Bought a 385

[B_Turner]

according to our husky rep the 385 isn't going anywhere for at least a year if not longer.

I can sort of believe that because the almost 100 bucks difference gives them two markets for a while.

 

[Cam501]

I got my new 385 w/ a 28 inch bar today. I put the full wrap handle on and the bar and chain, is there anything I should check out before I fire it up? Where should the oiler be set at? The manual says it should be 4 turns out but it doesn't seem to have a closed position, am I doing something wrong? I am pretty excited to get it started and see how it cuts.

The manual says to run 50:1 gas but should I go 40:1 for the first few tanks to help the break in?

I don't know what to expect from it, this is my first new saw. The old pioneer P-50 that I have seems to be about as heavy.

I decided to go the with internet instead of a dealer. I read alot of posts on here about it and wanted to go with a dealer but he wanted 200 dollars more. When I went in to the shop he didn't seem to know any more than I did, he didn't know what a 372 was and said the saw was setup from the factory and they didn't do anything to them.

This site has been a great help to a newbie. Thanks for any help, Jake

I can't get any more 372's, but anyhow, you local dealer is a dumbass for not knowing what it was. I also can't match a $200 difference, cause i'd be selling below cost, but regardless it's a shame that there seems to be no shortage of dealers like yours that give those of us that are reputable a bad name.

 

[Four Paws]

I wish the saw manufacturers would go back to the 4 cube, 5 cube, 6 cube sizing on saws. I think it makes for a more balanced quiver. There is so much overlap across the model lines, making saws hard to compare to their competitors - perhaps that is a marketing strategy? Makes the older saws more desirable for the racers out there.

 

[Four Paws]

I can't get any more 372's, but anyhow, you local dealer is a dumbass for not knowing what it was. I also can't match a $200 difference, cause i'd be selling below cost, but regardless it's a shame that there seems to be no shortage of dealers like yours that give those of us that are reputable a bad name.

Not many dealers are enthusiasts, or up to speed on the full product line of equipment - let alone models that are not listed in the newest catalogs. Most sell 455 Ranchers (now 460) to Joe Homeowner who has no need for a large, professional saw. I don't think him buying online was a hit at you or any other respectable dealer. Truth is, most of the help that I have dealt with at dealerships are jackasses with a poor knowledge of their equipment. I have had a few good experiences - mostly mom and pop shops, run by old-timers that still know the value of a dollar, a good customer, and a hard days work.

Josh

 

[bookerdog]

Not many dealers are enthusiasts, or up to speed on the full product line of equipment - let alone models that are not listed in the newest catalogs. Most sell 455 Ranchers (now 460) to Joe Homeowner who has no need for a large, professional saw. I don't think him buying online was a hit at you or any other respectable dealer. Truth is, most of the help that I have dealt with at dealerships are jackasses with a poor knowledge of their equipment. I have had a few good experiences - mostly mom and pop shops, run by old-timers that still know the value of a dollar, a good customer, and a hard days work.

Josh

That seems to be true with all stores now.

 

[ross01]

Thanks for all the replys everyone. I got the saw started today and cut off the rest of a broken limb on a tree be the house. The saw ran good, I think the carb needs a little bit of adjusting but I like it so far. Sorry but I am not set up to do any pictures.

Something that I learned, having a new chainsaw is like haveing a sharp knife, you just have to find something to cut with it! I was running around our place looking for anything to test the saw out.

I think I got the oiler working decent. It is not putting out lots of oil but enough I can see a little on the floor of the shop when I run it fast.

About the old P-50, I wish I could make a fair comparision but the p-50 isn't running very good. When it did run good I would say they might be close but the 385 prolly has a little more power. My P-50 only has a 20 inch bar on it. I wish I had it when it was new, my dad said that it was a good running saw.

Oh, I live in southeast Idaho, in a little town called Howe. We live way out here in the sticks. Thanks again for all the help, Jake

 

[bookerdog]

Thanks for all the replys everyone. I got the saw started today and cut off the rest of a broken limb on a tree be the house. The saw ran good, I think the carb needs a little bit of adjusting but I like it so far. Sorry but I am not set up to do any pictures.

Something that I learned, having a new chainsaw is like haveing a sharp knife, you just have to find something to cut with it! I was running around our place looking for anything to test the saw out.

I think I got the oiler working decent. It is not putting out lots of oil but enough I can see a little on the floor of the shop when I run it fast.

About the old P-50, I wish I could make a fair comparision but the p-50 isn't running very good. When it did run good I would say they might be close but the 385 prolly has a little more power. My P-50 only has a 20 inch bar on it. I wish I had it when it was new, my dad said that it was a good running saw.

Oh, I live in southeast Idaho, in a little town called Howe. We live way out here in the sticks. Thanks again for all the help, Jake

Hey jake great for you I know that feeling with a new saw. I hunt chuckars all the time up brownlee and sucker creek.

 

[B_Turner]

I wish the saw manufacturers would go back to the 4 cube, 5 cube, 6 cube sizing on saws. I think it makes for a more balanced quiver. There is so much overlap across the model lines, making saws hard to compare to their competitors - perhaps that is a marketing strategy? Makes the older saws more desirable for the racers out there.

