Breakin' her in

[disandat]

The 028Super is a 51.5cc saw. The basic 028s are 47cc. So, the Super, if it is in good condition, should be a little more saw than the Dolmar.

http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/STIHL028_with_safety_manual.pdf

 

[B_Turner]

All "HYPE" aside I think I was expecting the Tasmanian Devil in a featherweight!!
10 tanks of gas.
She is a great little saw,did a muffler mod,got rid of the limiters and she opened up a little.
Little more torque in the cut with each tank of fuel just as I've been told.
I don't think I could ask for a better 50cc saw.
Fit and finish I could care less about.It still seems to be a well engineered saw.If I wanted pretty I could get that chrome pullon'
Still won't keep up with my 028S,but getting closer.
I think I just got lucky with this 028S.

Fit and finish wise I would be happy if a replacement outer handlebar cover would fit better. I am hoping the dealer will consider trading me for a new piece, if it would fit better. The inside and outside pieces are of different lengths and I am hoping that it is the outer piece (shouldn't be that expensive) is what is defective. Somehow maybe because it is associated with a handlebar, the mismatching jumps out at me. I don't really want to have to buy the new part on my own nickel, but I will if I have to. I want to have the 5100 start out right.

Can anyone with a 5100 offer a guess on which piece is the culprit from the images here?

 

[Lakeside53]

The 028Super is a 51.5cc saw. The basic 028s are 47cc. So, the Super, if it is in good condition, should be a little more saw than the Dolmar.

http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/STIHL028_with_safety_manual.pdf

There is about a 0.8 hp difference, and 20 years... The 028S is still a pretty good saw - cuts pretty much just like a stock 026. If you mess with an 026 and get 4hp out of it, and 14,500 it will cut just like the 5100.

 

[Marvinlee]

I took the ill-fitting handlebar cover off. On my saw it is marked on the inside with "PA6-GF", and "30/PA6". The fault seems entirely with the bar cover. The inside top boss, through which the upper fastener inserts, is positioned a bit too low. A tiny die change at the manufacturer's would easily correct the misfit. The lower boss could also benefit from repositioning, but it seems less the problem than the top boss. I carefully trimmed back the edges of the top part of the cover a millimeter or so, shortened the boss a trifle with a small belt sander, and now the piece fits much closer to the handlebar. This is the kind of trivial project one can do when it is unseasonably cold outside. Everything else on the saw fits sufficiently well to please me.

I weighed the saw new, without fuel or oil as it came out of the box. It weighed 11 pounds, 6 oz. without bar, chain, side cover, or side cover nuts. With just the side cover and nuts added, the saw weighed 11 pounds, 10 oz. The scales were accurate, state tested and state certified, 50 pound scales. Official weight data misleads a bit.

 

[ericjeeper]

Fit and finish.

Boys they are chainsaws, not pianos. I understand you want em pretty but i am for function over beauty..
That was what I used to say about my dates, back in the day..

 

[B_Turner]

Boys they are chainsaws, not pianos. I understand you want em pretty but i am for function over beauty...

We are not talking about giving up function for beauty, just basic quality control. Like someone standing at the end of the assembly line noticing that the last 5,000 of something have a problem. If having moldings that don't fit was functionally better, I would be all for it. I'd even do a mod to increase the gap.

 

[ericjeeper]

well I used to build bridges..

Our saying was.. it is not a piano just a way to get a piano across the creek.

 

[B_Turner]

Dealer pretty bluntly said all 5100 s have that misfitting joint and I am only the second person they are aware of that cared. I took it to mean the only real problem was me. I had asked about getting a replacement part, and his quick reply was I could return the saw. Whoa...

Surprising on first two counts, and interesting because if a Husky or Stihl "pro" model had a ongoing booboo like this the other camp would have a field day. I honestly think since it's a Dolmar expectations are a bit lower in quality control and no one squacks.

It's not a big a deal to me, really, just thought if I could get a part that fit great. But I guess that is why the 5100 is $400 and the 361 is closer to $600, you get what you pay for.

