot of effort to bend it.
Also, to answer the first question, It probably would split wood, but need to be sharpened. I have a 'Scandinavian' pattern splitting maul that looks like the cut devil, works well on smaller pieces at the woodshed, but not so well on the first split of a large round in the field. The long thin point tends to get stuck before it splits the wood.
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