In response to you reference to wanting full wraps, I actually took off the full wraps on my 371 and 395 because of the way Husky routes the bar below the chip path (Stihl doesn't). Makes cutting noodles a real problem.

I'm keeping the full wrap bars just because, but I thought I'd point out this issue. Only a problem with noodle heads like me. Actually it's not a real problem anyway these days because my 7900's are my main noodle machines now. Not that much clearance under the cover, but enough torque that it's easy to get those noodles streaming well - esp with square.

 

[ChuckinOhio]

Your owners manual has a mis-print. The oiler screw has 4 positions that are 90 degrees apart. I know the manual says turns but, it should say clicks or positions.
Gregg

The oiler screw on my 385 has no definite clicks or stops. It will go from all the way screwed in to 3.5 turns out counterclockwise. Did Husky use different set ups on these saws at different points in manufacture?

Mine is an 02/00 model.

Chuck

 

[SawTroll]

On my 2171 I can turn the adjustment screw 4 1/4 turns from stop to stop whit 1/4 click.

Then I understand, I believe mine also has the clicks, but I haven't tried to go past 4 turns, so I don't know if there are a stop.

Anyway, the manual refers to turns, no mention of the clicks - and it looks like it is correct......

 

[SawTroll]

Must be one weak 660, have the owner take it in for a rebuild.

That was my thought also, something is not right with that 660, if a 385 beats it.........

 

[SawTroll]

So now I don't want a 385, but if the 390 were noticeably stronger than the 385 I might eventually get one of those to fill out my quiver a bit more.

.2kW/.3hp difference, if memory serves - not really close to the 395/660......

 

[woodfarmer]

385 over 372

will a 385 top end fit the 372 case bolt on?

 

[SawTroll]

will a 385 top end fit the 372 case bolt on?

I am pretty sure that it won't.

I believe Baileys offer a 372 BB set that is about 76.5 cc, though........

 

[BC_Logger]

That was my thought also, something is not right with that 660, if a 385 beats it.........

I didnt say it beat it but it kept up some what

 

[Four Paws]

In response to you reference to wanting full wraps, I actually took off the full wraps on my 371 and 395 because of the way Husky routes the bar below the chip path (Stihl doesn't). Makes cutting noodles a real problem.

I'm keeping the full wrap bars just because, but I thought I'd point out this issue. Only a problem with noodle heads like me. Actually it's not a real problem anyway these days because my 7900's are my main noodle machines now. Not that much clearance under the cover, but enough torque that it's easy to get those noodles streaming well - esp with square.

Thanks for the heads up about the wrap handles clogging up when ripping logs, but that won't be an issue for me. I just want to use it for falling and blocking bigger trees on steep terrain. Anyhow, if any of you have a 385 full wrap that you want to get rid of, let me know. Josh

 

[clearance]

In response to you reference to wanting full wraps, I actually took off the full wraps on my 371 and 395 because of the way Husky routes the bar below the chip path (Stihl doesn't). Makes cutting noodles a real problem.

I'm keeping the full wrap bars just because, but I thought I'd point out this issue. Only a problem with noodle heads like me. Actually it's not a real problem anyway these days because my 7900's are my main noodle machines now. Not that much clearance under the cover, but enough torque that it's easy to get those noodles streaming well - esp with square.

I have a 371, a 394 and a 395, all with wrap handles. Sometimes I quarter big firewood for people so they can move it. I know what you are talking about. What I do is hold the saw upside down and cut with the back of the bar, using my left hand on the trigger. Works great, try it.

 

[SawTroll]

I have a 371, a 394 and a 395, all with wrap handles. Sometimes I quarter big firewood for people so they can move it. I know what you are talking about. What I do is hold the saw upside down and cut with the back of the bar, using my left hand on the trigger. Works great, try it.

Get a Stihl - permanent solution to that problem, much better chip flow........

 

[B_Turner]

I have a 371, a 394 and a 395, all with wrap handles. Sometimes I quarter big firewood for people so they can move it. I know what you are talking about. What I do is hold the saw upside down and cut with the back of the bar, using my left hand on the trigger. Works great, try it.

That's interesting. I've never tried that. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Seems like the saw would be pushing against you pretty hard if you bury a long bar, but it's worth a try.

 

[B_Turner]

I have a 371, a 394 and a 395, all with wrap handles. Sometimes I quarter big firewood for people so they can move it. I know what you are talking about. What I do is hold the saw upside down and cut with the back of the bar, using my left hand on the trigger. Works great, try it.

I tried out this way of cutting noodles the other day. Saw upside down.

It does throw the shavings away very nicely, but I really wasn't comfortable doing it. I felt kind of vunerable with the action side of the saw facing up, and since the saw is now pushing instead of pulling, I really had to pay attention when using a big saw or it tried to come out of the wood.

An interesting technique and I'm sure if I did it more I'd get better at it, but it made me a bit uneasy.