Bucking ? for the pro's

[lostone]

OK, I'm sure this is a simple answer for the pro's. But I have yet to grasp the smart answer to this one. The only tree's I cut on are already dropped by the forestry dept. here and its only for fire wood (they drop them if they have beetles or if the tree has something wrong with it) anyway, when the tree is laying down flat on the ground and you go to buck it up you have to worry about hitting the ground with your chain if you go all the way through, so my question is what do the pro's do in this situation? dig under the log to complete the cut making the log into section's that can be roled? I would image that this would not be a way that would be done by an arborist as there having to deal with someones yard. And in the situation that I am asking we arent having to deal with a yard, just the forest floor. I sure hope I have explained this situation better than the last question I asked, LOL.

 

[matthias]

I'm not a pro but I use a wedge and get down on my knees to make sure I don't hit the dirt.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Use a wedge.

 

[glens]

Wedge(s), cant hook (or peavey), and practice, practice, practice.

 

[Ryan Willock]

Well Brian has pretty much already said all there is to say. I usually feather my way through the cut untill I'm about half way through the bark then go on to the next cut.

 

[lostone]

Thanks for the info all, I guess it's go slow and watch what you are doing.

 

[rmihalek]

I was in the exact same situation as you; primarily bucking felled logs for firewood. You definitely need to use a plastic wedge for this job. Tap the wedge in when your bar is about 1/2 the way through the cut and then again when your bar is about 7/8ths through the cut. Sometimes this is enough to pop the cut open as there may only be a bit of wood and bark holding the pieces together. If it doesn't; at least opening the kerf a bit will give you a good view as to how much wood there is to cut.

Last year, I found an old peavey hook at an abandoned cabin and now use it all the time like RJS said; cut most of the way through, roll log, finish all cuts going up with the top of the bar cutting.

Also, bring an extra sharpened chain or two with you. If you hit something, forget about "field sharpening" the chain, take it off, clean the clutch housing out, install new chain, fill tanks, clean air filter and keep cutting. Sharpen all your chains at home on a dedicated grinder.

 

[glens]

While I agree almost entirely with that last post, I have to say it really depends on how much or badly you've "hit" something.  9 times out of 10, at least, it's just as quick (or quicker) to touch up the chain with a file as it is to exchange it.

Glen

 

[rumination]

I learned to file on a grinder. A few months ago I decided to learn hand filing. Now I get my chains sharper, and they last longer, too. Don't expect to get it overnight though. My first few hand filed chains were probably duller than when I started them.

 

[JimL]

When I cut something on the ground I just start sawing, get half way through, throw a wedge in the cut and keep going then with the saw tip down i push the bottom of the tip into that last little bit of wood a couple times to get it all.. I ususally dont cut the bark.

its all about doing it a bunch and getting good at it.....

 

[rmihalek]

Been filing by hand since 1980-81 Rocky and never got very good at it. Some people have the patience, some don't. I don't, you do.
I'll sharpen my chains at home and bring a few with me to the field. You do it your way.

 

[MasterBlaster]

When it gets dull, I file it.

Tha Cliff's Notes.

 

[Al Smith]

Chain filing

I agree with the pros.I buy about 2 dozen files a year.The first time I hit the dirt,I touch up the chain.Even if I don't,every second tank of fuel,sooner,if it is not cutting properly.It only takes a few minutes,perhaps time to chill out.

 

[rumination]

One trick I learned a few months ago: cut into the log, set your wedge, and then continue cutting almost all the way through, and stop. Bang the wedge all the way into the log, and as long as it isn't too long, it will rise up above the ground a tiny bit. Not much, but enough to increase your chances of not grounding the saw. That's probably old hat for most of you guys, but I was pretty happy when I figured it out.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by rumination
cut into the log, set your wedge, and then continue cutting almost all the way through, and stop. Bang the wedge all the way into the log, and as long as it isn't too long, it will rise up above the ground a tiny bit.

NUFF SAID!!!

 

[pecker]

Ok. I'm no pro, but what happens when the chain gets dirt? Why is it so important to prop the logs up so the saw doesn't get into the dirt?

Thanks.

 

[Crofter]

To be seen cutting with a Dirty chain is a dead giveaway that you are either a newbie or a troll!

 

[pecker]

I agree. But what does it do to the chain or saw?

 

[pecker]

When bucking a log with the saw (log lying on the ground), if you happen to get the chain into some dirt and you cut the bottom of the log, can dirt cause the chain to stop altogether?

Of course, I know the dirt is not good for the chain and can dull it, etc. But will dirt make the chain stop?

 

[rmihalek]

Well, you've got a few horsepower pulling the chain around the bar, so it's pretty unlikely that you could get enough dirt into the bar groove to actually stop the chain. The real problem is that dirt is very abrasive and, acting in concert with the bar oil, will just grind down all metal surfaces, plug up the groove and increase chain tension, creating a great deal of heat.

My earlier suggestion at swapping the chain for a new one and cleaning the saw is best for those times when you hit dirt/rocks. I agree with Glens and Rocky that if an object in the wood nicks a cutter or two, a quick touch-up with a file may be quicker than swapping chains.