Functionally the 5100 seems like a nice saw, though, and I'm am sure I'll warm up to it. Just not a classic yet.

Love the 7900. And the 361 is looking a little sweeter to me now and I think I'll add one to the quiver soon as well. Can never have too many saws.

BTW I'm not losing any sleep over the matter, just a followup to my earlier post.

 

[DOLMARatOs]

Dealer pretty bluntly said all 5100 s have that misfitting joint and I am only the second person they are aware of that cared. I took it to mean the only real problem was me. I had asked about getting a replacement part, and his quick reply was I could return the saw. Whoa...

Surprising on first two counts, and interesting because if a Husky or Stihl "pro" model had a ongoing booboo like this the other camp would have a field day. I honestly think since it's a Dolmar expectations are a bit lower in quality control and no one squacks.

It's not a big a deal to me, really, just thought if I could get a part that fit great. But I guess that is why the 5100 is $400 and the 361 is closer to $600, you get what you pay for.

Functionally the 5100 seems like a nice saw, though, and I'm am sure I'll warm up to it. Just not a classic yet.

Love the 7900. And the 361 is looking a little sweeter to me now and I think I'll add one to the quiver soon as well. Can never have too many saws.

BTW I'm not losing any sleep over the matter, just a followup to my earlier post.

You aren't alone. I just looked at every saw in my inventory. 460, 510 and 5100 all have this mis-matched seem. Obviously they all share the same parts or the mold. It's a bit of an eyesore once you notice it, but I can think of worse parts to be ill-fitted. Such as maybe an intake boot? And if a huge number of these intake boots leaked and burned up cylinders? *Cough* I'm sorry that your dealer took that type of attitude with you. I'd have ordered another part for you but I'm 90% sure that the fit would be the same. I'd apolagize and of course offer to refund your $$$ on the saw if it was too big of an issue but I can't manufacture a new part to fit better.

Here is an idea, who's got a Rapid Prototyping set-up so that we could make this part out of polished aluminum with DOLMAR inlaid with a CNC mill or something. That'd be cool.

 

[B_Turner]

You aren't alone. I just looked at every saw in my inventory. 460, 510 and 5100 all have this mis-matched seem. Obviously they all share the same parts or the mold. It's a bit of an eyesore once you notice it, but I can think of worse parts to be ill-fitted. Such as maybe an intake boot? And if a huge number of these intake boots leaked and burned up cylinders? *Cough* I'm sorry that your dealer took that type of attitude with you. I'd have ordered another part for you but I'm 90% sure that the fit would be the same. I'd apolagize and of course offer to refund your $$$ on the saw if it was too big of an issue but I can't manufacture a new part to fit better.

Thanks for the reply.

I think the dealer was basically in the same situation as you, all the parts were the same and there was nothing he could do except take the saw back. So there was nothing he could say, although I appreciate you admitting it is a bit of an eyesore. Rather than to imply it's just me.

Again, I am not losing sleep over it, but in fact I spend many thousands of dollars a year on the best tools I can buy, and how well a tool fits together is very important to my sense of quality. I now have the saw and am certainly not going to take the time and trouble to return it, but had I really noticed the feature I might well have passed on the purchased originally and gone straight to the 361 which appears to be made to higher standards. (And I am sure I will work on the castings to improve the fit.)

It doesn't make good business sense to me for Dolmar to even allow such a silly and easily fixable problem to continue if they want to be taken as seriously as the big boys.

I also agree that there are certainly worse parts to be mismade, but ironically in cases like the carb mount not fitting, folks would raise cain and the problem would soon be fixed.

The 5100 is a pretty sweet saw overall, and if I owned Dolmar I would do whatever I could to take it all the way.

 

[wayne s]

Based on what folks were saying and based on how much I like my 7900, I got impulsive and grabbed a 5100s very recently as well.

Maybe I was expecting too much, based on my 7900.

