Big maple slabbing

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huskyhank

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I let folks know that I'm interested in trees to mill. My friend Lester had this big old maple in his side yard. It had been topped to remove dead wood and was near the end of its life. Its just over 40 inches in diameter with three big branches left. Lots of rot started and as it turns out a bit of spalting in the big branches I milled this afternoon.

Today I went over to fall and start milling it. I was in a hurry and forgot my real camera so all I have is this phone camera picture made by my son while Lester and I discuss the falling.

I milled several nice crotches and limbs. (20" limbs!) Good looking stuff so far. Tomorrow we tackle the last two limbs and then the trunk. I won't forget the camera tomorrow.


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125041&stc=1&d=1266023626
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I let folks know that I'm interested in trees to mill. My friend Lester had this big old maple in his side yard. It had been topped to remove dead wood and was near the end of its life. Its just over 40 inches in diameter with three big branches left. Lots of rot started and as it turns out a bit of spalting in the big branches I milled this afternoon.

Today I went over to fall and start milling it. I was in a hurry and forgot my real camera so all I have is this phone camera picture made by my son while Lester and I discuss the falling.

I milled several nice crotches and limbs. (20" limbs!) Good looking stuff so far. Tomorrow we tackle the last two limbs and then the trunk. I won't forget the camera tomorrow.


http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=125041&stc=1&d=1266023626
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StihlHank, :))) keep us up to date with pics and information.

Be careful and stay safe.

Kevin
 
Big day today - well big half day.

I got there after lunch and we started cutting......
Here's the stump and the second cut (first after the guide board cut).

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more to come after supper
 
I wished for a bigger mill today. I had to cut off some of the live edge - like a foot or more on the top end. I regretted that, but life goes on. I have a line on a 60" bar so maybe the next tree will get better treatment.

More pictures.

Here's the top end of the trunk.

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We found some interesting things in the wood.
Several big grubs, here's one of them.

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But this hurt.

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Its a piece of metal adjustable shelf standard. Boogered a couple of teeth a little but I filed 'em back into shape. Lester dug it out with a chisel. Digging metal and sharpening added some time to the day!
 
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Another view of the pile.

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I learned a few things today.

1) The 3120 is a great milling saw except for the exhaust. I gotta fix that.

2) When the wood gets bigger the 3120 gets better.

3) A respirator helps a lot but even better is a respirator and being upwind of the exhaust.

4) Milling a tree this big is a little like eating an elephant.

5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.

6) Falling a tree with the top cut out when viewed against a featureless sky was worrisome. I could not see any indication of the tree moving while looking up. Never saw the upper part move. When the kerf started opening I moved out. I'm filing that for reference.

7) I had it wedged with 3 wedges driven all the way in and wished I had some thicker ones. I will next time.
 
Great job, and some handsome slabs with lots of character.:clap:

Some of your pics didn't show up in post #8.

I wish I had maple to mill, but you can keep the urban metal. :)

Thanks for sharing.
 
That's some nice looking slabs you have there HH. :cheers:

1) The 3120 is a great milling saw except for the exhaust. I gotta fix that.
2) When the wood gets bigger the 3120 gets better.
3) A respirator helps a lot but even better is a respirator and being upwind of the exhaust.
The exhaust is not just a problem for the 3120, it's a problem with all saws with a forward facing exhaust. The first big saw I used for milling was my 076 and just assumed all other big saws would be the same. But when I do use a forward exhaust facing saw for milling I get a headache after a couple of hours of use. The best modification I made to my 880 was the redirection of the exhaust. The exhaust direction can clearly be seen as the exhaust drives the sawdust away from the operator so the operator does not have to walk in an ever increasing pile of sawdust.
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4) Milling a tree this big is a little like eating an elephant.
5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.

Yep , its only 33% wider but it's 77% more volume.
 
That's some nice looking slabs you have there HH. :cheers:


The exhaust is not just a problem for the 3120, it's a problem with all saws with a forward facing exhaust. The first big saw I used for milling was my 076 and just assumed all other big saws would be the same. But when I do use a forward exhaust facing saw for milling I get a headache after a couple of hours of use. The best modification I made to my 880 was the redirection of the exhaust. The exhaust direction can clearly be seen as the exhaust drives the sawdust away from the operator so the operator does not have to walk in an ever increasing pile of sawdust.

My 2100 has the jungle style muffler with louvers that directs the exhaust out the bottom of the saw. I never knew how lucky I was to have that.

Modifying the 3120 muffler won't be that hard. The hang-up comes when its time to tune for the new pipe and its got a fixed high speed jet.


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My 2100 has the jungle style muffler with louvers that directs the exhaust out the bottom of the saw. I never knew how lucky I was to have that.

Modifying the 3120 muffler won't be that hard. The hang-up comes when its time to tune for the new pipe and its got a fixed high speed jet.


.

I was also fortunate with the motor on my mill in that the exhaust port is on the bottom of motor. I was able to fabricate an exhaust pipe the exits out and away from the operator. I get no exhaust fumes at all when the mill is in operation. Doing a muffler mod to the newer front exhaust saw I would think is a must do.

