Blocking, chunking, undermining the COG

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Brings up an interesting point that probably a lot of people haven't thought of. I had an old timer we were subbing for mention the deep notch/center of gravity thing years ago. I always kinda kept that in the back of my head.
 
Nice vid, they are both tools that are in my box. I was taught the COB notch by another tree man around 15 years ago. I use the snap cut more often but still are both tools.
 
Once I get to about 12" in diameter, I'll switch from snap cuts to the over center method Reg shows. It is nice to not have to worry about wedging or pushing.

Like he says, just go slow and let gravity take over. Although I'm pretty conservative with the lengths I take. At 18"-24" more than about 5' at a time is still pretty intimidating for me
 
I didn't know it had a name but I use the COB mostly on big short sticks, cutting from the ground. It makes it a lot easier to pull them over when you don't have the height to give you leverage.
Not something for inexperienced climbers to try up in the tree(as you stated) It would be easy to misjudge the back cut or lean of the tree, or wobble while moving and cause it to let loose to soon, going where it wanted.
I use the snap cut a lot, but again like you said, I'm pretty conservative on length. I work around structures a lot and would fear one might get away from me. I use the snap cut on horizontal pieces a lot too. So long as there not to end heavy. They'll rest right there so I can snap them off and toss them if needed.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to do it and keep them coming.
 
Reg, what I did notice and thought was interesting was when you make your snap cuts during the first part of the video, you make your second cut above the first. I've always done my second cut lower. I was taught this way so if that piece decides to go on its own, your saw won't be stuck in the kerf of the overlap.

Does that make sense?

Just wondering if there's a specific reason you cut first low, second high?
 
Reg, what I did notice and thought was interesting was when you make your snap cuts during the first part of the video, you make your second cut above the first. I've always done my second cut lower. I was taught this way so if that piece decides to go on its own, your saw won't be stuck in the kerf of the overlap.

Does that make sense?

Just wondering if there's a specific reason you cut first low, second high?

What you're saying rarely comes in to play unless youre cutting into leaning sections, limbs, and more-so horizontal branches and stuff. Straight up logs generally dont go anywhere until you push them....unless you're cuts are bad. To set the cuts as you describe will inevitably send the logs into a tumble, like tripping it over as it tips. By setting them as you see in the video gives the option of sliding the butt off so the log falls and lands horizontal, within a 60ft drop say. We do this a lot when trying to minimize the damage to a yard etc. This actually works better with longer sections, as opposed to short ones (see pic).

Another important point is that when you make your cuts, a long section is going to lean towards the side with biggest cut. Lets say you cut 70% from one side, and 40 from the other.....on an 8ft+ log its gonna take a lean towards the 70% side. Something to factor in if the section already has some kind of lean. If in doubt, cut smaller.DSC01943 - Copy.JPG
 
What you're saying rarely comes in to play unless youre cutting into leaning sections, limbs, and more-so horizontal branches and stuff. Straight up logs generally dont go anywhere until you push them....unless you're cuts are bad. To set the cuts as you describe will inevitably send the logs into a tumble, like tripping it over as it tips. By setting them as you see in the video gives the option of sliding the butt off so the log falls and lands horizontal, within a 60ft drop say. We do this a lot when trying to minimize the damage to a yard etc. This actually works better with longer sections, as opposed to short ones (see pic).

Another important point is that when you make your cuts, a long section is going to lean towards the side with biggest cut. Lets say you cut 70% from one side, and 40 from the other.....on an 8ft+ log its gonna take a lean towards the 70% side. Something to factor in if the section already has some kind of lean. If in doubt, cut smaller.View attachment 327014

Yeah, that makes sense about leaners being more prone to the problem. I guess I hadn't given much thought to the tumble factor, but that's good to know. More often than not, my chunking is rigged out as opposed to bombing, which gives a much shorter fall distance to observe rates of tumble

But like you said, the stem leans toward to deeper cut. I just noticed that you push your chunks towards your first cut, which is the shallow cut. So should your first cut be the deeper one when using the snap/bypass cut technique? Again, maybe it's not as relevant in smaller wood, say 10"-12" and under

Note that m just referring to the first 1:00 of your vid.

Thanks for the response.

Keep the vids coming, you've been an inspiration to me and no doubt many others for a couple years now.

Cheers.
 
But like you said, the stem leans toward to deeper cut. I just noticed that you push your chunks towards your first cut, which is the shallow cut. So should your first cut be the deeper one when using the snap/bypass cut technique? Again, maybe it's not as relevant in smaller wood, say 10"-12" and under

Note that m just referring to the first 1:00 of your vid.

.

It depends on the size and weight. You dont really want it to pinch your saw....nor suddenly lean back towards either....potentially breaking the grain. You can do it the opposite way around also, with the deeper cut on the opposite side, so it leans away. But then it requires more force to direct and snap it off in your opposite direction.... Although, they do tend to be easier to slide/drop off butt first this way, if that be an incentive. Nothing wrong with just playing safe at 60/60 either. Depends what advantage you're trying to gain, really. Learn your limitations, thats the point really.
 
Excessive cutting time for staight up and down firs. No need for face/snap cuts for pieces of that size. Cutting straight through and a push is how most guys do it in this region.
 
Right on, I guess the bottom line is, go with what works, safely. I'll have to experiment on my next conifer project.

Thanks again Reg.
 
Excessive cutting time for staight up and down firs. No need for face/snap cuts for pieces of that size. Cutting straight through and a push is how most guys do it in this region.


I've done it that way as well. I'll cut a ways through, then I insert a fiberglass rod to keep the kerf open. That way I can cut clean through and get the saw on my hip so I have both hands available to push larger, heavy rounds. It's slick. But with smaller rounds, when using that technique, the rod just makes it easier to push off with one hand.