First impressions;

Certain fit and finish details not up to my expectations. I know it is silly of me, but I like my saws to be purty at least at first. I've enclosed a couple of pics of the plastic around the handle where the pieces don't meet. Bothers me to look at it. Other complaints include the finish of the air cover is not smooth and telegraphs all the webings, etc underneath. Not very purty to behold, and a letdown compared to the 7900. Decals on the flat below grip already cracked.


Power seems less than I expected, but that also should improve with time.

The rear handle somehow seems a bit hard and rectangular compared to all my other saws. Not really a problem, especially with gloves, but surprised me a little.

The saw revs up very nicely, but takes longer than my other saws to slow down to idle. Not sure if I can tune that out, but it drives me crazy to wait until the motor slows down enough to set the brake or move to the next cut. It's idling close to spec and has great acceleration, so i am not sure what I can do about it.

Once at revs, anti vibe is good. Chain adjuster seems to work well.

Bottom line for me so far is that I feel I got a bit impulsive and for now I questioning my choice. But I had to know for myself, and I still hope to resolve the issues. I know most folks love their 5100s, so maybe it's just me. Or maybe since the serial number is very recent Dolmar is rushing to keep up with demand a little? I really want to love this saw.

I got the same saw for Christmas from my wife and I noticed the same problem with my saw as you mentioned. The fit bothers me but not enough to bring it back to the dealer. I guess when I have the time I'll take it off and see if I can grind away some on the material to get it closer. If not...as long as the saw does what it's supposed to do I'll be happy. My last saw looked like it went through the war and I didn't care because it ran every time I needed it to.

 

[DOLMARatOs]

Again, I am not losing sleep over it, but in fact I spend many thousands of dollars a year on the best tools I can buy, and how well a tool fits together is very important to my sense of quality. I now have the saw and am certainly not going to take the time and trouble to return it, but had I really noticed the feature I might well have passed on the purchased originally and gone straight to the 361 which is made to higher standards. (And I am sure I will work on the castings to improve the fit.)

It doesn't make good business sense to me for Dolmar to even allow such a silly and easily fixable problem to continue if they want to be taken as seriously as the big boys.

I also agree that there are certainly worse parts to be mismade, but ironically in cases like the carb mount not fitting, folks would raise cain and the problem would soon be fixed.

The 5100 is a pretty sweet saw overall, and if I owned Dolmar I would do whatever I could to take it all the way.

Some things need to be taken into account here though. The 5100, 510 and 460 are totally new saws for 2006. It takes time to work out the small issues such as the fitment of 1 part that is basically a trim piece. Look at the intake problems that Husky was plagued with for a few years. To say that Stihl is held to a higher quality because the saw they have had in production for years doesn't have any *visible* mis-matched pieces doesn't make much sense.

I'm sure our fellow AS members can count dozens of pieces of equipment from the "Big Boys" who have had some shortcomings as to fit and finish. I totally agree that it is an eyesore if you stare at it. If it was a functional part or a part that caused operator discomfort I would be on board with your line of thought.

Then again, If a Stihl or Husky looks absolutely perfect on the outside but the non-visible parts of the saw operate like a cement mixer full of pinball parts does that make them better? Who knows.

How long before Husky fixed their intake boot issues? I had a new saw last week fail due to this problem. Hmmmm Food for thought.

 

[B_Turner]

Some things need to be taken into account here though. The 5100, 510 and 460 are totally new saws for 2006. It takes time to work out the small issues such as the fitment of 1 part that is basically a trim piece. snipped Hmmmm Food for thought.

All good points. Still, if I owned Dolmar I would kick someone's behind for letting all the saws go out with such an easy to see and fix problem.

I don't want to blow this out of proportion. Is it a good little saw? Yes. Do I want to take the saw back, No. Do I wish the trim fit? Yes. Is it the biggest problem in my life or day? Nope.

 

[DOLMARatOs]

I hear ya now partner. Like the Rodney Carrington song: It's those little things, those iddy bitty things that pizz you off!

We'll see what the new year brings for fit and finish on this model.

 

[B_Turner]

I hear ya now partner. Like the Rodney Carrington song: It's those little things, those iddy bitty things that pizz you off!

