Bore back cut advice

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I have used Gary's Coos Bay Cut on ONE hard leaner, and it worked. It worked beautifully. I've used a bore cut a couple of times and it also worked wonderfully.

After using the Coos Bay T cut several times over the last 3-4 weeks, I am sold on it and don't see the need to be doing bore cuts on leaners (at least in my head). In reality, both the Coos Bay and boring are successful ways to tackle the problem of barber chairing, by addressing fundamental mechanics of materials, but the Coos Bay works in situations where you can't bore and I think it lends more control over the felling.

I think it's important to consider the fundamentals of the barber chair event. Essentially, it's caused by loads on the tree (either due to lean+gravity, mass+gravity, or wind load, among others) that create a strong shear plane within the central grain (it could also be caused by a Dutchman that acts like a splitting wedge and shears the grain, but that's a different case to consider).

The bore tackles the shear problem by removing much of the central grain. So there's significantly less of it to shear. It also removes outer holding wood in the vicinity of the typical shear plane. Then you're usually left with a back strap, far from the center so it has good leverage, holding things together until the final cut. That strap is a bit of an on/off deal -- once you get through it, the tree should go over instantly.

The Coos Bay T removes outer holding wood that acts or leverages against the central grain to create the shear, and also removes much of the central grain, only leaving a small perpendicular strap. You can cut away at that and the tree will more gradually begin to go over. There may be a mini barber-chair within the small strap, but it's been isolated to a small grain region far from the outer holding wood, so it's not of significance.

My personal experience is that the Coos Bay T is easier and more versatile given a range of tree and bar sizes you may run into, and it also slows down the final felling action for a bit more control.

I have not tried the triangle enough to want to comment on it. But again, I think the mechanics of the shear created between inner grain and outer holding wood can explain it.
 
So...back to the op about my not always keeping the bar level.
Is it maybe not too critical as long as I keep everything above the notch ? Any tips for staying level or should I go ahead and put the bubble level on ? LOL

In my opinion if stay within an inch above your notch you are usually fine when felling in the direction of the lean. When felling side ways or into the lean I always make my cuts as even as I can to increase hinge strength. I try to stay a way from under cutting. That splits a lot of trees.
I would try kneeling next to the tree lay your bar flat on your "level" notch. Pull your saw away from the tree keeping it level and start your bore cut. Just make sure you stand up before releasing it. Practice is the best thing. I know lots of loggers who have crooked stumps. Including me.
A 25 year cutter/feller said to me recently "If you make one bad stump everyone sees it. No one sees the perfect ones."
 
I only see one thing wrong with the T or triangle methods and that is you are still hanging out at the stump racing the tree to keep from splitting. Just less wood to cut. But I'm gonna try it thats for sure.
 
One of the major causes of barberchair is the failure to use a deep enough facecut and or not enough angle.
Another factor is placing the backcut too high, it should not be more than a couple inches higher than your gunning cut. The only problem I have had with the triangle method is excessive stump pull, not that big a deal in noncommercial timber.
 
So...back to the op about my not always keeping the bar level.
Is it maybe not too critical as long as I keep everything above the notch ? Any tips for staying level or should I go ahead and put the bubble level on ? LOL

Brian, I hate too weigh in among the experts here (I'm not one) but Slowp is on the money - practice. If you are just cutting firewood cut a stump high then use the stump for practice. Just as you can learn to know where the tip of your bar is, you can learn to level it. Ron
 

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