Bought a “hardly used saw that’s been well maintained” yeah I hate people

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Lumptastic

Slut for saws
Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
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Location
Forest grove, OR
I think from the title you know where this is going. I had all larger saw 880, 2 066 and a 440. Though I love the lightsaber type cutting a large saw with a small bar gets you I decided to pick up a smaller saw the guy I bought a 260 from seemed to know what he was talking about I just didn’t realize he was a shady A hole. Figured out after getting it home that the saw I bought even though it started right up the top end was trash. Just pulled it apart and the bottom of the connecting rod is blue. You can imagine the joy that was the bearings don’t make a sound and there’s no play in them so I’m in a bit of a dilemma put the top end on and run it or split the case and go for a ground up rebuild. Has anyone had this scenario put the top end on and had it last for a decent amount of time? When I got it home I figured out the muffler was a little loose so that would’ve probably been the cause of it running lean image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Surprisingly it would fire right up and idle fine. I typically always give them 30 seconds or so at idle to warm up before I start a cut and about ten seconds in it would loose power even if you pulled it out and gave it gas I don’t think it would get over 6000rpm. At first I thought it was a vapor lock because the first time it did it I turned it off and checked the air filter that was kinda dirty and it fired right back up and did the same thing that time I immediately pulled the gas cap and didn’t hear anything. That’s when I decided I should pull the muffler and take a peek. Well I think you know what I found. Lesson learned. I’ll never even consider buying another used saw without immediately pulling the muffler to have a look
 
I was reading through some old husky service bulletins and one stated the rod may have a blue appearance and that it was due to heat treatment. Not saying the same applies to Stihl but it was interesting nonetheless. I would think the crank and bearing would also be discolored if it got that hot from lack of lubrication, but you never know.
 
It might not be as bad as you think. Clearly the piston is toast and needs to be replaced.
The cylinder will have aluminum deposits in the bore, but an acid treatment might remove them revealing a usable bore.
I've been surprised more than once by a straight gassed Stihl that had a trashed piston, but a serviceable bore after cleaning.
 
Ok the
It might not be as bad as you think. Clearly the piston is toast and needs to be replaced.
The cylinder will have aluminum deposits in the bore, but an acid treatment might remove them revealing a usable bore.
I've been surprised more than once by a straight gassed Stihl that had a trashed piston, but a serviceable bore after cleaning.
ok everything else looks fine I already have a new piston and cylinder I was going to put on.
 
I was reading through some old husky service bulletins and one stated the rod may have a blue appearance and that it was due to heat treatment.

I have seen that in many two strokes, its common.

Ball and roller bearings need very little oil compared to the huge hot piston sliding up down in the cylinder. Unless they got debris in them they're often fine when the piston's toast.
 
Yeah... was gonna ask... is this what happens if you forget your oil replacement in the mix?
It’s what happens running too lean in general it could be carb out of adjustment, straight gas, an air leak, not enough back pressure from muffler, and so on in this case I suspect it was ran on straight gas but the muffler was loose so that could’ve been it or just contributed. Basically lean gets the engine hotter and that’s the end result. That’s bad typically it’s not all the way across the exhaust side but looking threw the exhaust port more of the left side because the flywheel cools the other side better
 
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