Bigger Dogs on my 361 !!!

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Lake I was quoted that price by my local dealer. I also have to pay shipping. I will use your price as leverage tomorrow. Thanks.

A way cool way to add dogs is to replace your cover with a 441 full wrap cover and add 441 bar studs at the same time. This is a bit pricey but the end result is nice.

Edited to add--- Oops I forgot to say when you add the bigger dogs you have to file off about an 1/8" of boss. Well worth the 3 minutes it takes.
 
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Lake I was quoted that price by my local dealer. I also have to pay shipping. I will use your price as leverage tomorrow. Thanks.

A way cool way to add dogs is to replace your cover with a 441 full wrap cover and add 441 bar studs at the same time. This is a bit pricey but the end result is nice.

Edited to add--- Oops I forgot to say when you add the bigger dogs you have to file off about an 1/8" of boss. Well worth the 3 minutes it takes.

The full kit contains the 441 full depth cover...

Have your dealer check part numbers - ON LINE ( not his out-of-date price books from last year) for 1135 007 1007 (full kit), and 1135 790 3600 (handle bar). Pay Freight? Tell him to take the freight out of his 40% margin! or find another dealer..
 
Wow I think you just gave away the farm there Lake. 40% markup hmm? Now everyone knows dealer cost. LOL

Thanks again Lake I'll be at the dealer tomorrow re that 3/4 wrap handle.

BTW my 361 is no barn burner. It does not come close to my 357XP running the same chain on a 20" bar. I think there must be something wrong with it. The idle changes constantly and I have to keep it pretty high, almost to the point of chain movement. Sometimes when I pick it up it dies, same when I turned around with the saw in my hands. My saw mechanic kept it for a couple of days last month but it behaved itself while he had it. When I try to restart it after it dies it starts hard, 6-8 pulls. It feels like low compression at those times. If I just shut the saw off and restart it everything feels right. The carb was cleaned of Welch plug sealant last month or maybe August. The saw checked out fine otherwise (new clutch springs at that time). When in the cut the saw performs OK, maybe better than OK. It starts easy cold or when shut down hot. Any ideas?

An old thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=30541&highlight=modded+361
 
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what is better about bigger dogs?

Bigger dogs will bite deeper into the bark on the trees
that have deeper bark. :dizzy:

It really means they're more agressive,
and can give better leverage when the dogs are against the bark.

I'm sure there's a better way to explain it,
but, that's pretty close.

:cheers:
 
What I do is that esp on the diagonal cut you line up the dogs so that the chain cuts to exactly form the corners. You still have to make sure the chain is where you want it but I have used my saw enough to start with the dogs. Conventional or Humboldt the dogs form the rear sights and the chain forms the front. I can't emagine a saw without dogs. I read the thread where the shop grinds off the dogs so no one can dog in and I think it is nuts. Yeah, the guy is east of the Sierras, you know the kind.
 
What I do is that esp on the diagonal cut you line up the dogs so that the chain cuts to exactly form the corners. You still have to make sure the chain is where you want it but I have used my saw enough to start with the dogs. Conventional or Humboldt the dogs form the rear sights and the chain forms the front. I can't emagine a saw without dogs. I read the thread where the shop grinds off the dogs so no one can dog in and I think it is nuts. Yeah, the guy is east of the Sierras, you know the kind.
50 cc no dawgs 13 inch logging saw:chainsaw:
 
what is better about bigger dogs?

There are many benefits;

Proper bite on flared butts, deeply furrowed bark, flushing stumps, cutting crotchy/uneven pieces, etc.......

The extra space(someone discribed as "stand off") between saw and wood helps with chip clearance, especially when your saw is producing "curly fries" or when doing a push cut with top of bar.

Reduces, somewhat, heat directly transfered to bark, maybe not a huge thing, but if cutting during high fire danger probably a good thing.

And oh yeah, they look really cool.:cool:

Downsides(I feel to be fair I should mention these);

Loss of a small portion of your bar's cutting capacity.

Can be a PITA when working in brushy/viney environment.

Have to be careful when carrying saw to/from worksite, bigger dawgs take a bigger bite out of the back of your thigh, behind your chap coverage. Even worse when wearing shorts for you Southern folk.:) Also care must be taken when doing the "over the shoulder" carry, old fire hose or an old sweat shirt comes in handy here.

You may get called a PNW'er (and feel the need to put a 28" Bar w/skip chain on a 3.0 cube saw):chainsaw:

Overall Benefits far outwiegh the negatives for me, on my bigger saws anyways. Little saws stay single, small dawged.
 
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Ferget the dawgs and the half wrap. What is that I see on the exhaust of that 361 of yours there, Gary??? Looks like a nice little goodie muffler mod to me. :smoking:
 
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What I do is that esp on the diagonal cut you line up the dogs so that the chain cuts to exactly form the corners. You still have to make sure the chain is where you want it but I have used my saw enough to start with the dogs. Conventional or Humboldt the dogs form the rear sights and the chain forms the front. I can't emagine a saw without dogs. I read the thread where the shop grinds off the dogs so no one can dog in and I think it is nuts. Yeah, the guy is east of the Sierras, you know the kind.

I have removed the small single one that came on my 361, different conditions - different needs......:greenchainsaw:
 
I have removed the small single one that came on my 361, different conditions - different needs......:greenchainsaw:

You don't buck with your 361? If you use the middle of the bar there is no need for the teeth I guess. Felling smaller diameter trees I cut at the middle of the bar don't use the dawgs. But on felling a meatier fir or bucking rounds, I sink the teeth into the bark and lever it and let the saw do the work for me. Need dawgs for that.

Looking at the 880 the other day, man, the dawgs in that thing were monsters!
 
You don't buck with your 361? If you use the middle of the bar there is no need for the teeth I guess. Felling smaller diameter trees I cut at the middle of the bar don't use the dawgs. But on felling a meatier fir or bucking rounds, I sink the teeth into the bark and lever it and let the saw do the work for me. Need dawgs for that.

Looking at the 880 the other day, man, the dawgs in that thing were monsters!

I often fell and buck trees that is a bit thicker than the bar is long with it ("overbucking" a bit), but very seldom more than 20".
I feel no need for the dawgs for that applications, they are only in the way, imo - and for the smaller ones, about as you say.

Larger trees with longer bars and heavier powerheads sure would be another story, but there aren't too many of those here......
 
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I have removed the small single one that came on my 361, different conditions - different needs......:greenchainsaw:

I'm confused, you don't need dogs, and don't use long bars. Hmmm, here in the States that we would just use a Wild Thing.:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 

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