Best Two-Saw Combo and Help with New Project

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Production:

361 (some falling and good skidder saw) and a 660 (falling and bucking-up), both ported and such.

When logging you aren't typically cutting up the little branches as much so you wouldn't use the smaller 260 as much.


Normal home owner stuff:

260 and 441, both ported and such, but honestly the 361 easily does what either of these two models will do, comfortably, so you would only need the 361.

My opinion,

Sam
 
Can't believe no one mentioned the 5100/7900 in this thread? Factoring cost into the equation its a hard combo to beat. The last GTG solidified my thoughts on that even more.
 
For me personally, my 2-saw combination would be an Echo CS-370 and a CS-8000.
That way I would have the 8000 as my felling saw (with a 36" bar there arent very many trees that it couldnt handle cutting down) and then I would have the lighter 370 for doing my limbing and bucking.
IMO, the ideal 2-saw set would be a saw that is in the 35cc range to use as your limbing saw and they having something that is 50cc or more as your felling saw.
The only Echo I have ran is the CS440 45cc saw. It can't even pull a 3/8chain at all. Both the 346XP and the 5100 pull it with authority. Can't believe Echo would be anywhere near this crowd.
 
One saw plan: MS361 with the muffler moded and two bars 16" and 24". Two saw plan: MS 260 pro muffler moded and either the muffler moded MS 361 or a Husky 372xpw. I kept it Stihl and can share rim sprockets, chains, and bars. Three saw plan: add a top handle saw to the two saw plan. Just my 2cents.

I keep an Echo CS400 around just in case a family member asks to borrow a saw.
 
The only Echo I have ran is the CS440 45cc saw. It can't even pull a 3/8chain at all. Both the 346XP and the 5100 pull it with authority. Can't believe Echo would be anywhere near this crowd.
Ive ran Echos too and Ive always found that they will run head-to-head with any other brand of saw on the market.
Granted, they might not cut quite as fast, but its a very small difference. We are talking tenths of a second here.
I know that quite a few people on this site dont think much of Echos and thats cool. To each their own.
 
yikes... just read OP... hire a pro... don't get hurt!
 
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Bigredd,
Play it safe, hire a professional tree service to aleast get it on the ground.
Longwood
 
I posted earlier in this thread that I have the 346xp and some day would like a bigger saw to replace my old homelite VI955 .I would want something that would handle a 20'' bar mainly for bucking a tri-axle load or two of oak every year and the ocaasional (24'' butt dia. ) blow down . I was pretty much set on the husky 359 but now I see the 357xp is the same weight and quite a bit more horsepower than the 346 and the 359 , do you guys think the 359 is to close to the 346 in power ? Seems like the perfect match would be the 346xp and the 357xp !!!!!
http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3100.aspx?nid=56074,56211,56264,79055,55804
 
Depends on what the two saw combo is for? If it's for firewood, then the best combo is a 50cc and a 70+cc saw. If your logging, then it's 70cc and a 90cc. If it's for tree work, I'd use a top handle and a 70cc if I could only have two. No you'll not be able too rent a bucket truck, but you can rent a towable hydraulic lift at most rental places.:cheers:
 
If you think that it needs to go, get many bids from reputable companies with references, which you check, for a drop and leave.

Explain the parameters. Looking for cheapest option without damage to houses. The lawn can have holes punched into it. I don't care about that bush, that is important to save, I'll transplant that before you come, I'll move whatever is in the yard that needs to be moved.

You can cut it up yourself.

I'm a Stihl guy. I love the 361, but would love a 441, and even more the not yet made 661. The anti-vibe is the key to me. If you have not joint problems, a 036/ 360 would get you through it all with some cutting from both sides of the log.
A 044/440 might be a bit much for a homeowner.

I'd say buy a 361 for about $600, then sell it for about $400 on Ebay when done, keep the smaller saw for your occasional needs.

buy chaps, eye and ear protection. Stihl has a DVD for about $6 that is a decent overview of use and maintenance. Buy bucking wedges and use them. A claw hammer is enough to pound them, but a 3-5# hammer would be a bit better.

Around here anybody can rent a 60' lift at a local rental company, but you need a bond for anything bigger (from Hertz, company policy). I'd say, don't do it.

Hire out the more skilled work, tackle what you can. Feel good about being wise enough to make good choices, and having the initiative to tackle what is reasonable.

A good climber would probably not use a lift, which would save money over such specialty equipment like a 90' bucket truck. I'm guessing to rent a 100' lift so you can drop small pieces without rigging is going to be $600+ per day, and you'll need more than one day, I'll bet.

You neighbor has the gear, but anyone can buy gear. The key is the knowledge and experience to not kill oneself or crush someone's house.

Let us know how it goes.

Would be interesting to see more pics, before, during, and after.
 
Thanks for the great responses on this project. Especially liked response from Southsoundtree. Will share the responses with my neighbor. Also will contact some of the mills to see if they would be interested in picking up the logs and their minimum lengths. Both trunks are straight and still 24" diameter at 40 ft high.

Will post some pics if/when the work is done. Leaves are off the tree now so not as critical for blow-down in wind storm. East TN and Western NC is hardwood heaven.
 
It is, but here I'd take NE346xp/372xp.....
I really like the 346 and Husky mods out much better but I can buy both Dolmars for just a little more than one 372 so if I'm am staying stock there can't be enough performance gain to justify the price. In other parts of the world that may not be the case at all.
 
I really like my DCS 401/DCS 6401++p(7900 p/c) and don't think I would have to take a backseat to anyone in this area running stock saws.

That being said, as is a common theme in this thread, I agree that doing that one yourself would be akin to a surgeon doing his own appendectomy.
Leave (at least the felling) of that one to someone with LOTS of experience and LOTS of insurance.
There are just too many things that can go wrong in that picture, and we haven't even seen the tops.
JMHO

Mike
 
Here are a few more pics of the poplar tree. It's on a slope above the neighbors home. Probably one of the tallest trees in the area. Most certainly the fence would have to be removed.

Will get some estimates for part of the work.
 
Here are a few more pics of the poplar tree. It's on a slope above the neighbors home. Probably one of the tallest trees in the area. Most certainly the fence would have to be removed.

Will get some estimates for part of the work.

Probably some point I don't get here, but what is in the way of just cutting them down, with a slight correction to the direction of the lean? :confused:
 
Probably some point I don't get here, but what is in the way of just cutting them down, with a slight correction to the direction of the lean? :confused:

Troll:

The trunk on the right leans towards the right, parallel to the fence. The left trunk leans toward the neighbor's house. The only clear path is to the right along the fence.

No expert, but I would think the left one might fall on house if the right one is suddenly removed.
 
260/ 441 or better still 280 /441. A 660 is a farr heavier than you need or are ever likely to need.

Remember that a 441, 372,575, 7900 will pull a 28" so double cutting you can tackle almost everything, not as fast as with a 660 but you'll still get it done.

My own daily combo is a 575/ 441. I have a 357 but rarely use it, Some day ill get a 90cc saw but not till they make one with lower vibes.
 

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