I recently got a wood stove for our house and have been out cutting a bunch of fire wood. I got a fiber glass handle 8 lb maul from Homedepot and I am able to split about 3 cords before I break it. I am on my second one and already see that it will be gone in another cord. I am not banging the handle, just using it normal. I was thinking of getting the all steel 15 lb maul but think that will tear up my arm with vibration. So I might go wood handle and just get replacement handles. I don't remember going through wood handles as much as the fiberglass ones. Problem with the fiber glass is I cant just replace the handle. I cant afford a splitter right now and I don't mind hand splitting. Anyways need something that will LAST. Anyone have any suggestions? What works for you?
Best Splitting Maul ??
- Thread starter Travis041
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First vote for Fiskars X27
brewmonster
ArboristSite Operative
How do you manage to break fiberglass handles? I've used an 8# maul for the last several years to split maybe 20 cords and, though it did come loose from the head, the fiberglass handle is still fine. I epoxied it back onto the head and am still using it. Something doesn't sound right.
As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff.
As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff.
It might be the Brand we carry. I work at the store I got it at and have had a lot of them returned. And I was asking the same question. Decided to give it a try since it was right there. And I had the same problem = 3 cord busted head and the stem that runs through the handle pulling out. The brand we carry is called Rockforge and well it does have a lot of bad reviews - here is a link from anouther site - http://www.homedepot.com/p/ROCKFORGE-8-lb-Maul-with-33-in-Fiberglass-Handle-GXX-440-FGH/202520554
What brand do you use Brewmonster? I do like the lifetime warranty idea on the x27 tho
What brand do you use Brewmonster? I do like the lifetime warranty idea on the x27 tho
I have the x25 Fiskars and my bro has an x27, both have been good tools for us. My brothers x27 did break(handle up by the head) this last winter on a very cold day splitting some oak. Fiskars warranty is good as they sent him a new one after sending them a pic via e-mail. They are not miracle tools but i think they work better than my 8 lbs. maul for most wood and they definetely dont tire me out as much as heavier mauls.
Do a search on Fiskars on this site and you will find more info than youve got time to read.
Do a search on Fiskars on this site and you will find more info than youve got time to read.
A vote for Wetterlings or Hultafors (Husqvarna) 5.5 lb mauls. Excellent materials and design. And you can use the poll as a hammer. Less $ spent on marketing.
Each of us has an optimum head-weight. For me fiskars is way too light, 8 lb way too heavy for best effect. ~5 lb. is just right.
Each of us has an optimum head-weight. For me fiskars is way too light, 8 lb way too heavy for best effect. ~5 lb. is just right.
Ash_403
Shop smart. Shop S-Mart.
I've split around 10 cords of wood over the years with my Tru-Temper brand 8# maul. It does a decent job. The handle is just ever so slightly loose at the maul head now.
I purchased the X27 last Spring. I really don't care for it. As brewmonster says, "As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff. "
In my case, I would have to 100% agree.
Sometimes I get the X27 out with my 8# maul and give the X27 a try again. I'll vary the rounds, and diameters, straight grain, not so straight... etc. It really is only useful in the nice, straight grained, easy to split species.
So, it doesn't get much use by me.
Best of luck.
I purchased the X27 last Spring. I really don't care for it. As brewmonster says, "As for the Fiskars, it is vastly over-rated. Good only for easy stuff. "
In my case, I would have to 100% agree.
Sometimes I get the X27 out with my 8# maul and give the X27 a try again. I'll vary the rounds, and diameters, straight grain, not so straight... etc. It really is only useful in the nice, straight grained, easy to split species.
So, it doesn't get much use by me.
Best of luck.
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brewmonster
ArboristSite Operative
What brand do you use Brewmonster?
True Temper. Sold at Lowe's, I think.
True Temper. Sold at Lowe's, I think.
mallardman
ArboristSite Operative
Personally I don't like mauls or axes with plastic/fiberglass handles. That includes fiskars. Eventually all handles go bad even if you never over strike. I prefer a wood handle tool so the handle can be replaced.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
zogger
Tree Freak
I would not like being stuck with one tool to hand split wood. Nope. Same with saws, I want more than one.
I have and use 8lb generic maul from TSC I believe, a fiskars original supersplitter (favorite by far), a husky/wetterlings (needs center ridge grinding off and reshaping so it doesn't stick in the wood), and a sledge and steel wedges. I use all of the above, plus noodling on difficult crotches, etc.
I don't struggle with rounds, they split easy or they don't, I keep going through a pile and push off to the side the difficult ones, they get noodled at the end.
There needs to be like a monster wedge, something *big* that will go right down through a 16 inch round. I hates getting wedges stuck. The head needs to be wider than a sledge hammer head, so you can keep smacking it good. Like a ten lb wedge.
I have yet to see for sale an honest good super wedge, just shorties that have the potential to leave you with lbs of steel stuck in a round.
This is why I noodle, I get to anything I know from experience and a fast test strike with a maul, etc, that will be gnarly, I would rather spend five cents mix fuel to deal with it, rather than beating myself up and destroying tools..
I tried a monster maul way back when they first came out, no thanks. I know they will split wood, but they are ridiculous stupid heavy and dangerous and vibrate your hands bad.
If I had to pick one, fiskars. But like I said, I use them all.