We'll see what the new year brings for fit and finish on this model.

Yea, and I've am keeping an eye out for the 4 stroker. And the heated 7900, as I think I may need a third 7900 just in case they quit selling them here (EPA?).

 

[Andyshine77]

I'm a big fan of the 7900 (I have two of them), but I have yet to run a 5100 that works properly, I'm up to #6 now. They all have the same problems. Slow to return to idle, if you tip the saw on it's side it will rev up, than almost stall when you turn it upright (you can't tune this out). The Little hole on the bottom of the air filter lets saw dust into the air filter and carb.

As you can see I'm not a fan of the 5100, and yes I did check for air leaks.

Anyway that's my opinion Andy.

 

[DOLMARatOs]

I'm a big fan of the 7900 (I have two of them), but I have yet to run a 5100 that works properly, I'm up to #6 now. They all have the same problems. Slow to return to idle, if you tip the saw on it's side it will rev up, than almost stall when you turn it upright (you can't tune this out). The Little hole on the bottom of the air filter lets saw dust into the air filter and carb.

As you can see I'm not a fan of the 5100, and yes I did check for air leaks.

Anyway that's my opinion Andy.

WOW. 6 units with the same problem? Other than checking the carb screws to make sure they are torqued down when I set-up a new unit, I haven't had to do a thing other than fuel mix and bar-oil on the 5100S units that we've sold.

Then again, we've only sold a dozen or so of these saws. Have you tried a different dealer. Not to put anyone down here, did you get the same saw back 6 times?

 

[B_Turner]

I'm a big fan of the 7900 (I have two of them), but I have yet to run a 5100 that works properly, I'm up to #6 now. They all have the same problems. Slow to return to idle, if you tip the saw on it's side it will rev up, than almost stall when you turn it upright (you can't tune this out). The Little hole on the bottom of the air filter lets saw dust into the air filter and carb.

As you can see I'm not a fan of the 5100, and yes I did check for air leaks.

Anyway that's my opinion Andy.

I've not had my 5100 long enough to really decide what I think, but I too am having the issue of taking too long to get back to idle (to suit me). What I've started doing is throttling down a tiny bit early in the cut to have the wood scrub off some of the engine/chain speed.

So far the biggest thing I need to figure out is the best way to start the saw cold. Seems to be very flooded even after only 3 pulls with choke on. If I take the plug out (wet with fuel) and clear things out then it will eventually start (bunch of pulls) and once cleared out run okay. I may start trying one or two pulls with choke (even with no pop) and then take the choke off.

Suggestions?

With my other saws a pull or two (occasionally three) and it pops. Choke off and a pull or two starts it.

 

[Andyshine77]

B_Turner I've never had a hard time starting the 5100. I set it to choke pull until it kicks, then I turn the choke off and it starts in one or two pulls.

DOLMARatOs I've been to three dealers in my area, each one in a different state (KY,OH and IN). The dealer in KY no longer stocks the 5100 because of all the problems he and other dealers he has spoken with have had with the 5100.

My gut tells me the problem is with the funky carb Dolmar is using on the saw, I bet if they used a normal carb the saw would run much better.

Andy.

 

[zemmo]

I've not had my 5100 long enough to really decide what I think, but I too am having the issue of taking too long to get back to idle (to suit me). What I've started doing is throttling down a tiny bit early in the cut to have the wood scrub off some of the engine/chain speed.

So far the biggest thing I need to figure out is the best way to start the saw cold. Seems to be very flooded even after only 3 pulls with choke on. If I take the plug out (wet with fuel) and clear things out then it will eventually start (bunch of pulls) and once cleared out run okay. I may start trying one or two pulls with choke (even with no pop) and then take the choke off.

Suggestions?

With my other saws a pull or two (occasionally three) and it pops. Choke off and a pull or two starts it.

Mine's been an easy starter, too, but try setting the choke and then back it off (so the auto throttle will be set) to run, and start w/o choke. I've had a few saws that just didn't like to be choked unless it was pretty cold.