Here is a picture of my exhaust pipe. I also just added a couple of thin wall stainless steel handle bars for moving the mill to and from the logs. It is much easier to handle now with two people.

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A backwards facing piston saw like the 076 and the way the Wards engine is oriented are ideal for CS mills.

A specifically ideally designed engine for a chainsaw mill would have a backwards facing piston, the carby on the top (cleaner location) and the exhaust underneath and the fuel tank on the side. Could be a good project?
 
5) A 40 inch tree is a lot more wood than a 30" tree.

And a 54" tree in a lot more than a 40"!!
I just cut one more slab and had to trim the side again to get it to fit in my mill. (Max of about 53.5") 53.5" wide and 6' long took 2 full tanks on my 394xp on a freshly sharpened chain!!


7) I had it wedged with 3 wedges driven all the way in and wished I had some thicker ones. I will next time.

That's when I just send my monkey, er, I mean climber up the tree to put a rope in the top to be able to pull it over. :)


Nice pictures and great slabs.
 
Here is a picture of my exhaust pipe. I also just added a couple of thin wall stainless steel handle bars for moving the mill to and from the logs. It is much easier to handle now with two people.

Jerry I just love your exhaust, except perhaps the way it sticks out like that worries me a little that someone could make contact with it. BTW how hot does the engine casing get

Nicely made handles there, but IMHO it's increasingly looking like a two man operation? Maybe you have resigned yourself to that, but as a one man operator I would have gone for more of a wrap around handle like this.

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As well as making it easier for one person to pick the mill/saw up this would provide the operator with something to hang onto and brace with, say the left hand, while starting the saw with the right hand. It would also act as bit of bumper bar for the saw in general. Also for moving any big mill/saw around I recommend removable wheels on the outboard ends of the mill rails, then a wrap around handle such as the one I have drawn would work as a one handed pickup/push/pull handle. These are just ideas coming out of the top of my head as I write - overall I reckon you have made a very well thought out mill.
 
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820 Operating Temperature

Jerry I just love your exhaust, except perhaps the way it sticks out like that worries me a little that someone could make contact with it. BTW how hot does the engine casing get

Hi Bob,

The exhaust pipe does stick out and it does look like you could touch it with your legs, but it really is not bad. I have yet to get too close to the pipe to worry about getting burned. I wear my wood cutting chaps so I've eliminated the burn factor. As for engine temperature, it is not bad at all. The engine cover that the starter is connected to has additional baffling that creates addition cooling over the cylinder head so I'm quite pleased as to how cool the engine stays. I have yet to mill anything over 7' long so I'm not sure how hot the motor will get on a real long piece of timber.



Nicely made handles there, but IMHO it's increasingly looking like a two man operation? Maybe you have resigned yourself to that, but as a one man operator I would have gone for more of a wrap around handle like this.

** You are correct that the handles are for a two person operation. I don't cut firewood or now mill alone. It's like hunting by myself, I don't do it. The mill is large and weights right at 60 pounds with fuel/oil. I could get the mill started on my starting board or rails by myself, but it's just much easier with two people. Besides, it's much more fun to mill with my friends.

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As well as making it easier for one person to pick the mill/saw up this would provide the operator with something to hang onto and brace with, say the left hand, while starting the saw with the right hand. It would also act as bit of bumper bar for the saw in general.

** I was having difficulty finding a spot for lifting the mill, that is why I added the two additional handles. The handle closest to the operator should give me the ability to use it as a spot to push or bump with my leg.

Also for moving any big mill/saw around I recommend removable wheels on the outboard ends of the mill rails,


** I have already gotten a set of wheels and only need to make the appropriate axle brackets to add to the end of the rails, just haven't done that yet.


then a wrap around handle such as the one I have drawn would work as a one handed pickup/push/pull handle. These are just ideas coming out of the top of my head as I write - overall I reckon you have made a very well thought out mill.


** I was going to try having the thin wall SS tubing bent into a single piece, but it wasn't long enough to do it in one continuous bend. If I don't like the two separate handles I'll get more tubing and have a new handle bent. My other problem is finding someone around here who can mandrel bend 3/4"OD thin wall stainless steel tubing.


** I have some Blue Oak at a ranch near me that was cut down by the local power company just before winter and the owner of the ranch was VERY upset that they cut the tree with out telling him. So my son and I went up there with the jeep and stacked the large pieces on some bigger limbs and painted the ends. I'm headed out this coming Wednesday to check on the how muddy that area is for getting the mill to the wood. When I mill it I will know how well the new handles work or not.

Some Blue Oak
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Earlier in this thread I asked what the weight of those large slabs of maple weigh because I have no way of lifting/moving large slabs up on the side of a slight hill where I'll be milling. Right now I'm trying to keep my milled slabs at around 6' long so that two people can move them comfortably.

I'll let you know how it goes.

jerry-
 
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