I have and use 8lb generic maul from TSC I believe, a fiskars original supersplitter (favorite by far), a husky/wetterlings (needs center ridge grinding off and reshaping so it doesn't stick in the wood), and a sledge and steel wedges. I use all of the above, plus noodling on difficult crotches, etc.
I don't struggle with rounds, they split easy or they don't, I keep going through a pile and push off to the side the difficult ones, they get noodled at the end.
There needs to be like a monster wedge, something *big* that will go right down through a 16 inch round. I hates getting wedges stuck. The head needs to be wider than a sledge hammer head, so you can keep smacking it good. Like a ten lb wedge.
I have yet to see for sale an honest good super wedge, just shorties that have the potential to leave you with lbs of steel stuck in a round.
This is why I noodle, I get to anything I know from experience and a fast test strike with a maul, etc, that will be gnarly, I would rather spend five cents mix fuel to deal with it, rather than beating myself up and destroying tools..
I tried a monster maul way back when they first came out, no thanks. I know they will split wood, but they are ridiculous stupid heavy and dangerous and vibrate your hands bad.
If I had to pick one, fiskars. But like I said, I use them all.
I have come to a decision I am taking back the Rockforge junk axe and maul I got and ordering the Fiskars x27 but like you said Zogger I am not going to limit myself to one axe/maul. I am also going to get a second maul later down the road probably a hickory wood handle American made 8lb maul for when I need a little more weight.
Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x27?
Figured going with the Fiskars x27 since that is the only other maul/axe they have available at the store. If they had true temper I may of had to try trading out for that one. Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can get back to splitting here soon.
Speaking of weight I cant find clear info on the x27s weight. Some sites say 4.5 and others say 6.3 - I hope it is the 6.3 personally. Anyone know did they up the weight of the x27?
Figured going with the Fiskars x27 since that is the only other maul/axe they have available at the store. If they had true temper I may of had to try trading out for that one. Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can get back to splitting here soon.
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
It really does't matter 6lb....8lb....Home Depot....Lowes...wood handle.....fiberglass handle. In my humble opinion, the best splitting maul is one being swung by someone other than me. YUP
AND, before a million of you cry about how thats not true...or what are you a know it all..... this is just "MY" opinion. So, get over it.
AND, before a million of you cry about how thats not true...or what are you a know it all..... this is just "MY" opinion. So, get over it.
Fiberglass/synthetic handles do not belong on striking tools... they reduce the power transmitted to the striking head and send way more vibration into the hands, arms and shoulders. The hollow Fiskars handle is a bit of an exception to that; not perfect but much better than a solid synthetic. The problem with the Fiskars is it ain't designed for serious splitting... it's an ax, not a maul, and will not split large tough rounds like a maul. I'd much rather swing an 8# maul once than a 4# ax two, three, four or more times. I have a Fiskars... it's only used on the easy-to-split stuff.
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zogger
Tree Freak
AFAIK it is 4.5 lb head. OK, fiskars works with *speed* and reading the wood and accuracy. It isn't a big heavy maul. It's a different swing, and it will take a bit to get the correct muscle memory to use one well. I keep mine slicked up with some teflon spray, because the factory coating wears off eventually. (You can use the same spray on all your wood splitting stuff if ya want, keeps them from sticking in the wood and definitely helps with splitting.)
I have split up to a 36" round before with just the fiskars, I work around the outside to the middle, but I have busted them conventionally as well, down the middle, just work a crack right across.
They are sharp!! And work sharp. Touch up the edge often and keep it outta the dirt. I split inside a tire on a low block whenever I can. This holds the wood there for follow up strikes PLUS can and will save your azz if it blows through a round and heads towards your feet/legs, and this happens to most anyone who has tried one.
You'll like it, happy splitting!
I have the one on top--BIG OX. 2 thumbs up. A little pricey. Can't imagine breaking it with the metal handle sleeve:
http://www.ochsenkopf.com/en/products/group_articles.html?oe_opt[list_set]=211078,210865,210866
http://www.ochsenkopf.com/en/products/group_articles.html?oe_opt[list_set]=211078,210865,210866
Got me wondering with that. I've found both the 3 kg Mueller and 2.5 kg Wetterlings (indistinguishable from Hultafors-Husqy) mauls very unlikely to get stuck in the wood. Generally, about the time the edge is a little over an inch in, the wood splits. And it goes in pretty readily, depending. In rare cases where the maul doesn't go through (think black birch) it generally will with a couple of hits from another maul. No shrapnel from well-heat-treated steel.
The center ridge of the Wetterlings almost never affects the splitting. If anything, it just keeps guiding the splits apart. I've never felt a temptation to reshape either of these mauls. In fact, I've ground some chubby-cheeked Bradlees mauls to mimic the Mueller. Got that one a few years earlier; its faces are very flat. Those reworked mauls are actually useful now.
With the really big, nasty, forked ones, it's not either-or, split or noodle. For the really hard cases, they go to a separate pile, then later noodled through the cross-fibers maybe a bar's-width deep. Depending, either a few whacks with a maul or a couple of wedges, or both- wedge(s) in one end, maul at the other. Don't need long wedges when they're driven from the side. (Some saws are much better than others at avoiding clogging, including PP5020 and Dolmar PS-6100- all in the design of the clutch cover.)
Like Spidey, I really dislike plastic or lacquered handles. Just don't feel right and raise blisters. Plain or lightly oiled prime hickory ONLY, please. Shiny finishes get sanded or scraped off.
Where did you purchase this? I checked their website but I could not find anything about where to purchase them.
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