I've even been known to cut at a downward angle on a leaner so that my cut is perpendicular to the trunk and it'll just slide right off. But I digress...
 
Excessive cutting time for staight up and down firs. No need for face/snap cuts for pieces of that size. Cutting straight through and a push is how most guys do it in this region.

I would agree, for that 3 foot log on your avatar. Absolutely.
 
Just PUSH!

207ugqf.jpg


261bxjd.jpg
 
e="Reg, post: 4642771, member: 21216"]I would agree, for that 3 foot log on your avatar. Absolutely.[/quo
Youre sending 6 foot sections finessing every cut. I could send send three 3' pieces while you are busy playing with the throttle. If you do 4-8 removals that adds up. The 2/3 method is a great tool for a big spar for sure. Btw in my avatar im dropping a round between a carport and driveway in the 10th largest city in america. Not some unknown island in the middle of nowhere b.c. Youre good but your ego and inability to listen to anyone elses post is so European.
 
I don't know what the size of the city you work in has to do with anything... Tight spaces are tight spaces, and people value their property, even in one horse towns.
 
e="Reg, post: 4642771, member: 21216"]I would agree, for that 3 foot log on your avatar. Absolutely.[/quo
Youre sending 6 foot sections finessing every cut. I could send send three 3' pieces while you are busy playing with the throttle. If you do 4-8 removals that adds up. The 2/3 method is a great tool for a big spar for sure. Btw in my avatar im dropping a round between a carport and driveway in the 10th largest city in america. Not some unknown island in the middle of nowhere b.c. Youre good but your ego and inability to listen to anyone elses post is so European.

Youre in the 10th largest city in the uS, pushing off a 3 ft log....your point is ?

Im sure there is more to your avatar than meets the eye, no offense there mr Holden.

Have you ever heard the saying 'do as i say, not as I do' ? If one hanldling a saw and pushing with the freehand is a violation then I should be in jail time over. But Im hardly gonna start telling others on line 'thats the way to go'. That wouldn't be smart, mate.

The attached photo was taken when I was 20, Im 41 now. Are you gonna tell me how to block down a few bean poles out here in the PNW? Really?

As for my ego and inability to listen....remind me, when did we meet ? I've obviously forgotten. $hit maybe you made a good point there.

The video was more about the undermining technique. I didnt really expect a big talk about snapcuts and whatnot.

Edit: the 2/3rd cutting are all 10-12ft sections mate....apart from the last 2. 30in bar. The wide angled lens on the camera makes everything look squashed.

img021.jpg
 
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I don't know what the size of the city you work in has to do with anything... Tight spaces are tight spaces, and people value their property, even in one horse towns.
Youre a nurse that does tree work on the weekends as "hobby". And yes city work is much different then your family and friends jobs In the sticks.
 
Youre in the 10th largest city in the uS, pushing off a 3 ft log....your point is ?

Im sure there is more to your avatar than meets the eye, no offense there mr Holden.

Have you ever heard the saying 'do as i say, not as I do' ? If one hanldling a saw and pushing with the freehand is a violation then I should be in jail time over. But Im hardly gonna start telling others on line 'thats the way to go'. That wouldn't be smart, mate.

The attached photo was taken when I was 20, Im 41 now. Are you gonna tell me how to block down a few bean poles out here in the PNW? Really?
My point is I could get the same results as you in half the time without all the excess cutting. Nice vid but youre nuts if you think this wouldnt get questioned for inefficiency. anyway ill let the rest of these fluffers ride your leg, was just trying to add some constructive criticism.

As for my ego and inability to listen....remind me, when did we meet ? I've obviously forgotten. $hit maybe you made a good point there.

The video was more about the undermining technique. I didnt really expect a big talk about snapcuts and whatnot.

Edit: the 2/3rd cutting are all 10-12ft sections mate....apart from the last 2. 30in bar. The wide angled lens on the camera makes everything look squashed.

View attachment 327035
Youre in the 10th largest city in the uS, pushing off a 3 ft log....your point is ?

Im sure there is more to your avatar than meets the eye, no offense there mr Holden.

Have you ever heard the saying 'do as i say, not as I do' ? If one hanldling a saw and pushing with the freehand is a violation then I should be in jail time over. But Im hardly gonna start telling others on line 'thats the way to go'. That wouldn't be smart, mate.

The attached photo was taken when I was 20, Im 41 now. Are you gonna tell me how to block down a few bean poles out here in the PNW? Really?

As for my ego and inability to listen....remind me, when did we meet ? I've obviously forgotten. $hit maybe you made a good point there.

The video was more about the undermining technique. I didnt really expect a big talk about snapcuts and whatnot.

Edit: the 2/3rd cutting are all 10-12ft sections mate....apart from the last 2. 30in bar. The wide angled lens on the camera makes everything look squashed.

View attachment 327035
Youre in the 10th largest city in the uS, pushing off a 3 ft log....your point is ?

Im sure there is more to your avatar than meets the eye, no offense there mr Holden.

Have you ever heard the saying 'do as i say, not as I do' ? If one hanldling a saw and pushing with the freehand is a violation then I should be in jail time over. But Im hardly gonna start telling others on line 'thats the way to go'. That wouldn't be smart, mate.

The attached photo was taken when I was 20, Im 41 now. Are you gonna tell me how to block down a few bean poles out here in the PNW? Really?

As for my ego and inability to listen....remind me, when did we meet ? I've obviously forgotten. $hit maybe you made a good point there.

The video was more about the undermining technique. I didnt really expect a big talk about snapcuts and whatnot.

Edit: the 2/3rd cutting are all 10-12ft sections mate....apart from the last 2. 30in bar. The wide angled lens on the camera makes everything look squashed.

View attachment 327035
 

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